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  1. #136
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    Well I worked out why the draw bar in my mill is so long. While boring, when the cut passes over the mounting hole the backlash in the gears sounds nasty, so by running your fingers on the draw bar it keeps it loaded and doesn't sound so bad lol.
    I ended up boring down 19mm, that still leave 20mm.
    Of course halfway through the last cut out I thought "I wonder if there is enough room left for the holes for the detent/spring/etc." oh well its a little late now.

    I think it took about 30 minutes a cut out. 220rpm, about 0.2mm feed, 0.5mm deep cut. The dro really helps. auto stop on the powerfeed would have been better though, I'll have to get back on that but its the first time I have really used powerfeed cut after cut. still it kept ne out of trouble lol

    Stuart

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  3. #137
    Dave J Guest

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    What a boring job, LOL
    Looking good, there should still be enough room for the camlocks and detent plungers.
    The power feed micro switches are not real accurate for coming to a stop repeatedly. There are other brands of power feeds that claim to stop repeatably within a certain distance, but I can't think of the amount at the moment.
    Did you go deep enough towards the centre? It doesn't look like the ring spanner on the bolt head will fit.

    Dave

  4. #138
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    I need the practice.
    The feed stop wouldn't have to be to good. I was stopping the cut about 0.2mm early then taking a vertical finishing cut(by hand on the knee, I was going to use powerfeed on the quill but it was getting late lol)
    Is it deep enough? "Of course it is" he says as he gets his keys and heads out to the shed to check lol
    Yeah, ring spanner fits fine. Open ender might have problems if you couldn't lift it up and off, but that's part of the reason I went that deep.

    Stuart

  5. #139
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    Does anyone have a full drawing of a D1-4 spindle nose?
    I have the radius(41.28mm) and hole sizes(16.669mm) for the pins. I cant find a drawing that shows the dimensions between the pin holes and cam holes.

    On a side note, is there any reason a ER32 chuck held in a MT5-MT3 sleeve in the lathe spindle would be more accurate than one made to fit on the camloc taper?(other than my machining of course.

    Stuart

  6. #140
    Dave J Guest

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    I have the dimensions on my other computer, as soon as I can get on it I will email them.

    I have been thinking over the last few days about the ER collet chuck as well. When I cut the steel I cut an extra piece for it, but haven't decided whether to mount it direct or on a back plate mount it.
    If it was back plate mount you have a chance of moving it over if the nut or collet is out slightly. I know when I use the MT3 collet chuck, I rotate it and the MT3-5 until I get the least runout.

    Dave

  7. #141
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    Thanks Dave
    I make it 24 degrees between the hole centers.(give or take)
    I was going to drill the pin holes next but I've changed my mind. I have a milling cutter that will cut the 16.67mm hole(there is a tolerance of +0.002" which is a little strange as the pin is 15.9mm). I think the hole for the camlocs needs a better finish that the pin holes and as I have to bored them, I will do them first so I don't have an interpreted cut.

    I'll have more of a think about the ER chuck. The plan was to buy ER32 kit with a 30 taper chuck to suit the mill and make the chuck for the lathe.

  8. #142
    Dave J Guest

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    I sent the email, but I have just realised that those diagrams are for his own design of cam locks, so I have sent him an email for the others. As soon as I get them I will send them through to you, all he asks is that they are for personal use.

    Dave

  9. #143
    Dave J Guest

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    I agree the camlock holes need a better finish.
    The MT3 /ER32 collet chuck is only $15.50
    ER32 MT3 COLLET CHUCK #A75

    Dave

  10. #144
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    I've got them Dave thanks.
    But you're right, unless my math's is way out(which is course possible) they are different.
    Better not have his drawings, I might sell a few, who knows? I'll just have to be more careful with my measuring. The worst that could happen is that standard camlocs wont work, this wouldn't really worry me, what I would like to be able to do is make the camlocs fit my chucks as they are off my lathe without having to adjust the pins. Even if this means I don't have standard pins.

    Stuart

  11. #145
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    Make the 33degrees, Better check it a few more times lol
    If anyone wants to check my math's. The edges of the holes are 9.7mm offset. One hole being 16.67mm, the other being 19mm.
    I'm off to check these numbers again.

    At that price for a chuck it would be worth having one laying around even if I made a camloc one. A good box filler if I ever get around to ordering something from him.

    Stuart

  12. #146
    Dave J Guest

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    Maybe a degree wheel on the back of the lathe would help ?
    I think I have some old tube bender degree wheels here somewhere.

    Dave

  13. #147
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Cairns, Q
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    351

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Does anyone have a full drawing of a D1-4 spindle nose?
    I have the radius(41.28mm) and hole sizes(16.669mm) for the pins. I cant find a drawing that shows the dimensions between the pin holes and cam holes.
    Stuart
    Stuart,

    If you have not already got a drawing of the D type spindle nose, there is one here:

    Dimensions of American Lathe Chuck Spindle Noses, Includes Camlock, A1-1 Types, and Long Taper with Key, LO LOO, L1, L1 L3 and L4

    Frank

  14. #148
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    Well now I have 14.91degs
    So here is my attempt to draw it.
    The green rectangle is the camloc 19mm Dia, I measured 9.7mm from the side of the camlock to the edge of the hole. The hole for the camloc is 19.16mm. subtract 0.16mm from 9.7mm gives 9.54mm the distance from the edge of one hole to the edge of the other.
    subtract half of the small hole 8.375mm from 9.54 and add half of the big hole 9.58mm gives 10.745mm center to center.
    The radius of the pin hole it 41.28mm
    circumference=259.37mm
    259.37mm/10.745mm= 24.138mm
    360/24.138= 14.91deg

    Anyone agree with this?

    Stuart

  15. #149
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    Dave,
    A degree wheel could work. But I'm not exactly sure how.

    Thanks Franco, but its missing the angle I am trying to work out

    Stuart

  16. #150
    Dave J Guest

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    The drawing I sent you has 14 degrees + or - .05 degrees.

    Dave

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