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Thread: Slitting Saw Arbour Keyway
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1st October 2010, 04:38 PM #1Senior Member
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Slitting Saw Arbour Keyway
I have a slitting saw arbour for my small mill: MT2, 25.4 mm, keyway, M12 drawbar and left hand nut.
It works at treat with saws using the keyway, but a pain with saws without the keyway slipping occasionally.
I cannot properly draw the nut up tight because it is a left hand thread and the arbour does not have any spanner flats.
I can tighten the nut against the spindle, but that relies on the MT2 not slipping and just does not seen correct.
The drawbar head is no use because the threads do not react.
Options:
- live with it,
- machine spanner flats on the arbour housing,
- grind keyways in the saws.
What are the experiences of others on this subject ?
John.
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1st October 2010 04:38 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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1st October 2010, 09:29 PM #2Senior Member
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I would be going with either of the first 2 options, when u try to do it up do you turn the speed right down so it is harder to turn the spindle might make it easier to tighten
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1st October 2010, 09:54 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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Put a second LH nut on the thread and tighten it against the first one?.
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1st October 2010, 10:50 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
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You could put a piece of material in the Slot in the Quill to stop the spindle from rotateing while you tighten /loosen the nut.
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1st October 2010, 11:28 PM #5Senior Member
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Thanks guys for the input,
The drawbar is actually M10, not M12 as stated earlier.
The threaded end of the arbour is fully covered by the nut, so another nut is not practicable.
Note also that tightening two nuts against each other does not tighten the top one against the saw blade.
The spindle is fitted with a small spanner flat and I have an accessory spanner to engage it.
Using it puts the tightening torque on the MT2 fitting - which really should be OK once the drawbar is tight, but I am not sure of that.
One possible option would be to reverse the motor with the saw blade also reversed.
The cutting reaction would then not be in the direction to loosen the nut.
This is not a good idea because there is a plastic coarse Archimedian screw on the extended motor shaft to lift lubricant up to the top of the gear stack.
Gear bearing reactions would need to be taken into account also.
Probable actions:
Grind some spanner flats on the arbour at TAFE next term ( during the surface grinding subject ).
Review internal gear arrangement to see if reversing the motor is practicable (but not likely).
Attempt to grind a keyway in the saw blade (3 mm thick, how difficult can it be ! ).
In future only purchase saw blades with keyways.
John.
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2nd October 2010, 09:18 AM #6Senior Member
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How about drilling and tapping the end of arbour and loctite in a suitable sized bolt?
Nev
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2nd October 2010, 12:03 PM #7Senior Member
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Nev,
I don't really want to extend the arbour length outboard of the saw blade as I frequently find that a work piece clamped in the vice leaves the nut very close to the mill table.
I removed the vice rotating base some time ago to improve the general stiffness of the set-up.
John.
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2nd October 2010, 07:40 PM #8Senior Member
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ok, I've had quite a few bourbons so my next suggestion may be weird. How about drilling the end of the arbour to suit the head of a socket head cap screw, then press and loctite this in?
Nev
ps: I'll check back when I have a few more bourbons to see if I am crazy or just a bit drunk.
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7th October 2010, 08:46 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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7th October 2010, 09:20 PM #10Senior Member
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