Thread: Stuck chuck ....

If I am interpreting your figures correctly the angle to offset the compound slide is .71616 degrees.

Looking at your setup in the first picture again I would say it is more likely that you would have to set the angle at 1.4321 degrees.

Originally Posted by Techo1

If I am interpreting your figures correctly the angle to offset the compound slide is .71616 degrees.

Ok sounds good , I thought it was under one degree .

I think over 4" the taper would be .1 "

Is there anything on the other end of the spindle that could be gripped?

Jordan

Originally Posted by nadroj

Is there anything on the other end of the spindle that could be gripped?

Jordan

Not really , there is only a short length of spindle outboard of the headstock casting , where a gear is located on the spindle end . The advice I got is to lock the spindle at the back plate end , doing this will negate any twisting effect over the length of the spindle eg if it was locked at the other end . My plan is to use a long bar and hang a weight off the end of the bar and leave it under tension , while heating and cooling the back plate . If that fails I will have to turn it off, which I really don't want to do as its a complicated register and I need a intact back plate , so I can copy it

Can you make up some sort of clamp that will hold the spindle between the gears and immobilise it? If you could I would suggest that plus penetrene and a few sharp blows to the backing plate may work.

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

Can you make up some sort of clamp that will hold the spindle between the gears and immobilise it? If you could I would suggest that plus penetrene and a few sharp blows to the backing plate may work.

Michael

Hi

I don't want to risk damaging the gearbox .

I did try this, I selected the lowest gear 15 rpm and placed a 1 " gal pipe in the 3 jaw chuck and gave the end of the pipe a few blows , all that did was bend the pipe .

Originally Posted by morrisman

, all that did was bend the pipe .

Well you should be pretty happy about that

Stuart

Originally Posted by morrisman

I did try this, I selected the lowest gear 15 rpm and placed a 1 " gal pipe in the 3 jaw chuck and gave the end of the pipe a few blows , all that did was bend the pipe .

You've been lucky then - the reason I suggested a clamp around the non-gear bits was to spread the load. jamming something in the teeth or selecting a gear applies a lot of pressure to a tooth and may encourage it to break (DAMHIK)

Michael

Does the machine have power connected Mike? If so, and if it can be run in reverse, I can suggest a method that will probably undo the chuck although the method is a bit primative.

Why not bolt another plate to it with a big nut welded to the centre, with the g/box in a neutral position zapp it with an impact gun, 3/4" or 1" square drive if you can, you might loosen it without even holding the shaft.

shed

Originally Posted by Techo1

Does the machine have power connected Mike? If so, and if it can be run in reverse, I can suggest a method that will probably undo the chuck although the method is a bit primative.

Worked for me a couple of times.

Jordan

Some suggestions for removing stuck threaded chucks here: http://tinyurl.com/37znlsc

Jordan

I saw a variation of the long lever spanner method somewhere - the chap set up the long lever and tied a rope or chain to the end of it and dangled a very heavy wieght and left it overnight - said it worked every time. Have seen other posts advocating applying gentle heat.

http://modelenginenews.org/techniques/stuckchuck.html this might be worth a look.

Bill

Originally Posted by morrisman

Advice on another forum . Is to machine up a tapered plug and use the plug locked in the spindle taper to hold the spindle .

I cant see a tapered plug having enough grip to hold the spindle stationary, if you have all ready tried the low gear and bend the pipe routine. The plug will just slip.

But if you wanted to try that, no need for maths. A lot like your first picture, just use the indicator of the other side of the taper, mag base on your top slide, and just clock the taper until the top slide is true to the spindle taper.

I still think that's bad advice, you'd have to seat that plug with a sledge hammer if it was to have any chance of locking. That will expand the spindle, working against the cause.

Regards Phil.