Thread: Rotary Tables

I had a vertex one (it was branded something else, but ...) and it was alright. Not up to the fit and finish of something like a Yuasa but it did the job.

Fabricating a base will work but there are some things to remember about fabricate vs. casting.

• Welding is an edge process. That is, it joins edges so if you have thick material you won't necessarily have the strength and rigidity that you would get if the assembly was cast
• Cast iron is self lubricating and will deaden vibration to a degree. Steel will require grease or oil points and can ring (not so important for an R/T)
• Welding stresses assemblies by putting in heat locally. Parts are also stressed by the casting process but if done properly the stress is more uniformly distributed (less likely to cause problems). The flakes in grey iron also act as crack barriers.
• Both welded and cast parts can move when machined.

For a RT base you could probably chance it but it's going to be a lot of mucking around, especially adding in all the bosses etc to support bearings.


Try the local scrap and second hand places for a worm drive reduction gearbox. You might get one with a suitable ratio.


Michael

This guy made one with a screwed-together base. INDEX TABLE

Originally Posted by simonl

Hi all,

Also, does anyone have a vertex rotary table? Are they well made? At $369 for a 150mm it's difficult to justify building one other than for the sake of a nice project.

Cheers,

Simon

Simon, I have a Vertex 6" and I reckon it is OK. Purchased it from Standaco for less than the figure you quoted, but it may have gone up.

I haven't used another brand of RT so I don't have a comparison, but the Vertex does everything I want.

I have looked at some the Indian RTs offered from time to time and I have never been tempted to buy one of those.

Simon,

I have both a Vertex and a Hercus 6 inch .

The Vertex is handy because it can be used vertically but the Hercus is lower, an important advantage for an owner of small mills.

The Hercus started off as just the base casting, kindly sent to me from F W Hercus a few years ago. I had a scaled up catalogue photo for a guide and apart from the worm, wormwheel and ball handle, I made the rest. The 80:1 gears were obtained from HPC Gears in Chesterfield. www.hpcgears.com.

A simplified base could be made from a block of cast iron or fabricated as suggested by Michael. I have a fondness for cast iron. 80:1 requires some trickery when it comes to graduating the feed dial. The design allows the fitting of the division plates from the Hercus dividing head as does the Vertex. I have not used the plates on the Hercus but I have a number of times on the Vertex.

The Vertex would be a more economical option in my opinion.

A few snap shots.

BT

Hi Simon,
For your size mill I see this question come up a lot on forums over the years and the recommendation is always buy an 8 inch table, I also think it is the way to go.
It will depend on what your doing with it, but try cutting a circle of paper out 6 inch round and cutting out the shape of clamps, then try to mount what ever your thinking of on the table. You will soon realise you have run out of room for clamping.

I originally bought a 12 inch table but returned it because of the weight (now I have a crane ) and bought a 10 inch. I am going to put a sub plate on it because for some jobs I run out of room for clamping. A 10 inch would be pushing it for your mill but an 8 would be fine.

Dave

If you want to spend the money you should get a Mecca Rotary Table.. I have one and can easily say they are among the best in the world, But unfortunantly so is the price tag...Around $3000.00 for an 8" mine is a 12" and I was lucky enough to score it secondhand or $500

Good score Matthew,

I realised I never said anything about the quality of the Vertex. I am not sure if they have changed because I bought mine years ago, but I am happy with mine and think it is well made (maybe I got lucky) but the 12 inch I returned was the same quality as well. When I brought it home I cleaned it up and ran the dial indicator over it and was within specs compared to the tolerance sheet that came with it.

The only thing I don't like about it (which is only cosmetically) is the slots for bolting it down as they are a bit rough, but they still work fine.
I do find the table to be soft and marks easy, if they come hardened they would be better.
I bought the tail stock and dividing plates with mine and the only complaint is the tail stock looks cheaply finished, though it's accurate.

Dave

" and the only complaint is the tail stock looks cheaply finished, though it's accurate."

The 6" tailstock is an cumbersome looking thing, more like a farm implement than a precision tool. I agree with you Dave about the quality of the head casting finish (or lack of it). Vertex could have refined the design but I guess most people are happy with the chunky, robust appearance and the price, so why would they.

BT

Thanks for your replies guys!

Michael, The points you raise about welding are very interesting and make a lot of sense now that you put it that way. I guess it would have to be a pretty elaborate design to have the righty of a cast iron base.

Bryan, that screw together one I have seen. It seems pretty good. I would like to hear what people think about the rigidity of a bolt or screw together base. At this stage I still don't think I would be able to match the quality of even an average table (such as vertex). Generally I only like to make stuff if I know I can make it as good or better than a bought one unless it's purely for a cost benefit with a slightly reduced quality. But, I think the cost/quality ratio would be against my philosophy, especially at the skill level i'm currently at.

Hi big shed, I still love your shed! I think that the vertex would be amply good enough for me and what I wish to do. I don't see any point in purchasing equipment that far exceeds my current or even future skill level. The good wife is very understanding of most of my purchases but I dare not push the limits too far! The price I quoted was incorrect, it's actually about $320 incl. about the same as Standaco's.

