Thread: small steel round head slotted wood screws #2, #3, & #4

Originally Posted by eskimo

A tapered thread just allows it to cut while its pulling its way in to the timber...does'nt it?

While I guess in thoery the taper would also let you have the same holding power with less steel(not so important these days). Being a one off you can predrill and if needed preform the threads.

How about brazing square heads to c/s screws?

Stuart

Originally Posted by Ueee

What sort of timber are you using?

An old trick is to tap the timber to except the thread then fill the threaded hole up with thin cyano, you can get a brand called zap at most model shops. The thin glue will soak into the timber and make it super hard, then just run the tap back through it to clean up the threads. Of course a course thread is preferable.

Cheers,
Ew

Looks like I might be cheating after all....


How to Tap Threads in Wood | The Wood Whisperer

Originally Posted by Stustoys

While I guess in thoery the taper would also let you have the same holding power with less steel(not so important these days). Being a one off you can predrill and if needed preform the threads.

How about brazing square heads to c/s screws?

Stuart

I did think of welding square head as braze wont blacken

But might try the above threading bit and see if it will work..and also going to try the glue thingy as Ueee suggests

Wow a real tap! I just gash the end of a bolt and use that or just drive the bolt straight in.

Stuart

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Wow a real tap! I just gash the end of a bolt and use that or just drive the bolt straight in.

Stuart

He isnt as rough as you and I

Originally Posted by eskimo

He isnt as rough as you and I

Its not rough, its roll forming

For really 'special' screws and bolts try this mob:

Welcome to BlacksmithBolt.com

I have used them, and they seem to be another of those small, customer oriented US businesses.

Only downside is they use PayPal for international orders, but they will ship to any address you specify in the 'comments' field rather than your PayPal address, in case you need them delivered to work or a P.O Box (like me).

Originally Posted by bsrlee

Only downside is they use PayPal for international orders, but they will ship to any address you specify in the 'comments' field rather than your PayPal address, in case you need them delivered to work or a P.O Box (like me).

Don't know what the "downside" of using Paypal for international orders is?

As for delivery addresses, you can fill in any delivery address you want in Paypal when you pay. Paypal will even remember every delivery addres you have used and next time you can select that particular delivery address from a list in your Paypal.

I have used this feature in the past when I am away from home or when I buy presents for my grandchildren and have them delivered to their address rather than mine.

Originally Posted by Ueee

What sort of timber are you using?

An old trick is to tap the timber to except the thread then fill the threaded hole up with thin cyano, you can get a brand called zap at most model shops. The thin glue will soak into the timber and make it super hard, then just run the tap back through it to clean up the threads. Of course a course thread is preferable.

Cheers,
Ew

Got some Cyno

But now I am having 2nd thoughts....

The timber is American Oak...I've just recalled that this stuff turns black over time when in direct contact with steel

Maybe brass screws are best option????

decisions decisions....

Originally Posted by eskimo

Got some Cyno

But now I am having 2nd thoughts....

The timber is American Oak...I've just recalled that this stuff turns black over time when in direct contact with steel

Maybe brass screws are best option????

decisions decisions....

All oak timbers including the Oz versions will blacken when in contact with bare steel due to oxidation. Sealing the timber or using properly coated screws should avoid this. Stainless steel or brass fixings will prevent it happening.

Dean

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

All oak timbers including the Oz versions will blacken when in contact with bare steel due to oxidation. Sealing the timber or using properly coated screws should avoid this. Stainless steel or brass fixings will prevent it happening.

Dean

I had thought of stainless, but they will look very very odd on my model 1857 cannon

can one be assured that sealing the screws will positively stop the tannins from reacting with the steel?

I have ordered some small steel from uk ebay ....what should I use for sealing?.. polyurethane varnish

brass is looking better n better ...I can antique the brass screws to help make them more fitting

Originally Posted by eskimo

I had thought of stainless, but they will look very very odd on my model 1852 cannon

can one be assured that sealing the screws will positively stop the tannins from reacting with the steel?

I have ordered some small steel from uk ebay ....what should I use for sealing?.. polyurethane varnish

brass is looking better n better ...I can antique the brass screws to help make them more fitting

I think it would stay sealed. The tannins will only react if they have moisture to migrate. I guess these models are not going to be outdoors are they? Polyurethane varnish would be ok. Using brass would be more certain tho.

Dean

I have no intention of leaving out doors......providing it stays together after christening