The Sieg C6 - AL-60 - G0516 - 10 x 22 class lathe thread

[Jim Ferrous]

Hi guys

That's what I thought it would do, but the knurled section is just tapped for that bolt. Putting that bolt in doesn't actually tighten anything (or change anything).

I'm scratching my head over this.

[cba_melbourne]

Hi guys

That's what I thought it would do, but the knurled section is just tapped for that bolt. Putting that bolt in doesn't actually tighten anything (or change anything).

I'm scratching my head over this.

That bolt is firmly tightened into the toolholder. On the threaded section of this bolt runs the knurled height adjuster sleeve. The reason they did choose a hex head bolt for this (and not a headless stud like on AXA toolholder systems) is so you can handle the toolholder by this hex head. As long as you handle it by the head, the height adjustment cannot accidentally change. Some people like me cut a groove for an O-ring to the inside of the bore of the adjuster sleeve, that way the height adjustment becomes self hemming yet can be adjusted manually without tools or the need to loosen a locknut.

[Jim Ferrous]

Thanks, all figured out now......I feel like a doofus..........but I'm happy it's figured out!

Appreciate all the replies and help and feedback everyone.

[Jim Ferrous]

Here is a photo of the bottom of the QCTP showing the cylinder of steel removed. You can also see the profile of the tool post to the left.
When I bought the QCTP the bloke at H&F said it may need machining to fit. It was really hard to see that cylinder at it was pressed in, but as mentioned earlier an easy out and a few taps brought it out and allowed it to fit the tool post without any machining -

[Jim Ferrous]

Bought the oil drip pan from SuperCheap Autos today. Its quite heavy steel and well made for a very cheap price (under $10.00) a slight mod and it fitted perfectly. It will be handy because I'll be able to slide it out and tip swarf straight into the Sulo bin

[Jim Ferrous]

Took the 3 jaw chuck off today to mount the 4 jaw.

Wow did some bloke in a Chinese workshop think "I'll tighten these nuts up good and tight"!

Bit of sweat and swearing in equal quantities and I got the chuck off. Its a great system and it's a step up from the 9x20 chuck mounting method and now that I have loosened those bloody nuts for the first time.....that will NEVER happen again and it should be a relative pleasure changing over the chucks.

All in all, I'm so far quite happy with the lathe. Only two weeks tomorrow since I bought it, but all's well so far.

[Jim Ferrous]

The manual said that there should have been an oiler at the end of the leadscrew. There wasn't one there and it bugged me. So off it came -





Drilled -




Oiler inserted -




and put back on -



I cleaned up the leadscrew cover and made it square.

[Jim Ferrous]

Had a black plastic ball handle off something or other in a draw, so I cut the end off a cheap ratchet spanner, milled out the ball and ended up with a very comfortable tail end locking system -

[Jim Ferrous]

Made a new handle (longer) and put another black plastic ball on it. Felt good to be turning steel and tapping steel after a long time away from the hobby -

[Jim Ferrous]

Did a ball bearing mod to the two steadies today -

[Jim Ferrous]

[Jim Ferrous]

Brass bush under the tailstock quill tightener to that the handle is in a better position -

[snowyskiesau]

I've just got my C6 back in action after a long break so must try out some of your mods.
The ratchet spanner for the tail stock is a good one!

[Ueee]

Good work Jim.
Is there a reason for the bearings to be on opposite sides of the follow rest fingers? Just remember that you need to keep chips away from the bearings otherwise everything can get a bit bumpy as the bearings roll the chips flat on the workpiece....

Cheers,
ew

[Jim Ferrous]

Hi Ew

Hi had to do that on the follower because of the angles, it was enough that if I was turning smaller diameter it wouldn't allow it to be in the right position.

It's easy to flip them around if I need to,or just remove the bearings and use the brass fingers.

I have thought about swarf getting caught between the bearings.....I'll have to see how I go with that.