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Thread: Scissor knurl

  1. #1
    Dave J Guest

    Default Scissor knurl

    Well here is mine, like I said it must be knurl week.

    I have a push knurler that I have had for years, but mostly do aluminium with it and the occasional steel bit. Since I need to do all the tool post height adjusters I though I would make a scissor one to take the load off my lathe because there are so many.

    I did contemplate not putting a knurl on them, and even tried a 2 piece adjuster with an aluminium top to make knurling easier for the push style, but ended up kicking myself up the back side and making the needed scissor knurler, LOL

    The wheels I took out of my push knurl which is Australian made, along with the hardened pins they run on. The knurling wheels a 2.0, so I take that as 2mm pitch.
    They are 5.67mm size pins, so I can open the holes up latter to fit other 6mm or 1/4 inside diameter knurling wheels.





    The pictures pretty well tell the story, I was lazy in that I used weldments to make it to save milling. I just milled down the blocks in between to be the right height and then V ed them out to get penetration. The blocks in the arms I left a couple of mill less in height either side and just filled it with weld.

    I have tried this knob and it seems to work fine, I think that is because of the leverage it has with the thread being out board and not inboard like the commercial ones are. The knob is off a car spare wheel holder.

    The finish is motor oil dipped, after giving it a go over on the bet sander.







    This is a quick test of the tool. I will be running coolant for this job on the height adjusters to get rid of the chips.I did notice with the oil I used for the test made the chips get embedded back into the job.
    It's hard to get a good close up shot of the knurl without blurring it, after deleting a lot this is the best I could do.





    Dave

    Edit
    Added pictures









    Last edited by Dave J; 1st June 2012 at 01:36 AM. Reason: Added better quality pictures

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  3. #2
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    And I thought it was a radiator cap. Nice sharp knurling.

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    Nice work Dave, and cool idea.

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    I hope this is not considered high jacking but just to give a contrast, this is a picture of an Aloris (BXA) knurling tool

    Attachment 210404

    The two arms run in dove tails, and the top knob is around 45mm diameter. The screw in the front of the picture is how Aloris hold the knurls in. From experience I can say that if you don't keep the screw/ pin greased it could seize. You can buy various pitches of knurling wheel too, so if you want a fine knurl you just change wheels

    Michael

  6. #5
    Dave J Guest

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    Hi Bob, what do you think about the reverse style? I have only done that test piece so I will see how it goes. The thought behind it was more leverage which means less pressure on the knob.
    The knob had a long M10 threaded bolt, I just cut it off and drilled and tapped it down the centre. Quick and easy knob, since this tool was just a hold up for my other job.
    I am still waiting on all the grub screws from the UK, so even though the tool holders are done and finished, I cant use them.

    Dave

    Edit,
    Those wheels are many years old, I thought they where a bit blunt, but still seem to work fine

  7. #6
    Dave J Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    I hope this is not considered high jacking but just to give a contrast, this is a picture of an Aloris (BXA) knurling tool

    Attachment 210404

    The two arms run in dove tails, and the top knob is around 45mm diameter. The screw in the front of the picture is how Aloris hold the knurls in. From experience I can say that if you don't keep the screw/ pin greased it could seize. You can buy various pitches of knurling wheel too, so if you want a fine knurl you just change wheels

    Michael

    No Hijack,
    I only used these knurls because they where here and needed to get this job done without waiting for some to arrive.(the grub screws are taking long enough) I do plan on buying different wheels if this design works OK, so I might use that idea to mount the new wheels in as it's a good one, thanks for posting it.

    Dave

  8. #7
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    Nice one Dave
    I thought the knob was off an old car air filter cover........Your idea has me wondering which style would be best, the only problem i can see with yours would be if you needed to knurl something long, you may need to remove the bolt to get it over the job. With all your toolholders its obviously had a workout already!

