Thread: Rust Inhibitor Test

Hi,
Great idea, I look forward to your results

Stuart

I wonder if a bit of hydrochloric acid in the water would accelerate the rusting?.

Originally Posted by Graziano

I wonder if a bit of hydrochloric acid in the water would accelerate the rusting?.

Wouldn't a bit of heat to cause some humidity be a fairer test?

Have you been watching too much myth busters??

Originally Posted by Ueee

Wouldn't a bit of heat to cause some humidity be a fairer test?

Have you been watching too much myth busters??

Fair??, who said anything about fair , I'm just impatient and wanted to turn the controls up to 11 to speed things up a bit. Two things that really rust steel are sulphuric vapours and hydrochloric vapours, if they are spilled in a wood cupboard you may as well throw it away. Hmmm I should try a cup with acid and water in it inside a sealed container with the steel not directly in contact with the cloth and see how long it takes to rust.

Originally Posted by Graziano

Fair??, who said anything about fair , I'm just impatient and wanted to turn the controls up to 11 to speed things up a bit. Two things that really rust steel are sulphuric vapours and hydrochloric vapours, if they are spilled in a wood cupboard you may as well throw it away. Hmmm I should try a cup with acid and water in it inside a sealed container with the steel not directly in contact with the cloth and see how long it takes to rust.

Ok so maybe i should have used the words "real world test"

As for how long it takes to rust......use a stopwatch, you wont have time to get bored!

Originally Posted by Ueee

Have you been watching too much myth busters??

LOL.. no, maybe not enough of it

I've got the container sitting out in the back yard in full sun, that is as warm as I can get them, short of taking them to bed with me at night.

Graziano thanks for the suggestion but the experiment is to simulate realistic conditons in a workshop. I'm not too sure that many workshops have much hydrochorlic acid fumes in them... unless they are on Venus perhaps.

Originally Posted by Blu_Rock

I've got the container sitting out in the back yard in full sun, that is as warm as I can get them, short of taking them to bed with me at night.

You must be in a different Canberra to me......no sun here, only cold wind and nasty looking clouds.

I was thinking more like a heated seedling tray, it always gets real humid in mine....

Hi Blurock,

Is someone running a book on this? I'll give even money on Lanox to win, 10 to 1 on WD40, any takers?

Regards
Ray

Originally Posted by Blu_Rock

LOL.. no, maybe not enough of it

I've got the container sitting out in the back yard in full sun, that is as warm as I can get them, short of taking them to bed with me at night.

Graziano thanks for the suggestion but the experiment is to simulate realistic conditons in a workshop. I'm not too sure that many workshops have much hydrochorlic acid fumes in them... unless they are on Venus perhaps.

Higher temps are good but may soften or evaporate the coatings, I think the rule of thumb is that every ten degree C rise doubles the rate of chemical reaction (Arrhenius's Law??). Isn't a salt water spray the industry standard test for metal coatings.

Surprisingly one of the early formulations of Rocol had sulphuric acid in it (worked much better than the modern version) as many a machinist found to their dismay after not cleaning all of it off their lathe the day beforehand and finding their lathe orange with rust in the morning.

Originally Posted by RayG

Is someone running a book on this? I'll give even money on Lanox to win, 10 to 1 on WD40, any takers?

I'm thinking similar to you Ray, either of the Lanolin-based sprays will perform best and WD40 or Inox worst.

Graziano and Ueee, a temperature controlled environment would be better but I've got nothing fancy like a seedling tray.

P.S. it's looking like winter is here early in Canberra

I heard that ADI Bendigo did a test like that with all sorts of commonly available products aropund 10 years ago and found CRC Longlife (or a word like it) came out best....
Could you add that to your test sample, please?
Joe

i think the wd40 will ofter poor protection. its said to be a gun smiths best friend.

Originally Posted by RayG

Hi Blurock,

Is someone running a book on this? I'll give even money on Lanox to win, 10 to 1 on WD40, any takers?

Regards
Ray

I have seen it used on a boat that is in salt water 100% of the time.... Seems to slow down the rust quite well...

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However stopping rust is one only thing to look out for, another is removing said anti-rust from machines/tools when you need it.... Things like Lanox or Inox leave behind a hard to shift scum that discolours machines... Use it on something like a dial indicator could very well stuff it...

Originally Posted by .RC.

I have seen it used on a boat that is in salt water 100% of the time.... Seems to slow down the rust quite well...

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However stopping rust is one only thing to look out for, another is removing said anti-rust from machines/tools when you need it.... Things like Lanox or Inox leave behind a hard to shift scum that discolours machines... Use it on something like a dial indicator could very well stuff it...

hi rc what do you mean used on a boat. do you mean on fittings or a steel hull? you know the best product for a marine environment if you would like to prevent rust on fittings and threads ect or even keep moisture out of electrical equipment is denso tape. paint can be good ive heard but anoying,
aaron