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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    adelaide
    Posts
    667

    Default speed feed and cut rates

    ok im stupid is there and easy way to work out the correct speed /feed and cut depth rates for a t/c set up
    i been practising on a piece of cast
    rpm 75
    diameter 1.7inches/43 mm aprox
    feed rate .0021per rev
    cut depth .040 inch

    at about the machines limits i think
    but i would love to here comments
    also should i be using coolant ( it seems to give a better finish if i do but only realy doing roughing cuts )

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney
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    63
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    3,566

    Default

    Check the web for various cutting speed data,that will let you know SFM or MM.
    For your feed rate you normally dont exceed your nose radious.
    For the DOC for roughing what ever the machine will handle without stalling,for finishing maybe .005" to .010".
    When Im turning 45mm DIA cast on my Hercus I run at 300/400 RPM,between .030/.060" DOC and .002 to .006" feed.I alter the DOC for finishing
    You can use coolant if you want to if you feel the job might be getting overly hot,but normally on a smaller lathe it shouldnt be needed for cast.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    4,304

    Default

    I take it t/c means Tungsten Carbide??

    If so, the appropriate feed and speed will be written on the box of inserts.

    75rpm on a 43mm round is way too slow for tungsten carbide.... Also you do not use coolant on TC unless you can pour heaps onto it like they do in CNC..

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    adelaide
    Posts
    667

    Default

    thanks guys i was experimenting with the different feeds and speeds but wasnt quite game to up the doc @400rpm ......putting a new motor on in next few days with forward and reverse so ill get a bit more adventurous with the settings
    and yes t/c is tungsten carbide but chines budget version with no name inserts who knows what there specs are but its fun experimenting .ok on the no need for coolant too just need to cover my arm where the hot bits land
    Last edited by tanii51; 25th October 2009 at 02:21 AM. Reason: left some out

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney
    Age
    63
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    Default

    Are the tools your using positive rake.
    If you like and have the room cut your self a little bit of shim either steel strapping,brass,aluminium you could even use a piece of plastic milk bottle (although this has a tendency to melt ) to form a small guard just shy of your work piece and cutting tool.
    Bend the end of it up slightly this should deflect the chips from flying up and landing on your hand or arm,will also be good for brass or bronze,experiment with placement to suit your needs.
    The shim doesnt need to be overly thick .010" to .020" is usually fine.
    How did you get on with your mounting plate?

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    adelaide
    Posts
    667

    Default

    sounds like a great idea making a deflector ...... as for progress had to take a bit more off the outer diameter with the 3 jaw chuck holding the centre section so it would fit better in the 4 jaw on the outer (the jaws were at maximum and wasnt holding it as well as i wanted )
    spent the rest of the day trying to work out the reversing switch contacts but im almost sure its not the right kind of switch )
    I finally got adventurous and tried out a a tuegatec tipped tool loaned by a forum memeber WOW what a difference a tool makes you definatly get what you pay for

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    4,304

    Default

    Here is a nomograph that you can save and print out for the workshop...

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...enomograph.jpg

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    adelaide
    Posts
    667

    Default

    thanks rc just what i was looking for

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