Dave, I hate it when you put forward a good argument to spend more money than I can't afford/justify! It just does my head in. I figured the 6 inch would do most things I need, I just can't justify the extra cash for an extra 2 inches!

Matthew, at $3000 it's more expensive than the machines I will be using it on! That would be like running a pair of $20,000 speakers off a $500 stereo! Must be an awesome table, does it make coffee as well?!

I too have a Vertex 6" rotary table.(Little used)
Brought from Hare and Forbes.
I have no real complaints other than the fact the new 6" models have only 3 tee slots.
This is not very compatable with clamping a toolmakers vice to the table.
Mark

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

" and the only complaint is the tail stock looks cheaply finished, though it's accurate."

The 6" tailstock is an cumbersome looking thing, more like a farm implement than a precision tool. I agree with you Dave about the quality of the head casting finish (or lack of it). Vertex could have refined the design but I guess most people are happy with the chunky, robust appearance and the price, so why would they.

BT

Hi Bob,
Farm implement, thinking about it that is a good description of it. LOL
I am not sure why they went away from the old design that pivoted in the middle.

Dave

Simon,
If your not in a hurry keep your eye out on ebay etc and even put a wanted add in the forum for a 8 inch one. There is not much that can be wrong with a second hand one other than marks in the table top which can be easy seen in a photo. You should be able to pick one up for the same money as a new 6 inch.

If you do go with a 6 inch, you could make up a sub plate out of 12-16mm thick plate and have a heap of tapped holes in it instead of T slots. The only thing you have to watch is going to big, and not being able to read the vernier or fit dividing plates. Are you looking to get dividing plates with it?

For the tail stock, I have been thinking about using my lathe one instead. It would be better because you can fit standard MT tooling in it. You would only need to make up a base for it to sit at the right height on your mill with a couple of slots to bolt it down.

When I get around to it I am going to buy one of those small 110mm tilting tilting rotary tables for quick work, as I think it would be handy to have instead of getting the big one out. They usually go on special at sale time for around the price of the 6 inch Vertex. The stupid thing about them is they are 94-1 instead of 90-1 like the rotary tables are, so using the same dividing plates on it is out unless you want a headache working it all out. LOL
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/R003

Dave
PS
How about telling your wife you want the one below, leave it for a few weeks then say you have changed your mind to a 8 inch standard one, it will then sound cheap to her. LOL
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/R026

They are only fairly new out from H&F's, if they where around when I bought all my gear from them I probably would have bought one of them instead.

It's not hard to make one. As posted before: Mini Lathe Workshop is a good guide.

If you can't get a worm and worm gear, then use any spur gear that will fit and use a vee screw thread that matches the circular pitch. True, it will be only point contact 'but' so what.

Or save your bikkies and buy when you can. I bought a commercial quality 10" and the quality is fine.

CDCO tools has a 6" for $US178.

Cheers,

Originally Posted by Dave J

Simon,
If your not in a hurry keep your eye out on ebay etc and even put a wanted add in the forum for a 8 inch one. There is not much that can be wrong with a second hand one other than marks in the table top which can be easy seen in a photo. You should be able to pick one up for the same money as a new 6 inch.

If you do go with a 6 inch, you could make up a sub plate out of 12-16mm thick plate and have a heap of tapped holes in it instead of T slots. The only thing you have to watch is going to big, and not being able to read the vernier or fit dividing plates. Are you looking to get dividing plates with it?

For the tail stock, I have been thinking about using my lathe one instead. It would be better because you can fit standard MT tooling in it. You would only need to make up a base for it to sit at the right height on your mill with a couple of slots to bolt it down.

When I get around to it I am going to buy one of those small 110mm tilting tilting rotary tables for quick work, as I think it would be handy to have instead of getting the big one out. They usually go on special at sale time for around the price of the 6 inch Vertex. The stupid thing about them is they are 94-1 instead of 90-1 like the rotary tables are, so using the same dividing plates on it is out unless you want a headache working it all out. LOL
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/R003

Dave
PS
How about telling your wife you want the one below, leave it for a few weeks then say you have changed your mind to a 8 inch standard one, it will then sound cheap to her. LOL
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/R026

They are only fairly new out from H&F's, if they where around when I bought all my gear from them I probably would have bought one of them instead.

Hi Dave,

Theres a few good ideas there. As for indexing plates, I love the idea of connecting a stepper motor to it. Would probably design my own PICAXE driven system that would be stand alone, no need for a PC. A simple program that allows you to enter the number of increments per rotation or input the amount of increment. Also have a variable jog function. In theory, if done properly it would replace all dividing plates. I have made a few PICAXE circuits and written a few programs a number of years ago and had a lot of fun. Looking for an excuse to do some more!

I have a really good book on picaxe programming, and whenever I get it out to read, my wife nearly crawls into the fetal position. NO! not another picaxe project!

Cheers,

Simon