The new scraping thread

[Stustoys]

Great work Ray, That sheds filling up fast!
Stuart

[Greg Q]

Ah yeah, that's the other thing. Useful sizes are heavy and need some serious support. I was planning (without really doing the math) on perching a larger plate on top of my mill/lathe tooling cart. I am afraid that I'm going to have to re-engineer that with some larger uprights to house the 150 kg or so of a larger plate. Bummer.

[Dave J]

Like Stuart said, nice work and I agree that shed is filling up fast.

Dave

[.RC.]

Although they also recommend the support points should be the same as the support points when the plate was calibrated.

The plate should be marked where the three points are..

Here is the stand I made... I can move it around with the pallet jack

[RayG]

I looked carefully at the base of the granite surface plate in different lighting and I can't see any indications of support points. Makes you wonder if the calibration is "real".

Nice idea, having a table with forklift access, makes sense seeing how much it would weigh, and it's not the sort of thing you would want on wheels. I assume the levelling screws are tapped into the channel to lift the plate slightly off the angle iron sides?

Is that yet another camel back, or is it the same one that was in the shaper electrical wiring thread but before it was painted?

Hi Dave, Stuart,

Thanks for the comments, just to set your mind at ease, there is still a few feet of space left... still room for a shaper..

Regards
Ray

[Dave J]

With your luck lately, I can just see it now, you go and have a look at a really nice hardly used shaper, fully equipped with every accessory and the guy just gives to you, or wants scrap value. LOL

Seriously though,
Those strait edges that RC has can be bought through PM of a guy that makes them. I think I remember the postage was around $200 so it comes to about $350 all up for one. He also has 2 sizes of them.

Dave

[Greg Q]

There is something similar and possibly better in SA listed tonight on another popular site which should ignyte some interest. No affiliation

[Greg Q]

With your luck lately, I can just see it now, you go and have a look at a really nice hardly used shaper, fully equipped with every accessory and the guy just gives to you, or wants scrap value. LOL

Seriously though,
Those strait edges that RC has can be bought through PM of a guy that makes them. I think I remember the postage was around $200 so it comes to about $350 all up for one. He also has 2 sizes of them.

Dave

I have both of those too. The seller is Craig Donges, but I don't think he frequents PM any more. You could get it shipped via USA Address & Mail Forwarding for less.

If I didn't need the dovetail spotting, and had a large enough granite plate, I'd get the 36" one. You could always make a dovetail spotting tool later. The larger camelback has provision for fitting wood handles which are really important to minimize heat distortion.

GQ

[.RC.]

I looked carefully at the base of the granite surface plate in different lighting and I can't see any indications of support points. Makes you wonder if the calibration is "real".

Nice idea, having a table with forklift access, makes sense seeing how much it would weigh, and it's not the sort of thing you would want on wheels. I assume the levelling screws are tapped into the channel to lift the plate slightly off the angle iron sides?

Is that yet another camel back, or is it the same one that was in the shaper electrical wiring thread but before it was painted?

There are no levelling screws on the stand.. It just sits on three 100mm square pads with a bit of rubber between the steel and the plate.

The angle you see is just there for protection and safety... I did not know how stable it would be with it sitting on the three pads but it is solid as a rock.. It is after all 230kg..

The camel back is the same.. I only own 2... An 18" and the 36".

Bit of a thread here for anyone interested

TC grinder rebuild - The Home Shop Machinist & Machinist's Workshop Magazine's BBS

[harty69]

Hi RC

I have been keeping a close eye on that thread very interesting and informative so far
I have a Russian copy of a Cincinnati no 2 that i plan to restore to its former cold war glory soon bloody heavy things they are too

cheers
Harty

[eskimo]

TC grinder rebuild - The Home Shop Machinist & Machinist's Workshop Magazine's BBS

"Have scraped off all that lead paint and disposed of it in the playground at the local orphanage..."...you dirty rotten mongrel hahaha

[harty69]

hi greg

so being relatively new to the whole scraping thing (I have done a lot of reading and have a keen interest in learning more) but what would be on the list of essential items to do any real world machine way rebuilding
you know the things you can't do without and maybe the things that will save heaps of time a basic kit per say

cheers
Harty

[Greg Q]

Hi Harty...

I'm going to do this off the top of my head and probably add to it tomorrow.

1. A straightedge just slightly longer than the longest way you want to survey/scrape. The word 'straightedge' is a misnomer. Its properly called a spotting master. The only quality it needs is a stable, flat base of useful width and length. Granite or cast iron. Cast iron come in the camelback type and the parallel type. Brown & Sharpe made nice camel backs as did Starrett and Moore & Wright. Suburban Tools make the parallel type.

A shop-made dovetail spotting tool which you mill from cast iron then scrape true. It must be made to precision master standards-same as above.

2. A granite plate large enough to allow you to verify the flatness of your longest straightedge. This is important because a cast tool will warp, and you'll need to be able to either prove it hasn't or scrape it flat if it has.

3.The other things already noted in this thread...scraper(s), spotting ink, brayer, small arkansas stone. Files, rags, etc.

4. Precision survey equipment.

A. A master precision level (Starrett 199, Scherr-Tumico, B & S and some other european brands). It is better to have a flat base level rather than the vee-grooved ones owing to problems with narrow ways not supporting the grooved units.

B. Reliable dial indicator and dial test indicator. Mounting arrangements for same.

C. A reliable square reference. At least one pair of precision vee-blocks. Parallels and 1-2-3 blocks.

D. A spindle test bar is always helpful, and sometimes vital.

5 Machine Tool Reconditioning by Edward Connelly. This should have been top of the list.

Read it two or three times. It is slow going, but the last half of the book with examples is essential.

6. There are some very esoteric devices that you can build or find used. The Kingway alignment tool is one that you can make for under $400*. Autocollimators are used to survey longer machine ways, and there are also laser tools for that job.

7. Patience and forethought. I was taught to do the survey of the ways carefully and two different ways if possible, then make a scraping plan, then scrape the plan. You often (always?) have to use one part of the machine as a reference, and you have to mate parts to each other. The order of operation depends on the features of the machine, and what you can/must do to restore accuracy. Connolly is your guide here.

Greg

[harty69]

5 Machine Tool Reconditioning by Edward Connelly. This should have been top of the list.

Read it two or three times. It is slow going, but the last half of the book with examples is essential.
Greg

look what fell out of one of the printers at work today its the rare pdf paper back edition

thanks for the list greg greatly appreciated can you recommend any videos ?

cheers
Harty

[Greg Q]

Yes, I like Michael Morgan's book and video, but he has been very spotty over the years delivering paid orders. That might be fixed now. Also Rich King has a video out, but it is mostly about the Biax power scraper. There is also one on rebuilding a Bridgeport but the dovetail way isn't shown.

I have been looking for my copies of these lately as I promised to show them to a friend, but I really hid them well.