Thread: Rust removing gel in Australia

I've not seen Naval Jelly for years, but did buy Evaporust which seems to be at least as effective.
When I do not want to immerse the part, a rag soaked in Evaporust can be used on the surface.

Cheers,
Bill

I bought some Rust Converter Jelly from Masters a few months ago - haven't got the used bottle anymore, but I'm pretty sure it was a Hammerite product - but I just checked on Master's web site and can't find it, but that doesn't mean much as the MAster's web site doesn't seem to list all of the products in their stores.

A Google search for "Rust Removal Gell Australia" lists quite a few results. It seems that you can also buy "Loctite Naval Jelly" off Ebay (http://www.fishpond.com.au/Health/He.../9999028843152), so maybe Loctite Australia may also be able to advise if the import Naval Jelly and where you can get it.

Regards,

Roy

Hey Pete,

Can you let us know how you get on? A means of localised rust conversion would be a handy thing.

Bob.

Selleys used to have a green (or blue) rust gel, which could even be used overhead. Not sure it's still in it's line-up with the dumbing down of the company though.

Thanks guys, will do Bob.

I think I'll try the soaked cloth in phosphoric idea, as I have the acid here so no harm in trying. Just on the back-burner a bit as I've been a bit a mad-scientist today with manganese phosphating and then trying different things to finish.

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Hey Pete,

Can you let us know how you get on? A means of localised rust conversion would be a handy thing.

Bob.

Bob here's a before and and after of the autocollimator base I mentioned above. I wanted to remove the rust without losing the reference surface. I masked it off and then laid a shop towel soaked in phosphoric acid on the surface. A few hours later the rust was loosened and I then just lightly ran a scraper over the surface to scrape off the loosened rust without cutting in to the cast iron. Unfortunately the painter's tape I used for marking was rubbish and some acid went under it, marking the paint. I knew it would mark it so I was a bit peeved, but it buffed out ok.

Autocollimator before.jpg Autocollimator after.jpg

Originally Posted by Pete F

Bob here's a before and and after of the autocollimator base I mentioned above. I wanted to remove the rust without losing the reference surface. I masked it off and then laid a shop towel soaked in phosphoric acid on the surface. A few hours later the rust was loosened and I then just lightly ran a scraper over the surface to scrape off the loosened rust without cutting in to the cast iron. Unfortunately the painter's tape I used for marking was rubbish and some acid went under it, marking the paint. I knew it would mark it so I was a bit peeved, but it buffed out ok.

Autocollimator before.jpg Autocollimator after.jpg

That was some serious rust on something you would not expect to find rust on Pete! The post phosphoric results look good.

Years ago, when I was a woodie, I read how a bloke recommended the use of single sided razor blades for rust removal from the surface of hand saw blades. They don't scratch the metal surface. I've been using them for the past twenty years. They are useful also for detecting projecting nicks on mill tables. I can post over a dozen if you want.

Bob.

Yes I wasn't impressed to say the least when I opened what remained of the box it came in to find that. As it turned out it was the least of my problems, but the price at the time was good and everything was repairable, I just need to finish the final alignment of the AC scale. The rust probably wasn't quite as bad as it looks in the photo, but it was hardly "flight rust".

I'm not actually sure what that surface is designed to be used for. I can only guess it's to indicate off, and the surface is parallel to the optical axis. On an alignment telescope a straddle level is often used, however on an autocollimator you're typically only comparing one point to another point (or more typically points), and alignment is relative rather than absolute with an alignment telescope. Just the same I thought it worthwhile preserving the original plane of the surface, so other than a bit of very minor pitting (more a tattoo than anything) it's all good now. Eventually I'll get around to indicating the surface and confirming the alignment to the optical axis and scrape it parallel if needed, I can see the surface would be handy for that reason alone.

Pete