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Thread: Shaft clearance
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4th August 2013, 06:27 PM #16Senior Member
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Ps
Oh and I forgot...I thought about bushing the bearings (if that is correct term) and may have to do that but would need to make sure bushes did not spin in the bearing ( perhaps loctite them in). Also Ueee, thanks for offer but what is LG2? For Ueee, I am the fella at Captains Flat with the Dainichi Universal machine-if you are out this way, drop in for peek.
David
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4th August 2013 06:27 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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4th August 2013, 06:32 PM #17Senior Member
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Woops
I meant to say 38.32mm one way and 38.30 the other making it .02mm out of round or just under a thou.
David
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4th August 2013, 06:33 PM #18
Hi David,
Yes i remembered you and your "new" combo machine.
LG2 is leaded bronze bearing material, you can get it at M&G industrial in Fyshwick. Not the cheapest though, and at 100mm per bearing i won't have offcuts.
For building up the shaft, i have always seen it done is a spiral, probably so you don't just heat one side of the shaft up. If your using a mig you could probably set the lathe up to do it....
Is the Dainichi up and running yet? Last thing i remember you were pulling it down for a good clean. Just put a surface grinder in here if you need any grinding done.....
Cheers,
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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4th August 2013, 07:45 PM #19
Keith Fenner has a video on YouTube called "How much Bend is to Bent!" where he does just this with a propellor shaft. Well worth watching.
Dean
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4th August 2013, 08:54 PM #20Senior Member
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Thinking that is all the shaft is worn. Linish the gall and leave it be weld the shaft ? no bending, stress risers especially on a saw shaft no way. It will see you out and your grand kids. That wear is over many years old saying ''if it ain't broke don't fix it. just make sure you got the oil can handy.Use chain bar oil if you want After all all it is only engine oil with pva glue to make it hang on.Happy fire wood cutting. J
If you go back to your original post[1] that wear totally acceptable for a saw just looks like some one in the past was sparing with the lubricant.0.02.JLast edited by j.ashburn; 4th August 2013 at 08:59 PM. Reason: more to add
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4th August 2013, 08:56 PM #21Senior Member
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Inspired by keith
Yes, have seen all Keith's videos and he has inspired me to try and do this shaft project even though it is only a tractor saw. I love his quiet analytical approach. As for Dainichi, have rebuilt carriage, tail stock, horizontal mill/shaper table as well as chucks (as can't paint in the cold). Struggled with 4 jaw chuck as hard to manhandle (50 kg). I have to rewire whole machine as has hard wired single phase work lights and foot switches as well as three phase main switch. Foot switch is for shaper and mill I think going by its location.
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4th August 2013, 09:13 PM #22Senior Member
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Take it from an old hand save your energy and resources for some thing else you only beating yourself up.Saws kill and maim real quick. Speaking without knowledge of your skills I dont know how you weld, what welder you have and how you deal with hot stuff.Without being a know it all you could be playing with a deadly item to you or some one else.By asking these questions and wanting advice in this thread,tells me you want to embark on a project that is already serviceable.I am open to ''flak'' John.
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4th August 2013, 10:05 PM #23
I can see what you are saying here John. I tend to agree. I had some posts cut up by an "aquaintance", lets call him who brought his saw around to my place behind his ute. It had a 600mm blade. The motor was about 16hp but he did not have the right pulley on it so he went with the one he had. It was too big! He had the motor going slow and you could see the blade developing a wave. He kept slowing it down. I currently have a replacement pulley for it in my lathe waiting for the motor to turn up so I can measure the output shaft for boring of the pulley. He originally sent home with my wife (she is friends with his other half) a tapered split sleeve which had opened up as it should. He said it was 3/4 inch. The sleeve measured 25mm to 25.3mm bore as expected. Not sure how he expected me to take an accurate measurement from a sleeve that opens up when removed.
Dean
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5th August 2013, 02:15 PM #24
In regard to repairing the shaft, what about an epoxy product like these?
Cheers.
Vernon.
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8th August 2013, 09:18 AM #25GOLD MEMBER
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That chart is great, thanks Phil..its now in my folder
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8th August 2013, 11:37 AM #26SENIOR MEMBER
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