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Thread: Roll pins vs taper pins
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11th February 2014, 09:04 PM #1Senior Member
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Roll pins vs taper pins
This is a clutch throw out fork from a mid 30s Hudson, from the factory its pinned onto a 5/8" cross shaft with 2 taper pins, the big end of the taper hole is about 5mm diameter.
The reassembly/fitting up process is going to be much easier if I just drill the holes parallel and use roll pins.
Any thoughts on using roll pins in this application?
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11th February 2014, 09:58 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Bob,
A taper pin is easier to remove plus I have seen roll pins crack opposite the slit.
Lastly I prefer to put stuff back together as close to original as possible.
The last one is just me though.
Phil
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11th February 2014, 11:04 PM #3Philomath in training
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Depends on the forces involved - a solid taper pin is going to be stronger than a hollow roll pin
Michael
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12th February 2014, 06:39 AM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi,
I agree with Steamwhisperer but I've used roll pins within roll pins to decrease the chance of them failing (this application was called for by the relevant technically authorities after single roll pins cracked in everyday use of the equipment); just locate the splits opposite to each other.
Ben.
ps it was originally a roll pin application
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12th February 2014, 07:11 AM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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12th February 2014, 09:02 AM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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I wouldn't use a roll pin with a shearing motion like that.
Definitely a job for a taper pin.
The trouble with roll pins in this situation is that they will compress and deform, eventually failing from the two way shearing effect of the shaft and cylinder.
The other alternative is to use a bolt and lock nut rather than a roll pin (if clearance allows).
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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12th February 2014, 09:31 AM #7Member
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I really dislike roll pins. If they are used in an application like that they could well brake as described above. I feel they are a cheap alternative used by many manufacturers now and also the hole doesn't need to be as accurate in size so it is a cheaper manufacture. I have replaced many roll pins in machines with bolts, steel dowels or tapered pins. Roll pins have there place, like holding a collar on the end of a shaft, but I don't like to see them where they transmit any force or torque.
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12th February 2014, 10:57 AM #8Senior Member
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Roll pins v taper pins
I would stay with the taper pins.
Roger
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12th February 2014, 11:01 AM #9Pink 10EE owner
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I would use the welder
Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
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12th February 2014, 11:43 AM #10Philomath in training
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12th February 2014, 01:02 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
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I have developed an immense dislike for roll pins. I am yet to remove a roll pin that behaves nicely when struck with a pin punch or drift. While I never replace with a new roll pin, I am wondering whether it is proper practice to only use them once! Conversely, nothing feels nicer than removing or installing a nice fitting taper pin. Such a nice positive fit. The leadscrew on my lathe is driven with a roll pin. I assume this is commonplace (at least amongst Chinese lathes) but over time it's becoming quite loose.
Anyway, I agree with what's been said about their use….
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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12th February 2014, 01:10 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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Is that supposed to act as a shear pin Simon ?
I don't think they're even any good at that.
On my Chinese lathe the leadscrew drive coupling had two cast steel tapered shear pins. These work well, but I replaced a broken one with a piece of GP hard bronze brazing rod and it shears nicely and does the same job.
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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12th February 2014, 01:30 PM #13
Something similar happened here last week, except it was a roll pin that dropped out of the hand wheel drive coupling, after pulling it apart and recovering the roll pin with a magnet from the bottom of the saddle.. we replaced the roll pin with a tapered brass pin. Josh reamed it with a 49:1 tapered reamer, and then suddenly realized we couldn't make a tapered pin without the lathe.. So I hand turned a tapered brass pin on the wood lathe with a file and hand held chisels. Came out spot on ... well that's my opinion.
Ray
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12th February 2014, 06:27 PM #14Senior Member
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12th February 2014, 07:04 PM #15
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