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13th May 2014, 07:24 PM #16SENIOR MEMBER
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some update on the process of restore this level
the base will be send to Ewan to grind .
Peter
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13th May 2014 07:24 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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14th May 2014, 02:30 AM #17
Grind??? What do mean, 'grind'???
The base needs to be scraped - properly - to within a few micro inches or so and 40 points pre square inch bearing.....
If you just want a ground one, buy a Chinese one
Cheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
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14th May 2014, 11:29 AM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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14th May 2014, 07:46 PM #19
It's probably just fine - but I think precision tools should have the 'right' finish and 'look'....
Cheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
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14th May 2014, 10:43 PM #20Cba
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The level is probably going to be used on ground surfaces? If so I see no advantage in scraping the level.
Also, I believe that standard Starrett model 98 "machinist" levels were not scraped from factory. The Starrett clone from Rabone that I have is not scraped either. It could be that the much more sensitive (and expensive) Starrett 199 "Master Precision" levels are/were scraped, I do not know?
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14th May 2014, 11:54 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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yes it will be used for lathe set up so i would say it will be used in a grounded surface . please see the picture of the base of my 98 level condition . it have some rust and when i clean the rust it leave some pitting so i thought send it to surface grinder to re-ground the base is a good idea . i don't know about the 199 model so i have no comment.
regards
Peter
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15th May 2014, 07:47 AM #22GOLD MEMBER
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grind or scrape
I understand what joes saying but u think grinding would be a good start and maybe scraped at a later date.
aaron
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15th May 2014, 10:15 AM #23GOLD MEMBER
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15th May 2014, 11:15 AM #24
No need to worry about the grinder.....It will hold .001mm over that size with ease.
As for holding, without having the level in my hands it is a bit hard but am guessing that putting both ends in a vice would be the best, we shall see.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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15th May 2014, 11:33 AM #25GOLD MEMBER
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15th May 2014, 11:55 AM #26
Says the rock, my millimess and a holding meathod that does not stress the test piece at all.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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15th May 2014, 02:51 PM #27Senior Member
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As this is not a high precision level there is no need for micron precision on the base. It really is not even suitable for setting up a lathe when trying to remove or introduce twist in the bed as the vial is calibrated to .005"/foot/division.
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15th May 2014, 06:49 PM #28SENIOR MEMBER
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15th May 2014, 07:20 PM #29SENIOR MEMBER
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15th May 2014, 08:45 PM #30Distracted Member
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They're great for getting you within range of a finer level. 'Roughing in' if you like. The 98 series is described as a 'mechanic's level'. I think that word used to mean fitter/machinist. I guess they were considered ok for setting up run-of-the-mill machines doing ordinary work. Which probably means most of us here. The finer ones are needed for rebuilding work.
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