Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 16 to 29 of 29
Thread: Strength of phosphoric acid?
-
24th November 2011, 09:37 PM #16Mechanical Butcher
- Join Date
- Oct 2004
- Location
- Southern Highlands NSW
- Posts
- 920
I like to buy wholesale. Hope it sees me out!
Jordan
-
24th November 2011 09:37 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
25th November 2011, 12:10 AM #17
The Rust.
Hi All,
Hey, what is wrong with a bit of Vinegar & a bit of Steel wool to get that rust off.
A dash sight cheaper than $35.
Yes, I've used Coro Dip, & yes, it worked fine, BUT, so does Vinegar.
I use 8 to 1, being 8 of water to 1 of Vinegar & leave in a Plastic Container.
I leave mine outside & cover it with a bit of Plywood to help stop Evaporation.
I suppose I'm lucky, that I'm allowed to clean my rusty bits in the Laundry Sink. I use a fair bit of Washing Powder, in hot water,& use a Brass Brush to wash all the rubbish off, then run it under the Hot Tap & dry with an old towel.Regards,
issatree.
Have Lathe, Wood Travel.
-
25th November 2011, 03:13 AM #18
-
25th November 2011, 07:17 AM #19
-
25th November 2011, 09:41 AM #20
The Vinegar.
Hi all,
Well you may laugh, Ha, Ha, but My Mum did use Vinegar on us when we were silly enough to get Sunburnt . It really took the soreness out of the burn.
So what were the words of wisdom about using Vinegar & Water on Rusty bits.Regards,
issatree.
Have Lathe, Wood Travel.
-
25th November 2011, 11:47 AM #21GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Location
- melbourne australia
- Posts
- 2,634
-
25th November 2011, 01:13 PM #22SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 2,340
Yes that's correct Chris. I can't recall the compound that's formed, but it basically protects the steel. I haven't tried vinegar, but I've tried several other acids and the part will literally rust before your eyes once it's removed from them. I use phosphoric acid before painting if there's light rust, any heavy rust I drag out the big-guns and just wipe it down the light rust that forms with phosphoric just before painting/powder coating
Pete
-
25th November 2011, 01:22 PM #23GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 7,775
So says Wiki
"The phosphoric acid converts reddish-brown iron(III) oxide, Fe2O3 (rust) to black ferric phosphate, FePO4.
"Rust converter" is sometimes a greenish liquid suitable for dipping (in the same sort of acid bath as is used for pickling metal), but it is more often formulated as a gel, commonly called naval jelly. It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer". As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces.
After treatment, the black ferric-phosphate coating can be scrubbed off, leaving a fresh metal surface. Multiple applications of phosphoric acid may be required to remove all rust. The black phosphate coating can also be left in place, where it will provide moderate further corrosion resistance (such protection is also provided by the superficially similar Parkerizing and blued electrochemical conversion coating processes)."Last edited by Stustoys; 25th November 2011 at 01:25 PM. Reason: removing broken links
-
25th November 2011, 05:11 PM #24
A Bit of English Would Do.
Hi Jack620,
As It says, put it into English, as I'm not sure what you mean.
I have a few Tools in the V/W at this time, & when I get to clean them up, I expect for them to be a Beautiful Light Grey in colour.
To stop the future rust, most of my stuff is in Wooden Draws with an old Tea Towel that was soaked in that Product that those Shoe Shiners try to sell you, which is most likely Lanolin.
No Rust in My Shed.Regards,
issatree.
Have Lathe, Wood Travel.
-
25th November 2011, 09:56 PM #25
-
25th November 2011, 10:42 PM #26GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Location
- melbourne australia
- Posts
- 2,634
Hi Issatree,
sorry if I sounded flippant. I was just making the point that phosphoric acid and vinegar both have their specific uses. Pete F and Stu filled in with the details. It's the compound that phosphoric acid converts rust into that makes it suitable for the job. Vinegar doesn't convert rust, so is less suitable for the job. It may well remove rust (I haven't tried it), but it doesn't convert it to an inert compound.
Cheers
-
26th November 2011, 07:01 AM #27
All acids will remove rust but as stated phosphoric converts to an inert compound. Vinegar in the bottle is a solution of about 4% acetic acid so is already very dilute. I use it to clean dirty stainless kettles. Pour in about a cup full, top with water, boil. Rinse, repeat if needed.
We use 85% phosphoric at work to neutralize caustic and as a cleaning step when cleaning our centrifuges. We buy in 200l drums. When the drum is empty (almost) there is enough left for me to take home. We use a pump to empty the drum into a bucket but the pump does not get it all. Due to the danger we are not supposed to use any other method. It is much safer at home tho!
I agree that it should be diluted to about 35% or so. I have used conc acid before and had to add water to get it to remove rust. The water is needed to create H3O+ ions which do the work. I would suggest that the acid is washed off with water after use. Then wipe etc dry.
Dean
-
27th November 2011, 09:58 AM #28New Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2011
- Location
- Qld
- Posts
- 3
Just remember to add acid to water and not the other way around.
-
27th November 2011, 10:13 AM #29
Similar Threads
-
Acid bath strength
By Dengue in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 5Last Post: 12th May 2008, 11:58 AM -
Acid metal dye
By andrewsd in forum FINISHINGReplies: 3Last Post: 25th June 2007, 01:45 PM -
Vitriol acid
By Eastie in forum FINISHINGReplies: 4Last Post: 12th April 2002, 09:25 AM