Thread: more rust removal

I'd like to try this stuff out on the bed of my lathe. It was lighty rusted which came off easily, but a rust stain remains.

Where is this Diggers product available?

Ken

Originally Posted by neksmerj

I'd like to try this stuff out on the bed of my lathe. It was lighty rusted which came off easily, but a rust stain remains.

Where is this Diggers product available?

Ken

Ken

Most hardware stores stock Diggers brand products like metho and white spirits . Just ask and they should order some for you

I would not use it on a lathe bed until I was familiar with its use and effects .

Hi Ken,
It says on the container not for metal surfaces. (Diggers product)

Phil

Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer

Hi Ken,
It says on the container not for metal surfaces. (Diggers product)

Phil

Where else would you really want to use rust remover.

Eh, what good is a rust remover if you can't use it on steel.

Can't say I've seen a piece of rusty wood! Maybe I should get out more.

Ken

Originally Posted by neksmerj

Eh, what good is a rust remover if you can't use it on steel.

Can't say I've seen a piece of rusty wood! Maybe I should get out more.

Ken

I've used some rusty wood, old pallets that have had metal on them, the stain can go in a fair way making for nice patterns.
I think the diggers is similar to CLR, where rust stain is removed from tiles, bricks etc.
Before someone asks "what's wood", its stuff that makes a good camp fire to drink port around.
Kryn

Originally Posted by neksmerj

Eh, what good is a rust remover if you can't use it on steel.

Can't say I've seen a piece of rusty wood! Maybe I should get out more.

Ken

Oxalic acid is a very effective stain remover or bleach on timber, for rust stains generally and especially on oak. Nasty stuff though, use extra precautions when using. I wouldn't use it on metal surfaces myself.

Isn't it the stuff they use to restore grey board back to original, especially on cedar windows etc.?

Originally Posted by DSEL74

Isn't it the stuff they use to restore grey board back to original, especially on cedar windows etc.?

Yup. If it bleaches past the original colour then you have a light basis for staining.

interesting cos oxalic acid is in rhubarb leaves . maybe we should grow rhubarb to to our gear rust free .

johno

G'day Guys,

I have been having a lot of success using molasses solution for rust removal.
It is the cheapest and easiest method I have come across and is very effective.

1 part molasses (about $1.60 liter from the local fodder supply store) and 9 parts water.
Put the rusted part in for a few days (2 days to a week depending on the level of rust) and you are back to bare shiny steel.

Higher carbon and hardened steel tends to come out with a mat grey patina but it is easy to polish off.

If there is some interest I can post some pictures.

Originally Posted by Belair_boy

G'day Guys,

I have been having a lot of success using molasses solution for rust removal.
It is the cheapest and easiest method I have come across and is very effective.

1 part molasses (about $1.60 liter from the local fodder supply store) and 9 parts water.
Put the rusted part in for a few days (2 days to a week depending on the level of rust) and you are back to bare shiny steel.

Higher carbon and hardened steel tends to come out with a mat grey patina but it is easy to polish off.

If there is some interest I can post some pictures.

Lots of cows around here Been meaning to give that molasses trick a try for ages .

Been meaning to give that molasses trick a try for ages

I would definitely recommend it.

Much better than the electrolysis method (no power supplies or caustic solutions).
Safer than phosphoric acid solutions (you could drink molasses solution if the smell didn't put you off, not that I would do this), although I do keep a bottle of phosphoric acid solution on hand for a quick de-rust (works in seconds to minutes on light rust).
Much cheaper than all the proprietary de-rusting products I have come across.
Does not remove the base metal like mechanical rust removal methods.
Easy as dropping the part in the solution, wait, wash off, dry and protect the clean surface.

I did come across http://www.evapo-rust.com.au/index.html the other day which works on the same reaction as molasses (chelation) but I have yet to buy some and compare the results. It would have to work very fast and exceptionally well to make it worth the money as it would be hard to beat the result of molasses. I would not like to pay for enough evapo-rust to submerge a car door for instance.

I forgot citric acid solution - I have also used this one but I prefer molasses now as I feel it wont keep removing good metal if the part is left in for a long time.

Negatives with molasses - the smell is not the best, it takes time to work and it is a dark brown solution so you can't see what is going on.
I don't have a problem with any of these as I keep it outside, speed is not usually an issue in machine/tool restoration and it is easy enough to wash the part off to see how things are going and then put it back if need be.

One of my auction purchases was about 100 screwjacks but they had been left in the weather and had gone rather rusty.
After cleaning a few with a wire brush in the angle grinder, which was effective but a little time consuming I experimented with some rust removal techniques.


The one on the right is straight from the stillage, with the one on the left after a few days in a citric acid solution. Citric acid can be bought in the supermarket baking section and one canister was dissolved in about 20 litres of water. The result is ok but there is some etching of the metal.


I then tried molasses and water solution for a couple of weeks. The results are amazing.
The rust is completely removed with no damage to the base metal. The dark patch in the center was where the nut had been sitting. The nut was moved and the jack re-immersed to remove the residual rust. The molasses is mixed with water in a 1:9 ratio and after the couple of week soaking the part is given a blast with a pressure washer to remove the resulting sludge. I now have a wheely bin full of molasses, water and screwjacks.

Originally Posted by Belair_boy

I forgot citric acid solution - I have also used this one but I prefer molasses now as I feel it wont keep removing good metal if the part is left in for a long time.
Citric acid can be bought in the supermarket baking section and one canister was dissolved in about 20 litres of water. The result is ok but there is some etching of the metal.

I agree with you regarding the use of Citric acid. The etching and pitting are real negatives in some situations!

Congratulations too on slipping 'stillage' into your conversation. That's not a word you come across every day.