Thread: Rotary Table questons

I have been using carbide but was thinking of switching to HSS once the roughing is done for the tapers. Do you think this would give a better finish?

Stuart

Yes I definitely find that. Take the "crust" off with carbide, then switch to a sharp HSS tool to finish. Indeed the last backplate I did the carbide was cutting so poorly it was actually affecting the accuracy of the register.

I think Peter had a good eye to raise this point as I hadn't taken much notice of the photo and it was only when I went back and looked at it that I felt he had a good point. As you said, maybe the photo makes it look worse than it is, but you should be able to get a much better finish than it appears there.

Pete

I usually use HSS, but have come across some face/back plates that have just knocked the edge off the HSS, so I switch to carbide on those one's.
I find after machining the register, it is better to use a bit of emery for final finishing to really smooth it out. Do this before cutting the face, other wise it will muck the fitting up.

I just measured the steel I have and it is 140mm round so it will still do.
What cam locks are you going to use or make? The guy I gave links to earlier had external hex head to start out with, but now seems to be supplying the standard lathe type internal square drive.

Dave

Pete,
I missed your first post on HSS, I'll give it a go.

Feeds and speeds anyone?

Dave,
I was thinking about making my own copies of the square drive but I'll measure it up first. It might be easier to use a socket on a table or I might need to make an extra long square drive anyway.

I've tightened up the gib on the compound and that has improved the finish(one of the reasons I want to learn scrapping)

Stuart

I just thought of something looking at those pictures. I don't need to make one because you will have a spare one.

Seriously though, 2 could come in handy so you can have one to bolt to the mill table or the shaper on it's own, while the other stays on the rotary table permanently.

Dave

Not sure if you have had a cam lock out, but here is a picture of one of mine I took for a guy last year.



Dave.

One thing I like about cast and no coolant, cleaning up with the vacuum (well at least to start with)

Whats your guess on what they are made out of Dave? I think they might be case hardened.

Would be a lot easier to make one of these adaptors once you had one lol

I need to make up some T nuts for the rotary table.

I assume the PCD on the DRO is damn good? I think I'll use that to drill the three holes for the T slot mounting. Of course I'll have to read the instructions again.

Stuart
What was the time stamp on my pm Dave?

They look like they are cast, I would have to have another look to be certain. I know case hardened because I had to move the indent over as you can see in the photo and the drill didn't like it. I have some air hardening steel here I was thinking of using for them.
The DRO is brilliant for holes in a circle. I used for the sub plate to for the rotary table and it has holes for the 160mm 3 jaw, 200mm 4 jaw and 250mm 4 jaw as well as the holes to line up for the T slot and none of them ran into any others and are all exact. Just watch you don't get any drill wonder when starting or they will be off.

As for the time stamp, do you mean the time you sent the PM? If so it was 8:24PM

Dave

I haven't measured them yet. I guess it would be to much to ask that they will be a bms size as they look ground. BMS might do for the number of times they will get used. I'm thinking about leaving the detents out or moving them to the outside, to remove that groove from the bearing surface(although I guess if it works on the lathe spindle, why change it?)

The MT5 taper in my spindle is undercut where the camloc holes mean the MT5, I guess they do that so they don't have to try and finish a taper with interrupted cuts?

I hadn't seen yor message before I sent mine PM. Although 150mm might be better. I'll see how these ones come up.

Stuart

I just pulled one out and it's 18.90mm diameter, so with the movement they have I would say the hole is 19mm. I also took a file to the end an it is steel, either deep case hardened or fully hardened.
BMS might be OK but even on these hardened ones I notice they get wear and small burrs, remember they are under a lot of pressure when done up.
Having the detent on the other end of the cam lock (out side) could work because they will be longer in your adapter, but I am not sure you will have enough material out there to play with which will make the wall thin.
The hole for the detent should be pretty easy, it is at 90 degrees to the camlock, so It's only a matter of setting it up on the rotary table at 90 deg and measuring X amount in front the edge to suit.

I think most MT 5 tapers are set up this way. There was a guy in the US on one of the forums complaining to us all that his MT5 was to short and only about 3/4 inch long. He then told us he had contacted Grizzly and they where sending out a new spindle as it was faulty.
When he was told to look further inside he realised his mistake and range Grizzly to cancel the replacement. (you don't see any Aus stores doing that with out absolute proof something is wrong)

I see what you mean about the PM

Dave

I have some case hardening powder I could try it out and have a hard cam and a soft bearing surface and socket.
Maybe I should just copy the detents and be done with it, maybe i'll find a place I can buy them.

Yeah I think if you tried to grind them the full length the holes whould give you problems. This might give my MT5 a problem that it is only supported at the front.(more measuring) I guess I machine the MT5 and if if it doesnt work I can alway bore it out.
I want a grizzly!!! (although the postage could be a little much)

interested?

Stuart

Any reason you are staying with the MT5? I think I will go with a strait bored hole around 45mm. This way it will give around 2.5mm either side of a MT3 ER32 collet chuck and when the collet chuck is in the table with the adapter on it there will be 5mm between the adapter and the back of the collet nut, which is plenty of room to use it.
Hope that makes sence.

Dave

Thats exactly why I asked you the size of the ER32 chuck lol I knew there had to be a reason, I just forgot lol

Stuart

LOL, the collet nut is 22mm thick so that means the face of the collet will be 38mm away from the D1-4 face. If you where doing a job that needed more room for the quill or something the adapter could just be taken off.

Here is a drawing I just did


Dave