Thread: Strutting your stuff ......with Gas Struts

I just did a google and found this place Strutmasters, gas struts new, repaired or recharged. ESP Auto Services in Adelaide.

I would suggest that you weigh your door in the open position, measure the length of the opening and the then give them a ring and ask them

If you google 'strut specialists' they have all the info you need to work out what size you need and how to fit them. I would provide a link but the last time I did that it made everyone's computers have a hissy fit.

Phil

There are struts which you can adjust the force available by bleeding out some of the gas. Can't comment how well they work but they would have to be over strength to start with so you had reserve to adjust.
Mm.

The mobile gas strut people can fine-tune the nitrogen charge in the struts on-site to give the correct force.

In my experience, gas struts are a neat temporary solution.
They don't last forever, and it can be a painful drag when they lose their springiness.
A steel spring is more reliable by far - just not as neat.

Jordan

Originally Posted by nadroj

In my experience, gas struts are a neat temporary solution.
They don't last forever, and it can be a painful drag when they lose their springiness.
A steel spring is more reliable by far - just not as neat.

Jordan

Hi Jordan,
I may be the exception to that. I made a 'works' trailer (when I had my business), 12 years ago. Each door is made of an 8' x 4' sheet of 16g black sheet with a 40x x40 SHS frame. The trailer has travelled over 70,000 kilometres over some pretty rough ground and were opened and closed goodness knows how many times. I still have the trailer and used it last weekend, they are still going strong. The only trick I was told before I mounted them was to make sure the body of the strut was in the uppermost position. That way the neck seal wouldn't dry out. The struts are Munroe brand

Phil

Thanks Phil, I guess I might be equally unlucky, but I'd avoid struts if I could. We have a Commodore and Falcon station wagons here, both with failed struts. The Falcon had pattern replacements that lasted less than 2 years before starting to sag again. I remember when vehicles used steel springs for tailgates and bonnets, which just worked and lasted. Thanks for the tip about orientation.

Jordan

I've got a bunch of German made industrial struts, they're rated at 800N (so a pair will lift ~160Kg) and are roughly 570mm extended/240mm closed (from memory). Perfect for camper trailer lids etc.
PM me if you're interested.

Try UES Universal Engineers Supplies based at Regency Park, they are suppliers of body building components. An excellent company to deal with. They should have an online catalogue, with details on how to work out the details or you can take weight of door and height and they can work out all the details including where to mount the pivot points. Have dealt with them for over 20 years. I have a Mobile Workshop trailer with 4 mounted on a door 1800x4.3 and had to reinforce the hinges, because they started to straighten out!! They have been on the trailer for nearly 10 years. A smaller door 2000x2100 on the back is opened at least 2-3 times a day with the same number of struts.
Kryn

I went through this exercise when I fitted a plywood lid to a big toolbox for my traytop. Made the calculations found online, ordered the struts , I think it was a Melbourne mob but not sure now. Result: It's harder to lift the lid than before and annoys me every time. Maybe I did the calcs wrong. It does stay up though so I got half the result I wanted.

Ok, this is just plain showing off, but I put a gas strut on my furnace door, and it works a treat..

Heat Treatment Furnace Door Demo - YouTube

Gotta love gas struts

The only parameters were the lift capacity and the length, it goes overcenter to lock in the closed position.

Regards
Ray

Originally Posted by nadroj

Thanks Phil, I guess I might be equally unlucky, but I'd avoid struts if I could. We have a Commodore and Falcon station wagons here, both with failed struts. The Falcon had pattern replacements that lasted less than 2 years before starting to sag again. I remember when vehicles used steel springs for tailgates and bonnets, which just worked and lasted. Thanks for the tip about orientation.

Jordan

Got a falcon wagon which has issues with bonnet struts at times. Depends on the temperature. I have replaced struts in the past and they lasted ok. Agree about the springs on the old cars tho. I have a pair of struts on my shop press. Tried every idea I could think of but the second hand struts were the best option. No room for simple springs and anything more would have been too complicated. Mate at work asked me about struts on his 4wd canopy today. They were completely non working. No pressure at all. I told hime to buy some more and showed him how to change them.

Dean

Originally Posted by festy_

I've got a bunch of German made industrial struts, they're rated at 800N (so a pair will lift ~160Kg) and are roughly 570mm extended/240mm closed (from memory). Perfect for camper trailer lids etc.
PM me if you're interested.

Thanks for the offer, appreciated, but I weighed the lid (open the lid a fraction and shoved put the bathroom scales in between) and it only came out at about 25kg.

Originally Posted by RayG

Ok, this is just plain showing off, but I put a gas strut on my furnace door, and it works a treat..

Heat Treatment Furnace Door Demo - YouTube

Gotta love gas struts

The only parameters were the lift capacity and the length, it goes overcenter to lock in the closed position.

Regards
Ray

Yes, that is showing off, you deserve it, v nice! Had a look at your other videos too, you're a handy bloke to know (with some serious machinery)!!