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Thread: Starting a Stent tool grinder.
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27th January 2015, 04:37 PM #16.
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Andre,
When you make tee nuts to suit the slots, make them long not square to spread the load on the delicate section over the slot. It probably would never be a problem it you clamp directly to the table but a bolt passing through air between the clamped item and the table might break the cast iron above the slot.
Nice to see the Atlas being put to work.
Bob.
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27th January 2015 04:37 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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27th January 2015, 04:46 PM #17future machinist
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Yes Bob that was my only concern the thickness of the tee slot. I will make longer tee nuts thanks
The shaper and the mill are working really well I am very happy Next I have to make or buy a rack for the table traverse that should be funBETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE
Andre
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27th January 2015, 04:55 PM #18.
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Hercus sell racks. http://www.hercus.com.au/gear-racks/ I bought one a few years back to suit the pinion on a mill table feed they offered for the little No.O mill. From memory it wasn't too stiffly priced.
If you go the DIY route speak with Michael G. THE gear aficionado.
BT
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28th January 2015, 09:39 AM #19
Nice to to see the CVA in action.
I can show you a scary video on just how badly climb milling can go, i think the bigger the machine the worse it can be. I always get a better finish climbing though, and its better on the cutters.
Simon,
I get that diagonal pattern from my shaper too, i put it down to gear noise, if you change the stroke length the angle of the lines change, I have not counted it but i reckon each individual mark is caused by each tooth on the bull gear. Now if they were helical gears.....1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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28th January 2015, 09:40 AM #201915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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28th January 2015, 03:22 PM #21future machinist
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I think all off.cupcakes racks are to large I would need to mill it down and I don't like my chances spend a day surface grinding.
BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE
Andre
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28th January 2015, 04:03 PM #22.
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Andre,
I've bought gears from HPC Gears in Chesterfield UK. They sell racks and pinions - http://www.hpcgears.com/n/products/r...ks_pinions.php
Could be worth a look.
Bob.
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30th January 2015, 06:08 PM #23GOLD MEMBER
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That's interesting Ueee. I guess It's really all it can be is the Bull gear. Helical bear gear, that would be almost at good as a hydraulic shaper!
WRT climb milling, after much reading when I first bought my mill I was lead to believe it should never be tempted on a small or cheap mill. Only to be used on a good quality mill with nice/precision fitting surfaces. My 45 size mill certainly does not fit that category but I do manage climb milling successfully. In fact I do it after the final pass as a spring cut at slightly higher RPM and slower feed. Gets beautiful results everytime.
Wouldn't attempt it under any other circumstances besides a spring cut though. Not with my machine.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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30th January 2015, 07:39 PM #24Philomath in training
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The thing that kills with climb milling is backlash - the cutter will tend to pull into the work and if there is some play in the screws etc, the cutter will take a bigger bite than it should and produces trouble instead of a nicely machined surface.
As a spring cut with relatively unworn screws & nuts (and tight gibs) you should get away with it but you need to be careful. That's the main reason why I regard milling in a lathe as a potentially hazardous operation especially if the lathe is one that has seen some work - you do need to think about what it is you are doing.
Michael
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30th January 2015, 08:03 PM #25Pink 10EE owner
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I boughttwo 16dp gears off Hercus for the 10EE trying to stay Australian made... They sent me one that looked like it was made in the 1930's and it was horrendously priced... I could have bought them from Boston gear in the US and they still would have been cheaper with postage..
Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
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30th January 2015, 08:04 PM #26Pink 10EE owner
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9th February 2015, 07:04 AM #27Philomath in training
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Andre, tried to PM but your inbox is full.
Did you want that rack I made up? PM me an address if you do.
Michael
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15th February 2015, 10:40 PM #28future machinist
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Well I received Michaels rack on Friday afternoon and today I gave it a lick on the grinder
BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE
Andre
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16th February 2015, 06:56 AM #29Philomath in training
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Just remember that the rack is too tall as it is Andre - you will need to put it on your mill and take some off the back. It's a bad habit I have - My nieces and nephews complain that when they ask for help with homework I never help them "properly" as I always just give them enough to get started and don't finish the problem for them.
Incidentally, that open terminal box on your SG should be covered. You run the risk of metallic dust settling in there and once there is enough to bridge the terminals...
Michael
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16th February 2015, 08:27 AM #30future machinist
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We were using the vfd off the grinder to test the mill and I didn't realise that the cover was missing till I was already on the second side but the cover will definitely but put back on before I use the grinder again.
BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE
Andre
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