    To add to the aloris version, it looks like it would have a fairly limited diameter range.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    Hi Bob, what do you think about the reverse style? I have only done that test piece so I will see how it goes. The thought behind it was more leverage which means less pressure on the knob.
    The knob had a long M10 threaded bolt, I just cut it off and drilled and tapped it down the centre. Quick and easy knob, since this tool was just a hold up for my other job.
    I am still waiting on all the grub screws from the UK, so even though the tool holders are done and finished, I cant use them.

    Dave

    Edit,
    Those wheels are many years old, I thought they where a bit blunt, but still seem to work fine
    Dave,

    The only drawback I can see is that you have to slide your scissors on and off from the end. I can move mine away from the job and use a lathe tool. Still, we aren't in a race. The main thing is being able to provide suitable leverage to create a deep crisp knurl.

    Bob.

    ps. You asked me about the maximum diameter I can work with mine. 62mm.

  10. #9
    Dave J Guest

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    I did think about getting it onto work between centers about half way through making it, and I thought it would only take unscrewing the thread out of the bottom pin. My max diameter is 56mm, but I mainly made it for this job which is only 17mm or so diameter.

    I will say to anyone who has used a push knurler and been put off because of the pressure it puts on your cross slide screw, these are a great to knurl with, and the only complaint I have is that I should have made one years ago. Soooo easy to do deep knurls.

    Dave

    PS
    Here is a peek at the tool holders when they where about halfway through. I have yet to take some of them finished.

  11. #10
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Nice one Dave
    I thought the knob was off an old car air filter cover........Your idea has me wondering which style would be best, the only problem i can see with yours would be if you needed to knurl something long, you may need to remove the bolt to get it over the job. With all your toolholders its obviously had a workout already!

    To add to the aloris version, it looks like it would have a fairly limited diameter range.
    The knob is off a spare wheel in a boot and it had round sheet metal cover over it which this screwed through. I don't remember what car, but I keep all types of knobs and bits like this.
    No I haven't knurled them yet, I don't have coolant set up on the lathe yet, so I have to find a small tray and tap into the mill coolant or the bandsaw (which was meant for the lathe, LOL) I am waiting on the grub screws for the tool holders, so there is no hurry because I cant use them without the grub screws.

    I have never used the other style so I cant comment on which is best. I will say this will give the least knob pressure though.

    Dave

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    Hey Dave, are you going to use coolant while knurling?

    Based on what I have read, I use engine oil because the knurls aren't cutting, they are forming and require lubricant. I wouldn't have thought coolant would be up to the job.

    Bob.

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    You can use oil but to deliver a quality knurl with no interference from swarf you would either need to run a continous flow of cutting oil or coolant to evacuate the area.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    Hey Dave, are you going to use coolant while knurling?

    Based on what I have read, I use engine oil because the knurls aren't cutting, they are forming and require lubricant. I wouldn't have thought coolant would be up to the job.

    Bob.
    Hi Bob
    From my limited knurling experience, i have used oil and found that, like Dave, it makes the swarf from the knurling process stick to the job and get pushed into the knurl. I would think that flood coolant would wash the swarf away.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  15. #14
    Dave J Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    Hey Dave, are you going to use coolant while knurling?

    Based on what I have read, I use engine oil because the knurls aren't cutting, they are forming and require lubricant. I wouldn't have thought coolant would be up to the job.

    Bob.
    I think Pipeclay and Ewan has pretty well covered it, but when doing knurling I find I get lots little chips coming off the job and either getting pushed back into it or getting stuck the knurls, and also running off the with the oil I am putting on. The only way to get a nice clean knurl is to get rid of these which coolant will do. The coolant has plenty of oil in it as it's in it and picks it up off the mill as well.
    The tool holders have been done for weeks now and if I pick one up it still has an oil film on it, but I am keeping them covered as well to stop rust until I work out what finish to put on them.

    Dave

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Hi Bob
    From my limited knurling experience, i have used oil and found that, like Dave, it makes the swarf from the knurling process stick to the job and get pushed into the knurl. I would think that flood coolant would wash the swarf away.
    You blokes are right. Oil does make the swarf cling to the job. I use a copious amount of oil and a tooth brush to clear the swarf away. The results I have had, are to me, acceptable enough.







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