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Thread: TLC For An Old DI
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26th May 2012, 08:15 AM #1GOLD MEMBER
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TLC For An Old DI
Hi there,
I have a dial indicator that must be reasonably old. It's a 0.1 with a nice big face and i'd really like to use it but I have found that it has a fair amount of backlash and it sometimes sticks, giving erratic and non repeatable results.
Are there any ways to give it a spruce up, or adjustment, clean that may help bring it back to a useable state. Anything that is a no no in terms of cleaning?
I will never part with it even if I can't improve it as it was my Dad's and it has sentimental value to me and besides I like using old stuff. I have a micron digital DI that I bought from CTC tools and it's OK but I can't warm to it!
Here are some pics.
Cheers & Tanks
Simon
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26th May 2012 08:15 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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26th May 2012, 09:11 AM #2Dave J Guest
You are supposed to use a clock oil on them for lube, but I never have. I use sewing machine oil as I have it around.
That bezel could be cleaned up, I have done a few. I use a loose leaf mope on the bench grinder with some white of green stick on it and they come up like new and it takes all the scratches away. You have to just do a little at the time so you don
t heat it up.
Also works great for CD and CD games the kids scratch, I am always doing the grand kids when they wont work.
Dave
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26th May 2012, 10:12 AM #3
My kids are pretty lazy but I would never shove them into a grinder....
Sorry
If it is sticking it may need a clean first but I'm not sure what you would use. Some Contact cleaner maybe. Something that will dissolve the old lube that has gone hard.
Peter McBride would be the one to talk to.Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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26th May 2012, 10:26 AM #4Dave J Guest
LOL, I reread it and laughed myself.
I should have put CD's after grand kids.
Dave
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26th May 2012, 10:35 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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Ha!
Very good and well picked up. I was thinking of a circuit board cleaner? I have shot off an email to B.C. AMES for some info too. Not sure if they will help but it's worth a try.
Thanks,
Simon
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26th May 2012, 10:50 AM #6.
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Simon,
I used acetone to remove the gummy oil from one of my Mahr indicators. More here -
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ma...change-132563/
Bob.
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27th May 2012, 09:08 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks Dave & Bob,
OK I've taken the plunge, good or bad time will tell. I've taken most of it apart and I can see very small amount of dirt & grim, especially on the rack. This excites me because if I play my cards right in the cleaning process it may end up really smooth and good as new!
Pretty much the only part not removed is the dial and the next gear which has the smallest spring I have ever seen. There's no way I'm messing with that!
OK tomorrow it gets cleaned in acetone.
Simon
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28th May 2012, 08:29 AM #8.
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Simon,
When I used acetone it removed all traces of lubrication, locking up the mechanism.
I applied the watch oil with a pin to all the pivot points. Be careful. Don't get oil on the rack shaft
Bob.
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28th May 2012, 12:39 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Bob,
Thanks for the info mate. I have had a false start with this, I bought some nail polish remover from the shops. That's not an easy task anymore, most of the stuff is all acetone free now! Anyway I managed to get some nasty stuff with acetone but it had built in vitamins and moisturiser (apparently for the cuticals and stuff) and it's left a residue. Damn them, why does nail polish remover have to get so fancy these days! I will venture out to the hardware store to get the proper stuff. Last night was a half arsed attempt at cleaning it as TV was boring me ####less! That will teach me.
No oil on the rack shaft? That's good to know as it would have been one of the first things I would have thought to oil! Assume it's because it just attracts dirt to the insides?
Cheers,
Simon
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28th May 2012, 01:09 PM #10.
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Have a look at post no.83 here Simon - https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/di...70/index6.html
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28th May 2012, 01:20 PM #11
Bob, if you want to direct someone to a specific post in a thread you can do that by clicling on the post no. in the post heading, then copy the URL in the URL bar of your browser.
Like so
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/di...ml#post1469661
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28th May 2012, 01:36 PM #121915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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28th May 2012, 01:45 PM #13.
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28th May 2012, 05:57 PM #14GOLD MEMBER
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Well armed with some proper acetone and some quality"Singer" oil i had another crack!
Dismantling the second time around presented no chance of unexpected surprises! A second bath in acetone saw even more dirt left behind. A small (really not that easy to drop a small amount of oil) amount of oil in each of the bearing points where the gears move on and back together it went. Trickiest part was to get just the right amount of preload on that fine clock spring. Too much and you risk damage at full travel and it also requires too much spring force to move the dial. Too little and its hesitant to return and you can create backlash. I hope i got it just about right but hard to know until i actual use it. It certainly feels smooth, doesn't. Bind and the needle seems to travel freely. Its definately the best its ever going to be which is all i could hope for! The plastic face is still average at this stage but i can live with it for now. Ill have a go at polishing that when i get an appropriate wheel.
Thanks for everyones help.
Simon
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28th May 2012, 09:40 PM #15Dave J Guest
Hi Simon,
You are better off taking it out to polish it. I should have taken pictures off it when I have done it, but you can do that now, LOL
This might help you and others if you need to remove the needle, it was posted on Home machinist last year and would be easily enough made.
Repairing Calipers - The Home Shop Machinist & Machinist's Workshop Magazine's BBS
Dave