Thread: Switch wiring

Brown to A, Blue to B, Green to earth and yes both earths under the one screw.
No rubber wheels don't matter.
Also, take the cover off the motor and check that the motor connections are still ok. They may have pulled out as well.

I would also put a couple of cable glands into the switch. 16mm glands should fit ok. It will protect the cable from the metal edge and stop them pulling out again.
And crimp some insulated ring lugs onto the cable ends. Will make for a much better connection than the old style. These ones (the red one)

Thanks.

Will do on motor end


I'm thinking I should change the wire running from L2 - C to something insulated for safety unless that is meant to be fuse wire??

It's not fuse wire (well it might be but it doesn't need to be) It's just a bridge wire.
A short piece of wire with a lug on both ends will do the trick.

Originally Posted by NCArcher

I would also put a couple of cable glands into the switch. 16mm glands should fit ok. It will protect the cable from the metal edge and stop them pulling out again.
)

There is a good chance the female thread in the junction box is imperial conduit (3/4" maybe?). Getting imperial cable glands might be problematic, tapping out the thread to metric (20mm) should be easy. Ideally, borrow a tap for this one off job.

Hope you get it going without too many dramas.

Alan...

I was thinking the nut just held it in place, and the thread would be irrelevant as long as there is a hole??

Originally Posted by Uncle Al

There is a good chance the female thread in the junction box is imperial conduit (3/4" maybe?). Getting imperial cable glands might be problematic, tapping out the thread to metric (20mm) should be easy. Ideally, borrow a tap for this one off job.

Hope you get it going without too many dramas.

Alan...

That's why I suggested 16mm. should go through the 3/4" hole ok.

Originally Posted by NCArcher

That's why I suggested 16mm. should go through the 3/4" hole ok.

Ah, dunno why I didn't twig to that idea. Note to self - Read replies carefully before engaging keyboard!

Regards,

Alan...

A quick search of the net and I find cable glands from $0.56 to about $10 for what seems to be the same item. Any recommendations where is best to buy them at a good price?

Originally Posted by DSEL74

Any recommendations where is best to buy them at a good price?

Jaycar sell them in a packet of 2, for about $6 bucks.

I'd have lugs, crimpers and glands here if you wanted to bring it over on Saturday. I'll be here packing up for Sydney. I'm in all day today.

I wouldn't worry too much about that bridging wire being bare. Most motors use brass or copper bridging strips. If you get that close to the live bridge wire, the terminals would have all ready zapped you.

Regards Phil.

Originally Posted by Machtool

Jaycar sell them in a packet of 2, for about $6 bucks.

I'd have lugs, crimpers and glands here if you wanted to bring it over on Saturday. I'll be here packing up for Sydney. I'm in all day today.

I wouldn't worry too much about that bridging wire being bare. Most motors use brass or copper bridging strips. If you get that close to the live bridge wire, the terminals would have all ready zapped you.

Regards Phil.

Phil, I could unbolt the motor and bring it over today. I'll bring that level you said to bring over at the auction to check which I haven't gotten around to, also if that's ok.

Dale.

I'm here all day. I'll stay hungry just in case we can fit in dumplings, my shout.

Phil

Don't stay hungry for me. It will take me a bit over an hour to drive across.

Thanks for the advice guys & Phil for the help. It is all wired up done & tested now, just have to remount it on the stand.