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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    South Africa, Cape Town
    Age
    61
    Posts
    26

    Default Slitting Saw Holders

    I have ordered 2 slit saw blades of 100 x 22 x 1.2 mm.

    While I am waiting for them to arrive. I would like to know what is the best way to make a holder for them.
    I can make one with a straight shank to be gripped in my lathe chuck and collet holders, or I may fit a morse taper shank, but them I have to remove the lathe chuck each time I want to use it.

    What is the easiest way forward. (How can I prevent the blade from running off-center? I see that this is apparently a common occurrence).
    Regards

    Johan

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    3,149

    Default

    Provided that the saw blade is perpendicular to the axis, a slight amount of 'off centre' is not a problem. There will always be a high tooth. It comes down to how high. I'd go straight shaft. If you hold the arbor in a 3 jaw chuck you will have the eccentricity of the 3 jaw in there to add to your value of off centre anyway.
    In this thread about half way down the page slitting saw arbors are discussed.
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ne...29/index2.html
    If you turn the shaft first and then hold that in a collet or dial it in with a 4 jaw you should be able to get the bore pretty close to concentric (although it is the clamping surface that will determine squareness).

    Michael

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,417

    Default

    Make it a straight shank for collet chuck. Do not worry about a little off center, there is always a high tooth, but every time you mount the slitting saw to the arbor it will be another high toohs so it will still wear evenly. More critical is a wobbling slitting saw, as this cuts a wider slit (this can be used on purpose on an arbor with two tapered washers to adjust wobble, that way one can cut with just one slitting saw a wide range of slit widths, but that is another project).

    I once made a 22mm slitting saw arbor starting from an old bolt. It was about M20x100 size. Turned the threaded part into the shaft. I can give you a few tips:
    - make the arbor long enough, you find you often need the added reach
    - make the diameter of the arbor head as small as possible, because this limits how deep you can slit. A 100mm diameter saw on a 40mm arbor head can only cut 100-40=60/2=30mm deep!
    - do NOT use the keyway slot usually provided by the slitting saw. If you do the saw cannot slip when it catches and it will shatter, especially the thinner saws like yours.
    - make the free end of the arbor as shallow as possible (I mean the washer at the end where you tighten the saw), use a recessed mounting screw. Everything that protrudes from the free end of the saw limits how close to an edge you can place a slit. Chris

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Heidelberg, Victoria
    Age
    79
    Posts
    2,251

    Default Slitting saw arbor

    Some time ago, I made a slitting saw arbor for my Unimat lathe.

    It was designed to screw onto the spindle, but could just as easily be held in a chuck.

    Here is a link to that project that includes pictures and a pdf drawing.

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/mi...w-arbor-55835/

    Ken

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