Thread: Silver solder repair to brass plumbing fitting in wall.

Welcome to the forum Bouvard. Your silver solder idea should work, oxy might be better than the map gas but if you get some 25% silver solder you would have a much better chance especialy with the lower heat of the map gas. A little silver solder paste flux and it should run into your crack nicely. 5% is just rubbish and dosen't flow very well. Make sure your pipe is well drained and you are not fighting trickling water. Good luck.

Also make sure you don't set fire to your house take note of such things as insulation and timber framing etc.

have you done much silver soldering . map gas should be right. i have been surprised what u can get away with. shore beats dragging a oxy set around. all ways my first choice when ladders or hi roof's are involved. just like claw hammer said. better to go for the better quality silver solder. if your in melb and don't have any. i will give you a little. good prep work is a must, as usual. fires are bad of course.
unless you get a new house out of it. if you hold your tong just right you cant go wrong.

Before trying to solder the crack did you put any sealant on the new seat you threaded into the tap body. The best thing would probley be some "Stag" it will wodk its way into the crack and with a bit of luck it will seal.
Rowley.

Thanks Stag, but, what is stag please? ?Bouvard

Thanks Rowley for your advice and offer of solder. I am in WA so cant accept but thanks anway.
Bouvard

Stag is a sealent,I have only seen Red and it comes in a tin,it is a product name.

as claw hama says..5% silver yellow tip, is crap

get at least brown tip (15%) and use paste.

Better still use Blue tip (45% Silver) BUT its very easy to overheat (sort of boiling) leaving pinholes which then leak

Originally Posted by azzrock

unless you get a new house out of it.

You will most likely find you aren't covered by insurance when "applying heat to the residence"(something of similar wording)

Stuart

Might be better to use Loctite 290

Loctite ® 290™ Threadlocker

Loctite ® 290™ is a medium strength threadlocker for pre-assembled bolts up to 1/2"(12 mm). Penetrates threads by capillary action. Secures set screws and other assemblies after settings are completed. Seals welds and porous metal parts.

You would have to make sure the job is dry I'd think. That might be easily done by running the hot water for a while to heat the pipe work and then quickly pulling it apart and draining. The heat in the pipe might be enough to dry the crack out. Or borrow the bosses hairdryer. Not much chance of burning the house down this way.
You also end up with a bottle of 290 that is easy to justify buying.

bollie7

Thanks for your idea about the loctite.. I now have a fallback option if the solder does not work. Thanks again
Bouvard

Hi Bouvard,

Welcome to the forum, no shortage of advice

Here is my suggestion, while silver solder is much better than normal lead/tin solder it requires a LOT more heat, which can be difficult to do with a copper pipe embedded in a wall, especially if the adjacent pipe work is full of water...

I would suggest if you are determined to solder it, just regular solder would be a more doable option.

Before going down that path, try the loctite bollie suggested, I have used that before and works a treat.

Regards
Ray

Hi Ray, not sure about the soft solder option. Soft solder relies heavily on have a realy clean joint which he will not be able to get. Silver solder on the other hand with a little flux should still capilitate into the crack. Blue or brown tip doesn't need that much heat so should still work. Have had to do many similar repairs over the years.

Must say my reaction is to forget heating the fitting in-situ. As already hinted the amount of heat needed is more than expected and a breach is not a small lump of brass.

Further one does not know what cobwebs/dust etc are in the wall.

I gave myself a fright silver brazing a 3/4" pipe together under the house - I thought the brick footings and dirt would be a pretty good hearth with 1.5m above providing plenty of head room. Forgot to clean all the cobwebs and dust away. Still remember the snaking little flames running in all sorts of directions. Never again!

Finally I would avoid traditional soft solder - the lead content on principle should prohibit its use with potable water ---and then there is my lack of success with the lead free varieties in electronics and again the size of the breech hence amount of heat all pointing to

Bother about the stainless seat not sealing --- I like the sealant idea but fear replacement is where I'd end up.

I know it is a heath-robinson idea but could a flip mixer be installed in the existing sink as a temporary measure with pipes coming up from underneath and the existing breach disconnected ---- that of course depends on being able to get to the existing pipes --- I have that privilege having a timber floor on stumps kind of house.

All the best with it.

Maybe the renovators forum could provide some guidance??