Thread: Superglue and Washer Turning

I use a method to try and improve the finish of the parted face, with varied success. I will part it nearly to the bore, leaving a mm or two on radius, but in stages with step-overs for a wider slot. Then finally take a light skim off the back face (preferably with power feed) and continue through. If the tool is sharp and you angle it for clearance it usually works pretty well. Another option is to leave the bore short, part past depth and finish the bore last to separate.

Bob I use either 2 or 3mm carbide parting blades,rpm dependant on OD and feed either by hand or power around .10mm feed depending on the depth of cut.
I then remove the dag with pliers and finish with counter sunk in drill press or if bore is large cut reverse chamfer before parting.

Hi Bob,
I wouldn't give up on the superglue idea just yet. Use maybe 3 drops of the thicker stuff Ewan recommended plus the accelerator. You can get the thicker stuff at Bunnings.

What's the worst that can happen? Either the washer will separate from the bar while you're facing it, or it will stick so hard you won't be able to remove it. If the former, try another method. If the latter, face the washer off and try another method. Or try the heat gun. I'm sure epoxy would work, but even the fast stuff takes 5 minutes to set. If you have the time that may not be an issue though.

Chris

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

I need to make a few 4140 washers to match those on my mill. About 28mm OD, 12.2mm ID and 4mm thick with a chamfer on the outer edge on one side.

How does this sound? I drill and bore a suitable length of bar then face and chamfer the end before parting of the washer slightly oversize. I then face and chamfer the next would be washer. The first washer is then superglued onto the faced chucked bar end and the parted off face faced. I dare say the facing would need to be done with an extremely delicate touch.

I read somewhere that acetone will remove superglue but will it get in and break the bond in the situation I have attempted to describe.

Any ideas?

BT

HI BOB,
Have You looked at using Hi-tensile Washers assuming that there is something available that will do the job. I know that HT Washers are very hard as I ruined the Tip of a 9/16 Cobalt Drill when I tried to make the ID bigger. I can't remember whether You have a Surface Grinder or not, but that would be an option in reducing the final thickness. Obviously You would have to Part them Off very close to their Finished Size and then Finish them on a Surface Grinder. I believe that the Superglue and Acetone does Work, but I think that it takes a little while.

Hi Bob,
I have done a similar job to yours on several occasions and I found by adjusting your parting tool (carbide insert) just ever so slightly out of square pointing towards the tailstock end it cuts a mirror finish on the back of the washer, just remember to re adjust it back to square when you finish.
Bob

Hi BT,

I'd be interested in hearing how the CA glue goes, but i'd probably prefer to use the original Loctite 415 stuff. You need good clean mating surfaces.

Regards
Ray

PS... I got curious about dissolving loctite...

I've heard stories of hospitals having some special solvent that will dissolve loctite, well here it is https://tds.us.henkel.com/NA/UT/HNAU...ile/768-EN.pdf
Interesting that it seems to be Nitromethane based, so I guess the drag racing fraternity don't use much loctite...

Well, I walked away from the glue and pursued something along the lines of Roger's suggestion. I've packed out work before with a ball bearing race but didn't have a bearing small enough. I looked through my thread die collection and the dies were either too thick or too thin. So I made a 7mm thick spacer from 1214. Naturally enough I tore it from the chuck jaws on my first facing attempt. By the time I trued the mangled mess up I could have made a collet as per Ewan's drawing. The washers are 1045. PC's mention of countersinking in the drill press might have been a better option than the boring bar. I had trouble with concentricity with the little Sherline chuck. Maybe a chuck change would have sorted it out. I used a file to remove the sharp rear edge.

The next bit of fun and games will be the making of the bolts. These bits and pieces are for my table lowering adapter plate.

So Rob, Ewan, Chris, Michael, Stu, Roger, Peter, Josh, Bryan, Stewart, Bob and Ray, thanks for taking the time to think about this and for making your suggestions.

Bob

ps. The carbide parting off tool is sounding desirable.

Hi Bob,
Is there any chance of a pic of your parting off tool. I think there is something horribly wrong there. I can part off with high speed and get a perfect finish. I don't even have a rear tool post.

Phil

I xxxxxx UP! The cutter was blunt. I assumed the 1045 was just nasty stuff to part off, bit like 4140. Never bothered about the blade. With the blade sharpened, things improve. The three slices are 1214. The other, 1045. The latter still has tears but it is flat not reminiscent of a coil of barbed wire. I have abused that blade. I need to grind it back to a point where there is no side wear. In fact I'll go and do it now.

Hi Bob,
Definitly a sharpness and maybe a clearance issue. Are you stopping half way and increasing your spindle speed?

Phil

Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer

Hi Bob,
Definitly a sharpness and maybe a clearance issue. Are you stopping half way and increasing your spindle speed?

Phil

Monospeed Phil. After grinding off the visible side wear, I'm still getting tears in 1214.

I normally put on about a 2 to 3 deg rake on the top Bob.
The other thing you have that could be something is the way you are creating the outer support. How do you have that set up.

Phil

BT, after forming your washer, part it off a little thicker than finished, then wack them on a magnetic table and surface grind to size.

I'm sure you have a Hercus surface grinder, if not, go and buy one, then give it to me!

Ken

Bob
There are many ways to "kill a cat", & a variety have been offered.
I like the ideas Bryan & Bob (Krisfarm) have given.
The parting off tool your are useing,from the photo, appears to have some wear on the side face.
This will cause some binding, poor chip clearance & galling, tearing, with a resulting poor finish.
I dont use the tougher workpiece steel that you use, however the HSS rear toolpost mounted parting tool I do use is ground from the solid 3/8th" square.
It works very well. Many parting offs have been performed with this toolbit, but again its parting off mild steel, 1020 bright primarily.
I just went & measured the parting blade section. Its .112" at the front where the cutting takes place & Ive ground it so that its got some clearance towards the back, where it measures .108" so there is a couple of thou clearance each side. This prevents any binding or galling as the tool enters into the workpiece, Its got the normal side (vertical) taper on each side, & no top rake angle, although a little top rake would give a nicer cutting action.
This is the method that works well for me.
regards
Bruce