Thread: Table square block for miller

Hi Grahame
Why slot it first?
I think I'd weld it all up.
Rough machine the faces.
Slot.
Send it out for finishing.

Are you going to stress relieve it?

Stuart

So you are making an angle plate like this?



From pieces like this

Grahame I would cut the slots first, as I think it will be easier than after it's all welded up. 250 x 150 x 20mm sounds like it will be nice and rigid.

RC
I am not sure what size that angle plate is, but it looks on the thin side. Was it made to do a certain job?

Dave

It is actually the support for my shaper table, but similar to an angle plate..... It is 16mm plate except the angle supports which are 10mm..

Oh I thought he was cutting T slots.

Originally Posted by .RC.

So you are making an angle plate like this?



From pieces like this

yes RC,
Thats the doover I want to make, an angle plate.

The 75 mm face cutter should make short work of it.Thinking about it more, the slots will allow the plate to be mounted to the table side ,or is it a no no with that size-150 wide ?

I had some concerns about it distorting during welding ,but will keep the weld size to a minimum.

Thanks and will post pics

I wouldn't be using the front T slot for anything like that.
If you left the slots until after it is made, you could drill and counter sink some socket head bolts where the slots will go to be used to hold it down to the table while machining it on some blocks. Then after it is machined square cut the slots which will take out the counter sunk holes.

Dave

Too late! It's slotted .
The boys are dead keen to get this tool operational. When its finished they can complete the ball turning tool using the angle block to support the ball turner yoke.

That means they can then turn ball ends for the vice they are about to make.

I am thinking of using 4140 for the tommy bar handle as 12 mm bright might not stand up to some of these gorillas.

Any cluese on what the likes of Dawn, Record and like wise companies would be using?

Grahame

Grahame
No idea what you should make the handle out of but Dawn do say that their handles are weak enough to bend before you to damage to the rest of the vice.


.RC. Wouldn't the gussets be better on the inside of the slots?

Stuart

Hi Gra,

What size vice are the cherubs making? If it's say 4", 100mm, 12mm MS will be more than adequate for the tommy bar handle. If a lot larger, say 6", is it possible to up the size to 16mm. Again, MS would be ok.

Ken

Hi Ken,
The jaw width is 120mm

Grahame

I am a bit funny about the vices.
At the last school ,one cherubs idea of a good time was to do the vice up as tight as possible (in winter).
Fabbed steel vices stop that of course.

When we rocked up next day there was often a broken CI vice to contend with.

The old vices often had a wear spot weakening the handles so when thay tried to make them eye popping tight the handles would bend.

Grahame

Sorry I have no pics but I made up an angle plate for a milling attachment on lathe with a piece of 150mm x 16 mm angle 150 mm long I picked up. Did not need slots as I attached a 2 way drilling vice. One problem is it is difficult to machine the inside so I left it raw. Was about 1.5 mm out of square which I spread over both faces. I bought an angle plate from H & F so I could make this on the lathe.

I also have another piece of this angle for future projects. I thought this method would involve less material removal and so more strength than building up from plate, not to mention not worrying if weld was strong enough. Operation is as good as I had hoped and will do until I can find a decent dedicated mill at an affordable price! (Insert histerical laughing here).

Dean

I'd suggest a weld this length would be plenty strong enough for any machine likely to be seen here

Most here who have a milling machine would also have a lathe, and making cylindrical squares on a lathe is quite straight forward. Turn up 2 cylindrical squares, bolt them to the mill table, clamp the welded up angle plate to them and machine away. The sequence will be top edge, bottom face, then flip and repeat.

Pete