Thread: Rotary to Bevel Stainless Steel ??

Not a lot of info there like thickness, shape, size etc. There are deburing machines on the market (so don't have brand names or links to hand) that will do the job provided that your parts are not too small or intricately shaped.

The are motor powered and in effect a housing with a V channel to pass the part through, and two grinding wheels offset slightly. As the metal passess along the channel, burrs are ground off both faces without modifying the bulk of the edge or changing the size of the part.

I think the wheel height is adjustable relative to the work platform to cope with different thickness material, depth of cut, and wheel wear.

As a kid 45 years ago my parents had a similar style gizmo with two interleaved stacks of about 6 SS or hardened steel discs maybe 3/4 inch dia, and no work platform. Was very effective as a knife sharpener.

Late addition check this thread http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=60718 for a link to info about a machine that might be what you want.

Gidday

I definitely wouldn't be going near stainless with a free hand router...........

I'd recommend checking out Abrasives Australia talk to the guys they might be able to offer some solutions:

http://www.specialabrasives.com/roleief115.htm

My personal preference would be to set up a Jig/Fixture on the Aussie made Radius Master which can be checked out here:

http://www.specialabrasives.com/radiusmaster.htm
http://www.radiusmaster.com.au/index.html#video

Good luck with finding a solution!

Regards Lou

Thanks for the reply. I am not looking for a method to deburr as I already use a simply sander. The material is 304 stainless steel 22guage(thin) with #8 mirror polish.

I am talking about beveling the polished surface face edge. The method would need to be gentle as not to scratch the surface. These are pre-polished sheets. Once product is cut it is deburred, 3M tape applied and bagged for shipping. Heres an example of one of my products, http://www.design2fast.com/Satisfact...nlesssteel.jpg

You will notice the material is flat with slightly rounded corners. I have had multiple dealerships interested but due to the material being so thin the edges could cut someone if their hand slipped. The ideal finish, lets say the material is glued to a flat table, a persons hand would need to transition from the table to the material without snagging. Smooth! I do understand it might make the edges deeper on the backside but the tape thickness makes up for the space. I am thinking maybe some sort of press?

Thanks for the help!

If you want to bevel edge material, it would have to be ground and polished. The big issue would be heat control to prevent warping.

You would need to start with a 120 belt to remove the bulk material, then work up through 240, 320, and 600 grits before polishing. If your parts are under about 4 inches wide, I would probably start at #4 finish material, cut to shape, bevel edges then polish all over, as the repolish from bevelling two edges would extend at least 2 inches from the edge anyway.

Stainless is way to hard to bevel by pressing and if the blank was laser cut, the edge would be harder still. You might be able to press the part directly from sheet with a minor draw in the tooling but the edge would be convex and moderately abrupt, and a tool set might cost $6,000. Four parts (left, right, front, rear) means 4 sets of tools, so it would be a very pricey excercise. You would find that you get stretch marks wher the draw occurs, so some refinishing would be required.

You will notice the material is flat with slightly rounded corners. I have had multiple dealerships interested but due to the material being so thin the edges could cut someone if their hand slipped. The ideal finish, lets say the material is glued to a flat table, a persons hand would need to transition from the table to the material without snagging. Smooth! I do understand it might make the edges deeper on the backside but the tape thickness makes up for the space. I am thinking maybe some sort of press?

I take it the edges have been cut or guillotined? Then polished or finished off. Why not buff the edges with a fine pre polishing buff then run the polishing buff down the edges. This will remove any sharpness and leave a highly polished edge ie #8 finish.