Thread: Solutions for cutting bar stock needed

Originally Posted by Pete F

Michael I made up some additional saws that bolt to the existing jaws. I welded in a spigot and tapped it for a handle so I can cut short stock as you describe. It will hold even the shortest of round stock just fine, just adjust the amount of thread coming through to the same size as the stock you need to hold.

Thanks Pete. It's another thing that I've thought about as usually there is a hunt on for a piece of something to wedge in the other side of the jaws. If I have an inch or so of stock I'm not too bad but the design of this saw is that there is a wide gap under the blade and the level on the non-clamped side is lower too. I tried setting up something similar (extended jaws) but the stock would just not stay vertical.

Originally Posted by Bryan

I'm sure it would cope with anything a girly bandsaw could throw at it.

I keep forgetting that real machinists have power hacksaws

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

I keep forgetting that real machinists have power hacksaws

Well maybe not, but a hacksaw will sure test your work holding. That was my point.

Originally Posted by Michael G

Thanks Pete. It's another thing that I've thought about as usually there is a hunt on for a piece of something to wedge in the other side of the jaws. If I have an inch or so of stock I'm not too bad but the design of this saw is that there is a wide gap under the blade and the level on the non-clamped side is lower too. I tried setting up something similar (extended jaws) but the stock would just not stay vertical.



I keep forgetting that real machinists have power hacksaws

Michael

I can understand having a wide gap under the blade, as my saw also has a wide gap. The outer support surface at a lower level? That would be painful. What is it there for?

Dean

Originally Posted by Michael G

Thanks Pete. It's another thing that I've thought about as usually there is a hunt on for a piece of something to wedge in the other side of the jaws. If I have an inch or so of stock I'm not too bad but the design of this saw is that there is a wide gap under the blade and the level on the non-clamped side is lower too. I tried setting up something similar (extended jaws) but the stock would just not stay vertical.

Michael

I may not have understood you but think my saw is similar Michael, it doesn't make any difference. By bolting on accessory saws and sawing through them the jaws then extend right out to the blade. With a jack as shown on the opposite end I can wrench down quite hard on round bar and I've never had any want to drop off vertical. As a tight-wad I use every last millimetre I can too! The vice as standard with these saws is rubbish, almost useless in my opinion, at least for cutting stock for the lathe. However a few simple modifications makes it better, though a long way from perfect. For example I need to unbolt the moveable jaw any time I cut mitres. Fortunately that's not too often, but I do enough fabrication cutting that it's a bit of a PIA when I do. The additional jaws are counterbored bolts on the front, so it doesn't take long however, just wish a bit more thought (or any thought for that matter) had gone into the original design.

Originally Posted by Michael G

If I have an inch or so of stock I'm not too bad but the design of this saw is that there is a wide gap under the blade and the level on the non-clamped side is lower too. I tried setting up something similar (extended jaws) but the stock would just not stay vertical.

Thats part of what the angle iron is about. It gives you a fixed jaw on the other side of the blade and there is no gap/a level base. I find the tipping down more of a problem than twisting, but the bed on my bandsaw is pretty level so its only an issue when cutting short stock to lengths less than about 10mm.

Still stealing your idea though.

Stuart

Well ive been no help with solutions I certainly am impressed with what you came up with. I would not have thought to clamp it in the other dimension. No wasted offcuts to be seen! Im going to use that idea.

Cheers.

Simon

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I would just use a longer thread in my existing setup

That's a carbon copy to what I did Fred. I just turned down the end of some all-thread I had here for the jack and TIGed a handle on it, but I agree the longer thread is good if cutting very thick stock.

Another thing is a large plate (135 X 150 X 16) with drilled and tapped holes at 20 X 30 intervals on the base, a piece 39 X 9 for a fence on the fixed jaws side. Used in conjunction with clamps from the mill this was used in a power hacksaw, without pieces touching the back fence, this was taken from MEW 179. MEW 187 has an update showing a piece 100 diam X 40 being cut in half 20mm long, this edition also has some good mods for the band saw.
Kryn

Originally Posted by Big Shed

I would just use a longer thread in my existing setup

snip

There are designs on the net that have a locking bolt which releases the jack and allows it to slide in and out. Much quicker and less winding in and out. I just have a bit of All-thread in there at the moment. It turns free so does not need a handle or head. I want to make the quick adjust one at some point.

Dean

[QUOTE]I keep forgetting that real machinists have power hacksaws[QUOTE]
[QUOTE]I'm sure it would cope with anything a girly bandsaw could throw at it.[QUOTE]

Guess I just better take my girly bandsaw and go All jokes aside some good ideas that I could use on this unit and the smaller one I have.

I kept the quick release "nut" and bolt from my long dead abrasive cut off saw. I have been thinking of using it as a jacking bolt for the BS. It will happen one day when i get the s##ts with finding the right size packer....

Ew

I honestly wouldn't be bothered Ewan, unless you were constantly going between very large diameter and very small diameter stock I've found the screw no real inconvenience as I just spin it between my thumb and finger to set it. It doesn't need to be a precise setting. I don't think the handle is necessary however and it could be left off.

One thing I noticed today that I decided to finally take care of. The moveable jaw was leaning back a little, so when clamping very tall stock the stock would vibrate a little. It wouldn't be noticed with the standard jaws, but the accessory jaws amplify the error. It wasn't much effort to whip it off and machine it square. It may have even been better to lean it in a little at the top in hindsight, but it seems to be clamping tall things more securely now anyway.

Originally Posted by Michael G

After writing my last post I wondered whether I was over thinking things, so went out to the shed and played around with some stuff. I got to a piece of angle in the saw vice and a vise grip style clamp and thought it might do it - so I turned on the saw and it seemed solid enough. Around 3/4 of the way through I stopped the saw and repositioned the clamp, using a piece of sheet metal to keep the kerf open and avoid pinching the blade.

Attachment 316606 Attachment 316604
End result is that it did the job so well I'm now wondering whether I should make up a cutting jig based on this - something that will enable some adjustment of the blank thickness and perhaps extending all the way across the jaws to lessen the tendancy to twist.

Michael

Thank you Michael, worked a treat for me yesterday slotting the ends of some bar.

Ew