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  1. #31
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    Great stuff

    Video would be even better than pics 😃

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  3. #32
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    Made a cupping tool today. Got the blisters to prove it!! It seems there is one or two particular hammers that always give me blisters. Maybe the handles are too smooth or have a varnish on them that the others don't???

    DSC_0247.JPGDSC_0248.JPGDSC_0249.JPGDSC_0250.JPG
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  4. #33
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Real nice.
    I'm lovin this thread, please keep it up.

    I haven't forgotten about those tongs either...

    Here is a pic of some lighter ones, with a 90deg bend in them. Mine are straight. http://blacksmith.org/blacksmith/wp-...adingtongs.jpg

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  5. #34
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    Ew, Those look like giant circlip pliers.
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  6. #35
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    made the top tool fuller last week. this week decided to take a break and play. forged a reo knife and a bolt knife. I didn't forget the bolt blade to shape as I hadn't decided on the profile so it'll be ground later. Need to build a knife grinder so I can hollow grind the blade.
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  7. #36
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    wow
    this looks like fun

    great work
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  8. #37
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    This is all the tools so far. I think tomorrow I'll be using all those to make a rounding hammer.

    I have never welded before and I wanted to use my striking anvil tomorrow making the hammer. The welds seem strong I made them big Justin case I didn't do them so good. The ugly wasn't intentional. The weld on the front is the first weld. There is bracing and cross bracing under the top plate as well. The top plate is just tacked in place to stopping moving. When the top gets too beaten up it can be turned over.
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  9. #38
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    Still short something for the back foot, the other feet are tacked in the four corners in casae I can't find something matching and have to change them. The large feet are needed to stop this thing from being driven into the ground.
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  10. #39
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    Could not get the 3.33" bar hot enough to easily hot cut.


    So while we waited for it to cool I made some tongs.





    With the hammer we are going for 3.5-3.75lbs. So of the 3.33" bar we needed 95cm this allows for a small amount to be lost during forging to get the weight desired. Unfortunately the abrasive cut off saw later used to to cut the steel deviated 5mm during the cut both ends so I have to grind 5mm to square each end and that will give me a 90mm billet. The old power hacksaw only cut into another piece of stock about 8mm before rounding all the teeth an stopping with a bimetal blade ) This is some tough steel.
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  11. #40
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    Looks impressive Dale,

    I have some 12"x12" square plate you can have next time you are passing through..

    On second glance, the plates you have on the two feet already look like railway spike plates... I have some of those somewhere too?

    Ray

  12. #41
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    Ray, Thanks for the offer I'll take you up on it. Have you had anymore thought on a few days smithing vacation?

    The feet I used are railway dog plates but not the usual ones. These are flat and uniform, the regular ones which i also have a few the center where the railway track sits is angled and has a small ridge each side of the inset.

    On the list of to do are, Coke forge, gas forge, knife grinder (72x2" belt grinder), a power hammer of some sort (wish list). and a shed extension to house it all lol.


    Did you have to buy you furnace refractory materials in bulk or can you get small amounts of cement, ITC, & wool?
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  13. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    Did you have to buy you furnace refractory materials in bulk or can you get small amounts of cement, ITC, & wool?
    The ITC is expensive, and there might be cheaper alternatives... Ewan was mentioning some furnace lining stuff when he was here the other day....

    The cement and kaowool ( cerachem zircon fibre blanket ) are available in moderate quantities...

    And yes, I'm interested in a few days hammering... just not sure when...

    Ray

  14. #43
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Super 1600 is the stuff Matt used on my furnace, and he uses it on forges. You can buy forge kits from him, Isowool, rigidiser, castable for the base etc. Mattm82 on ABF.

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  15. #44
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    Used these


    To forge this

    After a light sand and wheeling


    Should be about 4lbs
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  16. #45
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    One flat face and a rounding face.
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

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