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Thread: Tail Stock Alignment.
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31st January 2015, 03:36 PM #1
Tail Stock Alignment.
I found that my tail stock was know longer in alignment with the head stock.
I put a 200 X 25.05 mm piece of aluminium, turned a sliver off of it.
24.90 mm tail stock end
24.85 mm head stock end
To fix this do I loosen the tail stock and move it 0.05 Towards the front of my lathe?
I have a Steelmaster 9 X 20 lathe.
Ratty 05/2004 -05/07/2010 COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012
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31st January 2015 03:36 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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31st January 2015, 03:46 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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im only new to this, but it could be out left to right if that make sense. generally tail stocks are ok in height. they should have an adjustment on them to move left or right.
could someone confirm.
EDIT-sorry i just reread it, by front do you mean where you stand? if thats the case from my understanding is you would need to split the difference?
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31st January 2015, 03:53 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Move it half of what it is out and move it towards the operator ,good luck you may chase this for quite some time,you could always just adjust your depth of cut to compensate for the taper as you approach the headstock.
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31st January 2015, 04:14 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
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Looking at the photo, I'd be inclined to take another cut as you've not taken any off on one side, ie you are not quite centre. If it is the same .05 out, the distance required to adjust would be .025. From what I can understand reading here, is that on a lot of lathes (mass produced in ????), the tolerance is acceptable.
Kryn
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31st January 2015, 05:24 PM #5
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31st January 2015, 05:30 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
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Have you recently moved the lathe, as sometimes they can get a twist in the beds. A way to check for the twist is to get a machinists level and check it, A wixley type might do it also.
Kryn
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31st January 2015, 06:26 PM #7Cba
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31st January 2015, 06:36 PM #8
I did move it a while back, place it on a tool box, between tray and top of box I cut down a 20 mm wood table top ( type that is laminated 60 X 20 mm tinier probably from China.)
Between tray and lathe placed 30mm MDF to raise the lathe.
These any good or some where else better?
FLECK they want $30.00 postage.
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&r...Y8Z3aQM5dggLyg
Ratty 05/2004 -05/07/2010 COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012
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31st January 2015, 06:56 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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May be you should try between centres as the chuck might be throwing it out?
You may also find that if you increase the amount of off set in the tail stock and start with say .5 to 1mm taper it might be easier for you to adjust rather than only .3 mm.
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31st January 2015, 08:01 PM #10GOLD MEMBER
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Dunno what you're complaining about, I just bought 3 separate items from QLD, and have had to return them at $8.50 a time ($25.50) plus the postage to get it here $9.00 each time ($27.00) total $52.50 and still have nothing to show for it. At least they'll airfreight it to you, so hopefully you won't have to wait 8 days, like I do, every time I want something from QLD.
Kryn
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31st January 2015, 08:33 PM #11
alignment
I agree with CBA
I would be looking at other possible reasons for your problem.
Have you tried turning a 100mm length of stock , without any tailstock support . I think doing this will give you a better indication of whats going wrong . This advice is from a novice BTW
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31st January 2015, 11:12 PM #12
Hi,
I'm just in the process of making a precision level. I was going to finish it then do a build log here. I've used a cheap bubble from a dollar store spirit level. I could detect 1/1000 per foot when I tried the original level. I don't know if it will be good enough to measure a lathe bed though.Best Regards:
BaronJ.
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31st January 2015, 11:54 PM #13Member
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I'm far from an expert however had have some experience in lining up my tailstock. plus reading the fitting and machining book.
You are never going to get accurate results trying to line up the tail stock with a 3 jaw chuck, it wouldn't be uncommon to get 0.06mm runout+
The best method is between centres or use a 4 jaw chuck and dial it in. Just my opinion
3 jaws chucks are used for general turning that is not VERY crucial in tolerances.
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1st February 2015, 07:20 AM #14Philomath in training
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Not quite - you can do accurate work that is concentric in a 3 jaw chuck provided it is machined all over and all done in one set up - that is, the work is not repositioned in the chuck. If you are trying to reposition a part or match up to previous work then yes, a 4 jaw or working on centres is the more preferable method.
In this particular case provided the diameter is measured across 2 freshly machined surfaces it should give a valid number to work with.
Michael
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1st February 2015, 08:58 AM #15
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