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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Rural Victoria
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    359

    Default A sorta-dodgy micro brake press

    I am sure you can buy this tooling from H&F etc but you can make your own. This useful for making small brackets etc on your shop press. The material here is 3.0 thick galvanised mild steel 50mm wide. With wider tooling you could make small boxes from with longer folds in thinner material.

    My set up here is still a little bit unfinished and could be improved by making a mounting block for the punch to attach it securely to the end of the ram. The shop press is home made with the ram 'borrowed' from a pipe bender (a device that seemed to be somewhat useless) and does tend to flex a bit and requires additional bracing. This has the net effect of occasionally shooting out the workpiece, punch and die from the press at high velocity creating aggravation and inappropriate language. No doubt this situation could be improved.



    The home made tooling, made from some 16mm (I think?) SHS and 6.0mm plate..... cheap!



    Lining up with the fold line:



    Applying pressure:



    A 90-ish degree fold:



    Correcting an over-fold on round bar:



    Finished brackets, with nice tight inside fold radius:



    A vee block and better tooling could be easily made on the milling machine and could then cater for different fold radii etc. However I am waiting for the parts to arrive from Germany to get my roundtoit functioning again.



    Something to get the gears turning perhaps?

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  3. #2
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    I have seen some good right ups on these over the years and they look to work great. It's just another on on the list for me, LOL I have a home made 4 ft folder but it will only do 1-1.2mm at 4ft, of thicker shorter sections. This sort of thing would be more handy with bending flat bar.

    Dave

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Rural Victoria
    Posts
    359

    Default

    Occasionally on Factoryhub, Ebay etc you may find small fabricated (ie DIY) brake presses. There is no reason why you couldn't use multiple rams with the correct valves and a hydraulic pump. However, if you have the space, the money and the desire to own a press over 6' long it would be easier to buy one.

  5. #4
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    I would be happy enough with something like yours,

    Dave

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    3,149

    Default

    What I've seen so far is fine. I'm still waiting to see the dodgy bit...

    Michael

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,557

    Default

    That looks like tidy work, Squasher. Better than putting it in a vice and smiting.
    My press experience is limited, so I found this recent thread on PM quite an eye-opener: Hydraulic Press Safety

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Rural Victoria
    Posts
    359

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    That looks like tidy work, Squasher. Better than putting it in a vice and smiting.
    My press experience is limited, so I found this recent thread on PM quite an eye-opener: Hydraulic Press Safety


    Yes, I admit it is a little dodgy. As mentioned in the OP sometimes stuff does fly out. I do not recommend that anyone else does it in a dodgy fashion... at least attach the 'press tooling' to the ram and the platform properly.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay Qld
    Posts
    3,466

    Default

    Hi Gerbilsquasher.
    To improve your safety margin avoid visits to the doctor. i would make the following adjustments.

    1. Fit some rails underneath the black plate in Pic #4 to stop back and forward slippage.

    2. Do a similar thing to locate the vee blade on center with the plate under ram shaft.The vee blade would ideally would have a plate welded to it in a tee configuration which could then be aligned with flats or angles under the ram plate.

    3. Should you feel the need to press material that could fracture ,ie; cast iron ,fit a containment grill across the front press face.



    By keeping your pressings centered and contained you will greatly reduce prospects of the wayward hardware whistling past your head.

    Grahame

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Toowoomba Qld.
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,792

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    Do a similar thing to locate the vee blade on center with the plate under ram shaft.The vee blade would ideally would have a plate welded to it in a tee configuration which could then be aligned with flats or angles under the ram plate.
    Or weld the blade (via a backing plate) to a collar of pipe that fits around the ram. Pipe is easy to alter in diameter by cutting a slice out of it and spreading or squeezing it to suit.

    Nice idea though, and something I've been threatening to do with my press. I've also thought about combining a generic pipe bender with the press.

    Cheers
    Andy Mac
    Change is inevitable, growth is optional.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Sydney,Australia
    Posts
    3,157

    Default

    You all do realise that you can buy a similar setup from several on-line suppliers (such as Lee Valley) that just goes in a standard metal workers vice - takes up much less space, no flying bits of metal, springs or hydraulics etc.? Armstrong powered

    Its really simple & you could make one from a chunky piece of scrap with a hacksaw & file (I'm too lazy, I bought mine). When you are finished it just goes back in the drawer.

    There are even ones with adjustable fingers if you look around (Micromark IIRC)

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Nth Qld
    Posts
    715

    Default

    Looks really good, I have a double acting hydraulic cylinder I'd like to build a narrow press around. Being able to pull as well as push would allow the use of broaches for keyways ,squares and hexes.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
    Age
    58
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    2,557

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bsrlee View Post
    Its really simple & you could make one from a chunky piece of scrap with a hacksaw & file (I'm too lazy, I bought mine).
    Got a pic?

  14. #13
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    Got a pic?
    Here you go Bryan.
    H&F have had them for 1-2 years now

    https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Vi...sbrake-Benders

    Dave

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    2,765

    Default

    My homemade press uses an 8 T jack so it is mounted up the other way. I have a plate under it with a 1 inch rod welded on. Interchangable bits are attached to this rod. I have used a piece of channel with cross bracing welded in to bend 16 mm square. I am in the process of making a sheet metal bender that will take 1100mm width. That was the angle length I had, 1100 plus hinges. Hinges are 25mm diam, 16mm pin, welded on.

    Is that the tip of the ram sticking out past the metal plate with the springs. A bit hard to tell from the pictures. From Grahame's comments he is under the impression the plate does the pushing. Just nosy.

    I think somthing of the likes of the angle block could be easily welded up from bits of plate and a V point to attach to the ram of the press. May look a bit rough but should work. I have a heap of angled brackets salvaged from work and need to make up some angled brackets for guttering. Got to check if the ones I have will do or if I have to make more. If so I will be making said jig.

    Dean

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    2,500

    Default dies

    Hi

    I made up a few basic dies to press out some bits for a new Land Rover tailgate I made

    It worked out very good, I have a cheap Super Crap auto press , but it managed to press the aluminium sheet out OK .

    The original method of fixing the tailgate together was by spot welds . I used C/ sunk rivets and liquid nails . It's now a stronger tailgate than the original method of spot welding

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