Thread: Show us your Shaper

Hi Joe,
Just make sure the ram is in the rear position and then you can use the scale on the dovetail for accurate stroke length. Once you have that done you can then adjust the ram itself over the job.

Dave

Hi,

The vice came with the shaper. I also got a whole lot of aircraft aluminium, about 20kg (possibly more) in different block sizes, heaps of brass in small sizes, a work bench, a spare 240v motor that works, and a mitatoyu 6" dial indicator. A good deal in all.

She's old and I don't really know what I'm doing but that will change.

There's no ram scale.

I will be doing lots of trial and error.

I may have to look at replacing the motor, after about 2hrs of inconstant work it really heated up. I should of got a photo of vee belt, it's a goner.

I really am happy with it though. Looking forward to learning how to use it.

Ben.

Hi Ben,

Originally Posted by bwal74

6" dial indicator

You mean dial vernier?
If its a 6" dial indicator I'd like to see some pictures

Stuart

In one of your photos it shows the feed pawl at about the 5 O'clock position,were you just having a play.

In an other photo it shows it at about 10 O'clock,this is the correct position for it to work.

This pawl is what engages the cross slide feed screw.It is able to be lifted out of engagement with the toothed wheel and rotate 90 degrees for no feed and 180 degrees to reverse the feed.

Normally the feed will range from 1 tooth to 3 teeth movement for the feed.

In another photo it shows the depth of cut you were taking across the aluminium and the way you had the tool angled in the lantern post,the way it was positioned would cause the tool to dig in if something became loose.

The way the tool was positioned would be suited to a cut feed opposite to what you had.In most cases it is better to have the tool angled in the same direction as the feed.

Also with the sliding block on the bull gear the length of stroke can be adjusted either side of the slot running through it,the only problem is that if you dont position it on the correct side of the slot you will feed the ram out fast and return slow ,you need a slow out/foreward stroke and fast back/return stroke.

If you run the shaper at its highest SPM it may be easier for you to tell which way is faster/slower,at the lower SPM its a bit hard to tell.

Not sure of the age of your machine but would think 50/60 as it is not sitting on the square type base.

Had a look at your photos but couldnt make out if there was any provision for a table support,if there isnt you may need to look into making something up to give support to the table.

Hi Pipeclay,

I was just having a play, it was the first time I've ever used a shaper.

I was cutting from one side to the other side and then back to the original side of the workpiece. I hope you know what I mean.

I didn't know the angle of the cutter should be aligned with the direction of feed. I actually don't know how to change the angle yet.

There's no work table support, I looked for a mount but there isn't one.

The cross feed (vice movement is so simple its stuffed me).

I'll have to read my Fitting and Machining text book re shapers!

Cheers Ben

ps it was a dial vernier (not a dial indicator )

When you release the locking screw on the lantern post you can rotate the lantern in the clapper.
Or if you want you can offset/rotate the tool slide by loosening the square headed bolt behind the tool head.

Dont worry Ben, we all had to start where you are.

Dave

Hi,

Managed to play around on the shaper for an hour this arvo.

Straightened up the tool piece.
Really only adjusted the depth of cut.
Tomorrow I will attempt to reduce the feed rate and maybe adjust the stroke length.

I put a new belt on as well.

Not satisfied with the finish of the cut, but not too worried. If I can reduce the feed rate that will help but the HSS cutting piece is probably the main culprit. That will be fixed once I buy a bench grinder. I will reduce ram spm as well.

I believe my machine is the same vintage as Steamwhispher's. I'm not sure if the work table is rotatable.

Anyway until tomorrow.

Ben

I think all the table would swivel, just undo the large hex at the front and you will soon find out, but then you will need to dial it back in with an indicator.

The year should be on the fixed dovetail on top. Mine has D/672/1781, so no one knows what the first letter is for, but the 6 is the 6th month and the 72 is the year. The last number is the shaper number of how many where made at that time.

Dave

Hi Ben,
Sadly our tables won't swivel. Seems everyone else's does though. I did make a table support that works quite well though.

Phil

Thanks for that Phil,
Are your tables 1 or 2 piece?

Dave

Originally Posted by Dave J

Thanks for that Phil,
Are your tables 1 or 2 piece?

Dave

Hi Dave
only one piece and no provision for a table support that works. Only a 1" hole for a piece of running thread. Where the hex locking bolt for the table swivel should go is access for the cross slide leadscrew nut retaining bolt.

I wonder why they changed the design halfway through sort of thing. The bull gear I have here is off the same model as yours and has been repaired just like yours, maybe it was a weak spot. Also the yoke that connects to the ram was broken as well and welded up from memory, maybe it just had a hard life.
I measured a few parts like pins etc and they are all different sizes, so it was a major change they did when moving onto the swivel table model, though the casting look similar.

The guy that gave me the parts with the shaper said the bloke he got it off had used the main castings with the table lift for some other machine in a production environment. He said he dismantled 3 machines to make that one and these where the spares that where left over and gave them to him.

Dave

Hello all,

Granny Macson is up and running. Stamped 52/4 so I am guessing made in 1952 and either 4th month or number 4 build. All castings stamped with a 2 except tool head which is 4.

Post 179 shows it on unloading.
Pic 1 shows the new table feed pawl with the old one upside down on the table slide. The bolt stand on it's end on the table is about 8mm. The tapered end it it standing on is 5mm. The machine is RUNNING in this photo. I later tried a 50c coin and it also stays standing under power.

The other pics show the comparison in size between the 10" Alba and the 18" Macson. Weight is about trebled. The rusty looking marks are highlighted by the flash. They don't appear in to the naked eye. I wonder if the camera has picked up rust in the metal pores???

Ken