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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Kingswood
    Posts
    422

    Default Slitting Saw Arbour Keyway

    I have a slitting saw arbour for my small mill: MT2, 25.4 mm, keyway, M12 drawbar and left hand nut.
    It works at treat with saws using the keyway, but a pain with saws without the keyway slipping occasionally.

    I cannot properly draw the nut up tight because it is a left hand thread and the arbour does not have any spanner flats.
    I can tighten the nut against the spindle, but that relies on the MT2 not slipping and just does not seen correct.
    The drawbar head is no use because the threads do not react.

    Options:
    - live with it,
    - machine spanner flats on the arbour housing,
    - grind keyways in the saws.

    What are the experiences of others on this subject ?

    John.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Riverina NSW
    Posts
    169

    Default

    I would be going with either of the first 2 options, when u try to do it up do you turn the speed right down so it is harder to turn the spindle might make it easier to tighten

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Nth Qld
    Posts
    715

    Default

    Put a second LH nut on the thread and tighten it against the first one?.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney
    Age
    65
    Posts
    3,566

    Default

    You could put a piece of material in the Slot in the Quill to stop the spindle from rotateing while you tighten /loosen the nut.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Kingswood
    Posts
    422

    Default

    Thanks guys for the input,
    The drawbar is actually M10, not M12 as stated earlier.

    The threaded end of the arbour is fully covered by the nut, so another nut is not practicable.
    Note also that tightening two nuts against each other does not tighten the top one against the saw blade.

    The spindle is fitted with a small spanner flat and I have an accessory spanner to engage it.
    Using it puts the tightening torque on the MT2 fitting - which really should be OK once the drawbar is tight, but I am not sure of that.

    One possible option would be to reverse the motor with the saw blade also reversed.
    The cutting reaction would then not be in the direction to loosen the nut.
    This is not a good idea because there is a plastic coarse Archimedian screw on the extended motor shaft to lift lubricant up to the top of the gear stack.
    Gear bearing reactions would need to be taken into account also.

    Probable actions:
    Grind some spanner flats on the arbour at TAFE next term ( during the surface grinding subject ).

    Review internal gear arrangement to see if reversing the motor is practicable (but not likely).

    Attempt to grind a keyway in the saw blade (3 mm thick, how difficult can it be ! ).

    In future only purchase saw blades with keyways.

    John.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Qld. Australia
    Posts
    417

    Default

    How about drilling and tapping the end of arbour and loctite in a suitable sized bolt?

    Nev

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Kingswood
    Posts
    422

    Default

    Nev,
    I don't really want to extend the arbour length outboard of the saw blade as I frequently find that a work piece clamped in the vice leaves the nut very close to the mill table.

    I removed the vice rotating base some time ago to improve the general stiffness of the set-up.

    John.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Qld. Australia
    Posts
    417

    Default

    ok, I've had quite a few bourbons so my next suggestion may be weird. How about drilling the end of the arbour to suit the head of a socket head cap screw, then press and loctite this in?

    Nev

    ps: I'll check back when I have a few more bourbons to see if I am crazy or just a bit drunk.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,680

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SurfinNev View Post
    ok, I've had quite a few bourbons so my next suggestion may be weird. How about drilling the end of the arbour to suit the head of a socket head cap screw, then press and loctite this in?

    Nev

    ps: I'll check back when I have a few more bourbons to see if I am crazy or just a bit drunk.
    tis 5days since Nev posted that....the hangover is lasting longer than he wished...lol

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Qld. Australia
    Posts
    417

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by eskimo View Post
    tis 5days since Nev posted that....the hangover is lasting longer than he wished...lol
    What hangover? I'm still drinking.

    Nev

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