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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gammaboy View Post
    Anyone see some humour in Grade 8 bolts on wooden spoked wheels?

    Got one of the original bolts handy? How hard is it?
    Not really, I assume he picked grade 8 bolts as cheap source I known material but I don't know. For all I know he has a bucket full of them. Should I go to the big B and buy some Zenith bolts or just turn them up from any old black bar? I guess it would probably work.
    I have a bolt but no way to measure how hard it is other than a file.


    Thanks for the links Chris, some interesting stuff there.

    Hi Frank,
    The bottom bolt in the picture would appear to be exactly what I am dealing with, necking included . I've past the info along....though my BIL may know this it cant hurt to ask.

    This may all be for nort*. My BIL replied this morning Keith Wilson is the guy building his wheels. He added that he has found some bolts in USA and is waiting for them to arrive, though isn't 100% sure as yet they are what he needed. Fingers crossed.

    Stuart

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  3. #17
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    Jun 2008
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    Victoria, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    This may all be for nort*. My BIL replied this morning Keith Wilson is the guy building his wheels. He added that he has found some bolts in USA and is waiting for them to arrive, though isn't 100% sure as yet they are what he needed. Fingers crossed.
    Stuart
    Tis not for naught, why buy from the USA when he can get a better product made in Australia.. Personally I'd still forge them, in spite of the fact it might be easier to machine them, for the simple reason that you are replacing an antique/vintage part that was originally forged, so you'd be staying true to the originals, at least in some small way.

    Heating up the head of a bolt and hammering into a die block seems like it should be easy enough, might take a bit of practice to get the technique sorted.

    Ray

  4. #18
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    Hi Ray,
    I'm tempted.... but I am trying not to,,,,, if I didnt have a todo list that extended out of sight I might just give it a go Maybe next time I have the BBQ fired up, see now look what you've done lol
    I was hoping to use a press as I dont really have anything to bash on... but then its been a long time, maybe I dont need to bash that hard?

    Stuart

  5. #19
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    Feb 2013
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    Laidley, SE Qld
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    ...........
    This may all be for nort*. My BIL replied this morning Keith Wilson is the guy building his wheels. He added that he has found some bolts in USA and is waiting for them to arrive, though isn't 100% sure as yet they are what he needed...........
    Be interesting to know a landed price when they get here. I reckon that from round stock on manual gear there would be about 10 minutes in a bolt once you had a system going.

  6. #20
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob ward View Post
    Be interesting to know a landed price when they get here. I reckon that from round stock on manual gear there would be about 10 minutes in a bolt once you had a system going.
    Well assuming what turns up are suitable. You'd be saving $US4.25/hr+postage-material.

    I'll ask the BIL for a landed price if they are suitable and nothing else came with them.

    Stuart

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Cairns, Q
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Well assuming what turns up are suitable. You'd be saving $US4.25/hr+postage-material.

    I'll ask the BIL for a landed price if they are suitable and nothing else came with them.

    Stuart
    Hi Stuart,

    Just for laughs I dug back through my old e-mails to check Peter Jackson's price for comparison. It will be interesting to see how it compares with the landed cost of the American ones. It was further back than I remembered, August 2008. The bolts with the (presumably) correct thin nut nut with a larger hex than standard were $3.50 each, with a packing, handling and postage charge of $20 for 32 bolts with nuts. I didn't end up buying them, since they still required modification to both length and head to use them on the Chevs, but used coach bolts instead.

    The heads on the Peter Jackson bolts were turned, I think. I seem to remember a shallow tooling mark in the form of a spiral on the head, though not certain of this now. I don't think there was anything special about the steel in the originals. It was quite soft. The nuts were originally secured by hitting or pressing a triple diamond shaped depression in the projecting end of the bolt, which mushroomed and expanded the bolt end at the nut. This was done with sufficient force to bend the shank of the occasional bolt.

    By the way, I have seen some of Keith Wilson's wheels - they are a real work of art.

    Frank.

  8. #22
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    Hi Frank,

    The price above doesn't include nuts. US$0.75 set of 6 "correct thin style", doesn't say anything about the diameter.
    I'll let you know.
    Still......making the bolts looked easy compared to billet drums lol


    Stuart

  9. #23
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    Jul 2006
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    Adelaide
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    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    T so you'd be staying true to the originals, at least in some small way.
    nothing wrong with a little bit of intentional aging if your trying to make new look original

    one would not know the difference.

  10. #24
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    Just heard back from the BIL. The bolts have turned up, they are what he needed, though the diameter of the heads is about 2mm larger, he is yet to make up his mind whether that worries him enough to grind up a tool.

    Prices as above + $12 for postage.

    Stuart

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sydney
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    And just to demonstrate a first class way of forging such a bolt like thing (yes, they are up-scaled alot!);
    Chain anchors shank forging - YouTube


    A.
    'Waratah' spring hammer by Hands & Scott c.1911- 20, 'Duffy, Todd & Williams' spring hammer c.1920, Premo lathe- 1953, Premo filing machine.

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