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Thread: Slitting Saw Holders
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10th December 2012, 03:07 AM #1
Slitting Saw Holders
I have ordered 2 slit saw blades of 100 x 22 x 1.2 mm.
While I am waiting for them to arrive. I would like to know what is the best way to make a holder for them.
I can make one with a straight shank to be gripped in my lathe chuck and collet holders, or I may fit a morse taper shank, but them I have to remove the lathe chuck each time I want to use it.
What is the easiest way forward. (How can I prevent the blade from running off-center? I see that this is apparently a common occurrence).Regards
Johan
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10th December 2012, 07:00 AM #2Philomath in training
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Provided that the saw blade is perpendicular to the axis, a slight amount of 'off centre' is not a problem. There will always be a high tooth. It comes down to how high. I'd go straight shaft. If you hold the arbor in a 3 jaw chuck you will have the eccentricity of the 3 jaw in there to add to your value of off centre anyway.
In this thread about half way down the page slitting saw arbors are discussed.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ne...29/index2.html
If you turn the shaft first and then hold that in a collet or dial it in with a 4 jaw you should be able to get the bore pretty close to concentric (although it is the clamping surface that will determine squareness).
Michael
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10th December 2012, 07:56 AM #3Cba
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Make it a straight shank for collet chuck. Do not worry about a little off center, there is always a high tooth, but every time you mount the slitting saw to the arbor it will be another high toohs so it will still wear evenly. More critical is a wobbling slitting saw, as this cuts a wider slit (this can be used on purpose on an arbor with two tapered washers to adjust wobble, that way one can cut with just one slitting saw a wide range of slit widths, but that is another project).
I once made a 22mm slitting saw arbor starting from an old bolt. It was about M20x100 size. Turned the threaded part into the shaft. I can give you a few tips:
- make the arbor long enough, you find you often need the added reach
- make the diameter of the arbor head as small as possible, because this limits how deep you can slit. A 100mm diameter saw on a 40mm arbor head can only cut 100-40=60/2=30mm deep!
- do NOT use the keyway slot usually provided by the slitting saw. If you do the saw cannot slip when it catches and it will shatter, especially the thinner saws like yours.
- make the free end of the arbor as shallow as possible (I mean the washer at the end where you tighten the saw), use a recessed mounting screw. Everything that protrudes from the free end of the saw limits how close to an edge you can place a slit. Chris
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10th December 2012, 09:47 AM #4Product designer retired
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Slitting saw arbor
Some time ago, I made a slitting saw arbor for my Unimat lathe.
It was designed to screw onto the spindle, but could just as easily be held in a chuck.
Here is a link to that project that includes pictures and a pdf drawing.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/mi...w-arbor-55835/
Ken
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