Thread: Shipping Container repair query

If you're trying to do what I think you are. Get a set of dividers, set them to say 3mm less than the biggest gap. Holding them vertically run them along the roof scribing the roof profile on the flat steel. (might be easier to make a cardboard template first the transfer that to the steel)

Stuart

Originally Posted by twebb01

I have a storage container that has one of the corner roofing sheets dented and rusted out. My plan is to cut out the rusted area and ‘block up’ the area around where the rusted material was removed. What I mean by the term ‘block up’ is to use four pieces of flat steel 100mm X 3mm (length as required) on edge to form a rectangle welded to the existing roof around the rusted out bit. The top of the ‘block’ will then have an exhaust fan mounted.I’m not very good at describing this project. I’ve attached a very primitive sketch showing one of the ‘block’ sides in hash marks. The lower edge of this side will need to be trimmed to match the profile of the existing roof. I think transferring the roof profile to the flat steel is called 'scribing'.I’m at a loss as to how to transfer the roof profile to the flat steel. Any ideas or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Hi, the way I'd do it, is to use a couple of magnetic welders squares, cardboard strip, an adjustable square, and a pencil. Tape the cardboard to the flat. Sit the flat on its edge and use the magnetic squares to hold it upright, saves having to use four hands, sit the square on top and adjust the rule down to sit on the bottom of the "flutes". Mark the bottoms onto the flat, once you've done that, then mark the tops the same way. Measure the depth of the "flutes" and transfer this onto the cardboard, then it is just a matter of drawing in all the lines. Cut your cardboard a bit under size so that it can be trimmed to suit where necessary, radii etc. Once it's cut and you're happy with it transfer the cardboard template to the flat bar and cut out the bits not required.
Another way would be, cut the rust from the steel container in a straight line and weld the flat in place vertically. This would be a lot simpler.
Kryn

Remember also that a container roof has a slight upwards arc for water run off

Stu - using the dividers as you described will be the method I'll use, but probably drawing on cardboard vs scribing on steel flat stock. I guess the key is to keep the dividers (scribing tool vertical). You mentioned 3mm less than biggest gap, wouldn't it be 3mm greater than biggest gap? Or, have I misunderstood?

Kyrn - like the idea about using welders magnets keep material in place while scribing. If that section of the roof wasn't so banged up I could probably just draw the profile. I did consider cutting the rusted area out a long a straight line and butt welding the steel in place. That would be easier, but other factors involved. I'll be using the combo-square to keep the scribing tool vertical.

Simpliciy - This roof of this container is so banged up I'm just trying to keep the run-off outside the container!

THANK YOU gentlemen for your very helpful replies!

oops sorry I left that bit out.....first time around just to get you close. The next 3mm to finish it off.

If the whole roof is that banged up, you should consider putting a simple flat roof over the top of the whole container - just a basic frame of treated 2x4 that you screw roofing iron/gal. to with one end jacked up a bit with an additional 2x4 on edge for drainage. Bolt it to the container using bolts and threaded holes in some of the flat offcuts placed in the corner holes of the container, plus any extra fittings if its longer than 20'. Guttering optional to a drum if you are a keen gardener.

The fan-in-a-box will still be handy plus the double roof may keep the container a bit cooler in summer.

Originally Posted by bsrlee

If the whole roof is that banged up, you should consider putting a simple flat roof over the top of the whole container - just a basic frame of treated 2x4 that you screw roofing iron/gal. to with one end jacked up a bit with an additional 2x4 on edge for drainage. Bolt it to the container using bolts and threaded holes in some of the flat offcuts placed in the corner holes of the container, plus any extra fittings if its longer than 20'. Guttering optional to a drum if you are a keen gardener.

The fan-in-a-box will still be handy plus the double roof may keep the container a bit cooler in summer.

Yep, the secondary roof is on the list, I have the material on hand. But first must get water tight, moved and levelled! I sure hope it does keep it a bit cooler in the summer, inside temp in the summer is 'breathtaking'!!

Ted

I have a shipping container as a workshop, I do under stand what you are trying to do as I have done it. now the roof of my container has three vents in it @ 500 x 500mm, the frame is made from 50x75x3mm folded flat steel. the 50mm side is the part that is bolted to the underside of the roof and the 75mm goes through the opening outside, steel screws are used to fix in place.

process

1 make fames to size, predrill holes in the 50mm edge to receive fixing screws

2 cut hole in roof to the centre line of roof to fit frame. different to were you want yours

3 apply liberal amount of mastic to the top 50mm topside part of frame

4 insert up through hole

5 screw up through predrilled holes into roof, allow mastic to seal gaps

6 on the roof put down a bead of mastic between roof and frame and smooth off

All done

Originally Posted by Opelblues2

I have a shipping container as a workshop, I do under stand what you are trying to do as I have done it. now the roof of my container has three vents in it @ 500 x 500mm, the frame is made from 50x75x3mm folded flat steel. the 50mm side is the part that is bolted to the underside of the roof and the 75mm goes through the opening outside, steel screws are used to fix in place.

process

1 make fames to size, predrill holes in the 50mm edge to receive fixing screws

2 cut hole in roof to the centre line of roof to fit frame. different to were you want yours

3 apply liberal amount of mastic to the top 50mm topside part of frame

4 insert up through hole

5 screw up through predrilled holes into roof, allow mastic to seal gaps

6 on the roof put down a bead of mastic between roof and frame and smooth off

All done

"..frame is made from 50x75x3mm folded flat steel.." I'm assuming the shape of folded flat steel is very similar to angle iron? How long is each side of the frame? Any problems with leaks? What kind of mastic did you use?

Thanks,

Ted

sorry, bit more of description. yes the steel was 3mm flat that was folded to 75x50mm and simple 90deg cut and welds on the corners, there are 4 @ 25x25x3mm angle screwed uprights on 4 corners with a 600x600 folded sheet metal cover fixed over the top. the Mastic was from Bunning's Hardware

http://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-4...alant_p1230169 its done for the last 5 year

Opel,

This is my second go at a reply. The first lengthy and lost in cyberspace. I'll sum up below:

'Thanks' for the SketchUp drawing, very impressed! My OP sketch done with TurboCad, which I haven't used in years and it shows.

Yesterday decided I need some TC revision, and (on whim) also re-installed a old copy of SU (I've never used SU before).

This AM when I opened your SU drawing, said to myself "Wow, I gotta learn this"

So 'thank you for sharing your project details AND opening the SketchUp door for me!