Thread: Parting off in a Shaper

Well done Ben.
I'm sure you'll be flamed for wasting material I bet it was fun just the same.

Phil

I find this simple clamp stop works perfectly on a Douglas shaper as a saddle stop.

Work Stop

With it, controlling maximum travel is easy. Just disengage the auto feed before you reach it, and feed by hand until it bumps the stop.

Jordan

Originally Posted by nadroj

I find this simple clamp stop works perfectly on a Douglas shaper as a saddle stop.

Work Stop

With it, controlling maximum travel is easy. Just disengage the auto feed before you reach it, and feed by hand until it bumps the stop.

Jordan

Hi Jordan,
I'm interested in the work stop but unless CTC tooling sell them then I'm lost.
You might have the wrong link there.

Phil

Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer

Hi Jordan,
I'm interested in the work stop but unless CTC tooling sell them then I'm lost.
You might have the wrong link there.

Phil

CDCO web site does not reflect the location of the current page in the address bar, nor does it appear to have it on the web page as the forum does.

Try a search for "stop", then select mill clamp.

Oops. "Work Clamp"

Dean

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

CDCO web site does not reflect the location of the current page in the address bar, nor does it appear to have it on the web page as the forum does.

Try a search for "stop", then select mill clamp.

Oops. "Work Clamp"

Dean

CTC. pffft. Gees I even got that wrong.
Thanks Dean.

Phil

Try this:
CDCO Machinery Corp.

You might have to go:
Machine Tool Toolings > Milling Machine Tooling > Work Stop

Jordan

Thanks Jordan, got it now.

Phil

Hi Ben,

Originally Posted by bwal74

but you have to watch that you don't hit your vice and it's difficult to exactly line up the cuts from both sides.

Couldnt you move the work so the cut line is outside the jaws?

I assume you have seen shapers with hacksaw frames mounted on them? (the finish would of course suck)

Stuart

Hi Ben,
looks like it worked well. Just go easy if you decide to take on steel. I don't think the Douglas would be up for that unless you use a really thin blade. Be happy to be proved wrong though......
Cheers,
Ew

Originally Posted by Ueee

Hi Ben,
looks like it worked well. Just go easy if you decide to take on steel. I don't think the Douglas would be up for that unless you use a really thin blade. Be happy to be proved wrong though......
Cheers,
Ew

Ahem!!!!

Phil

Hi,

You know Stuart, I didn't even think of moving the piece outside of the jaws. I'll give it a go next time.

I've seen the hacksaw tool, it's on the list of things to do/make.

I reckon it would cut steel if you went slow and steady, I've shaped some steel lately and it went well.

Hope you like the photo of the swarf and toolholder. I received heaps of aluminium (probably 40-50kgs worth) when I bought my expensive shaper.

Cheers Ben.

Hi Ben,
It was on my list but I got to take it off when I bought a bandsaw

Have you measured you parallels? Some parallels(like mine ) arent that parallel on their side(of course it might not matter for the job you are doing), took me a while to twig to that one when I was first trying to level my lathe.

Stuart

Just to mention, the gooseneck parting tool is also quite capable of making surfaces under power feed, as well as narrow cuts.
I used one to make a slot for a toobit holder, about 10mm wide and deep.
The spring feature really helped the cut, from chatter+++ to smooth as butter.

Jordan

HI,

Been using the shaper some this week. Used Stuart's idea of moving the work piece a little to the right of the vice jaws, much better.

Doing some facing work with it as well as it gives such a good surface finish, better than my mill.

Ben.