Thread: Rivett 715

Great work...as usual Ewan,
Very important to get some therapy time amongst all that.
What you can do for the taps is when you make the screws, make them a couple of inches longer, cut the excess off, flute them and harden them and voila! You have a couple of taps that match the screws perfectly.
Rough machine the nuts and clean them up with the new taps.
I did this years ago for a cross slide screw on an old no name flat bed lathe I had but used stainless steel. They weren't hardened, but it still worked.

Phil

that is some project Ewan ................. you certainly dont do things by half

Looking good Ewan

Great to see a machine like this being reborn !

Regards
Ray

Finally got some paint on today. It is an off the shelf high build 2 pac epoxy primmer. Builds really well, low sag etc. Like all paint it seems to be a bug attractant....

Ew

Finally getting around to doing a bit more work to the cross slide.

Started by finish milling the dovetails, T slot etc.
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Scraped the bottom half of the slide where it will contact the bed, and the bottom of the slide itself.
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Ground the surfaces i could, including the flats of the dovetails. As the slide needs to make full contact i figured by grinding to thickness and then lightly grinding the dovetails and the section marked with the arrow above so that the step is identical. Hopefully that will keep the scraping to a minimum.

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I couldn't help but get all artistic....
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Finally the graduated ring for the compound slide. It is only 1/8" thick at the inside, .050" at the edge, .385" wide. OD is 4.125". It is set into the top of the cross slide by .025", and a CI disk attached to the bottom of the compound sits inside it.

I cut the disk from a bit of 5" bar, that took some time......

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Drilled, bored and faced....

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Than found an excuse to use the kingmann White....

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I plan to bore the center to size once it is fixed onto the slide. The original fixing screws were #3-56, tiny little things. I have some #5-40s, but they may be too big. I also need to graduate it, i'm thinking the RT on edge on the DP table set at the correct angle and use the quill to cut them.....or fly cut them on the mill......still thinking about that one. It also occurred to me (whilst in the shower of course) that stamping the numbers will be impossible without distorting the whole thing. I have a mate who is a really good engraver, i might call on a favor from him.

Cheers,
Ew

Certainly no foot dragging there Ew. Impressive.

I managed some radial graduating by connecting my rotary table to the lathe's spindle and scribing the lines with a sharp threading tool mounted sideways. Bit more here - https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/cr...9/#post1323751

Lean on your mate for a favour with the numbers.

BT

I ended up using the drill press, an idea that came from a book that Eskimo sent me. It worked really well, the hardest part was setting the DOC.

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I cut the first one but i was not happy with it for several reasons, it ended up too thin as it fluttered a bit where it was unsupported between the jaws when i machined the taper. Then the DP must have rotated a bit and the small divisions ended up slightly off.....

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So i set the 5" bar up in the lathe to machine a new one then part it off.

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I Remembered to wedge the DP spindle this time....

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It went really nicely, slow but fairly easy to do.

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Then i bored the slide to suit, now i need to star scraping....

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Cheers,
Ew

Originally Posted by Ueee

from a book that Eskimo sent me.







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Have you read all those books already...lol

how you guys become so precise certainly makes my work look rough...

great work Ewin

Nicely executed Ew. As usual.

I would not have thought of using the drill. I like the wedging of the pulley. Hard on a tin lidded Waldown but my little Tough has an abbreviated guard like yours. I will be keeping that trick in mind.

Are you going to tackle the punching of the numbers yourself ? When I made a base for my T and C vise I used the vice to hold a simple alignment guide for the number punches.

I trialled the intended position of the punching on some masking tape and made any necessary adjustments prior to belting the punch with a hammer. If you do go the DIY approach, check the position of the number on each stamp. American Young Brothers stamps are all over the place. Some cheap Chinese stamps have the numbers uniformly positioned.

BT

[QUOTE=Anorak Bob;1715776

Are you going to tackle the punching of the numbers yourself ? [/QUOTE]

I think Ueee said he was getting a mate who does engraving....

Now, if was me I'd be heading over to the CNC area of WWF to see if I could get a nearby member who could do it..
That would mean really really professional type engraving???

Originally Posted by eskimo

Have you read all those books already...lol

how you guys become so precise certainly makes my work look rough...

great work Ewin

Yep speed reader.....yeah right! (Eskimo sent me about 70 books worth.....)

It just so happens that the little universal dividing head in the pages before the air spindle had angle graduations, and using a drill press is how the author did it.

CNC engraving would be nice. But without some neat programing it would need a tilting 4th(?-rotary table) axis. My mates engraving is real neat. Actually he can probably engrave neater than most people can write. Pic of my letter opener handle that he did.

Cheers,
Ew

Originally Posted by Ueee

Yep speed reader.....yeah right! (Eskimo sent me about 70 books worth.....)

It just so happens that the little universal dividing head in the pages before the air spindle had angle graduations, and using a drill press is how the author did it.

CNC engraving would be nice. But without some neat programing it would need a tilting 4th(?-rotary table) axis. My mates engraving is real neat. Actually he can probably engrave neater than most people can write. Pic of my letter opener handle that he did.

Cheers,
Ew

I see what you mean...that is very neat

Here are the pics of the tap mentioned in Mikes thread. Now i either need to put the DH on the mill or maybe its a good excuse to make a pair of ER collet blocks Yeah cause i need to start another project......

Cheers,
Ew

I got my mate to engrave the ring today, pretty good i reckon, considering the numbers are about 2mm high.
I was asking him how he does it so neatly. Other than a steady hand, he does it in very purposeful single movements, never trying to go back over anything a 2nd time. But the key is in the marking out. He rolls plasticine on the job, then dusts it with talc. The talk sticks to the residue left by the plasticine. Thats his "layout stain". He has a little scribe made from a bamboo skewer that he can then finger gauge lines with for his letter height. Then he writes the letters themselves out before he traces them with a diamond burr.

Cheers,
Ew