Thread: Rotary Table questons

Originally Posted by Stustoys

I assume Suttons is making their drills in China now? I've included a picture of my new set of drills.

Hi Stuart,

They still do their manufacturing in Melbourne as far as I know, my son was doing some work at the Thomastown factory just last year. Thomastown | Sutton Tools

Didn't Christo wrap some building in Melbourne years ago?...

Regards
Ray

Bob,
I should have mentioned that picture was just for show. I'd pulled it out without taking a picture so just put it back, when clamped I used cardboard under each jaw. I also have a rag stuffed in the chuck which you can see the the picture I forgot to post. Good point about the 4 jaw being easier to clean, will try not to make that misstake again.

"Now you are going to ask who the F... is Christo Vladimirov Javacheff" am not, with Rays hint and google I get were you are going.

Ray,
I was worried Sutton have gone to China because I have never seen a set of Sutton drills with the lengths of the drills being so "untidy"

Stuart

Just put a rag under your foil for a bit of extra security and you will be fine. I have turned a fare bit of cast myself and have never needed to remove the saddle.
I read on some forums where guys refuse to use it and talk about it like it evil. It makes me wonder if they have ever turned a piece of steel with rust on it which is probably about the same if not worse. As long as you take precautions to cover things up it's fine and no coolant is needed.

Dave
PS
Don't drink to much or you won't feel like working tomorrow either. LOL

Boys,
How many people think to cover the ways when using a bit of wet and dry paper??

I do, but thats the sort of things I was talking about earlier with people against cast. I also find the way covers I made up help a lot.



I still need to get my aluminium ones made up so I can send these ones to Stuart as promised.

Dave

You don't around Dave. Neat job. I can see why the saddle remains insitu. The Hercus saddle is small.

So its really your fault Dave
I do try to put a plank of wood on the ways when I am sanding.

Bob, thanks
These are a large saddle to remove. They say they are best taken out lead screws and all which makes it a big job. I have never had it off, but wouldn't mind having a look under it. Maybe one day I will when I am looking for a place for the one shot oiler to go, it's on the 10 year plan and the lathe will probably be worn out and won't need it then.

Stuart,
When you mentioned cast this morning, I thought I should tell him to wait and I will send the covers down and that will make me make the others. Then tonight you post up you have already started.
I left them off after having the gap out for a job, After a week or two of jobs I was amazed at how much cleaning there was without them on, even the lead screw was full of crap. After I cleaned it all up, they went strait back on.
If you have never had them you wouldn't miss them, but after having them you wouldn't be without them.
Will get the aluminium ones done in the next few weeks and send you these ones.

Dave

Originally Posted by Dave J

Stuart,
When you mentioned cast this morning, I thought I should tell him to wait and I will send the covers down and that will make me make the others.

I can stop
Wont really be that much lathe work(in hindsight I should have set the compound first.)
The MT5-MT3 adaptor I have is about 80mm long so at best I could only get it halfway in. That would be a bit of overhang. Not sure its worth it.

Stuart

I would take it out and set the compound first, that way your not messing with it half way through the job.
I just looked up the tapers and it won't fit it. The MT5 wont even fit for my mill adapter with the 30 taper because the MT5 is 1.475 on the small end and the NT30 is 1.25 at the opening. Maybe forget about it or go for a MT3?
The only reason I am thinking of it was so the mount didn't need taking off to use a collet chuck or something else. That way it could stay on unless the table itself was needed, which would not be often because you could use the face plate instead.

Dave

I've Only machined the back face and the sides. I have to cut 15mm off and turn it around now anyway. I just meant that if I have set the compound first I wouldnt have had to take the chuck off after covering it in cast dust. As it is I'm thinking about making two at the same time so if I have a taper in the center I think it would be best to set the compound to the camloc taper, machine that. remove chuck, set the compound to the MT taper, replace chuck and machine taper on both adaptors then remove chuck and reset to the cumloc taper and machine the second one.
I made a misstake measuring the over hang of the tapers. If I every get back to the shed I'll measure them up again, the MT5 might be doable.

Anyone with a ER32-MT3 collet chuck that can tell me the outside size please?

Stuart

40mm dia (39.84mm to be exact)

Dave

Ok The adaptor is 90mm long. 11mm at the small end is undersize(I assume to be sure you don't damage the machined surfaces when you have knocking it out. So I could fit it but the MT5-MT3 sleeve would hang out of the adaptor by 40mm. Is that to much? I wouldn't think you would ever have a work piece to large in an ER32.

Thanks Dave The ER32 would fit with having to remove the chuck. I have no idea noe why I wanted to know that.

Stuart

I just measured the MT3 collet chuck in the rotary table, and from the table to the bottom of the nut is 51mm, so it will stick out more than the adapter and have plenty of room.

Dave