Thread: Tailstock Question

Simon - another possibility for you. I had thought my lathe did not have a scale on the tailstock ram until I did a strip down where I found it very faintly on the top surface. After a bit of thinking I decided to embed a section of steel rule into it. The slot was milled in with a carbide end mill and the rule is stuck in place with Loctite bearing locker. It's worked out alright as the 0.1" graduations are close enough to 2.5mm that I can convert in my head (and the micrometer scale is still on the back for fine stuff). Perhaps you could put a scale in the ram too, to match the drill chuck.

Attachment 209839

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

Simon - another possibility for you. I had thought my lathe did not have a scale on the tailstock ram until I did a strip down where I found it very faintly on the top surface. After a bit of thinking I decided to embed a section of steel rule into it. The slot was milled in with a carbide end mill and the rule is stuck in place with Loctite bearing locker. It's worked out alright as the 0.1" graduations are close enough to 2.5mm that I can convert in my head (and the micrometer scale is still on the back for fine stuff). Perhaps you could put a scale in the ram too, to match the drill chuck.

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Michael

Nice one Michael
Great minds and all that, i have been thinking of doing the same as the conrick has neither graduations on the barrel or a collar at the handwheel. I wasn't sure how i would fix it down though, now i know.
Unlike yours i can angle the ruler back towards me for easier viewing, my slots are further round.

Hi Dave,

So I got a bonus feature on this TS? Yippee!

Hi Log,

I will scrape the TS until I'm happy with the bearing surface and it's alignment to the bed both vertical and horizontal. Even with the bearing surface left as is, it's factory alignment is mediocore at best. I would like to improve this. I will then compare it to the headstock. I have aligned the headstock to the bed previously and I got it pretty good, at least in spec with the figures stated in Connelly's book. It didn't really need to be that good but I really enjoyed the exercise. However, I had noted that the headstock and base are not a very good fit, they only make contact at four points, being each corner where it's bolted to the bed. I would like to improve this and doing so will be sure to bring the headstock down further anyway. In fact I may have to revisit the TS afterwards which is not ideal, like chasing your tail but the TS will if anything only need a slight tweak and at least it will only be height adjustment not angular, so a scrape straight down would be all that's needed.

I may decide to terminate the HS scraping once it's inline with the TS and call it even steven. See what happens!

Ideally I think I probably should start with the HS and then go to the TS but I figure the TS is probably a little easier for a rookie like me!

A fall back position would be to just shim the TS but I would prefer to avoid this if possible. I don't want to have to worry about shims when I adjust the TS.

Hi Michael,

That looks great! actually I'm reasonably happy with the scale on the TS. Actually there was a thread by another member (was it big shed?) who put a DRO in the quill which looked pretty good. I've always just used the fine scale on the hand wheel for really accurate stuff but since installing a DRO on the quill of my mill I love it! No longer have to worry if the quill has dropped from backlash as it shows you right on the readout!

Hi Bruce,

I'll have a look tomorrow, thanks.

Hi John, same same I don't think I contacted them. Perhaps I wasn't as thourough as I first thought in my search. Cheers,

Simon

Ewan, I can't claim all the credit for that one. I asked the question (how to attach) when I still visited HSM and that was the best suggestion (I was thinking drive pins at the time).
It was sad in a way as a good proportion of respondants were very negative about the idea of even touching the lathe. While I can understand they may have a view, I prefer the "if you can't say anything nice..." approach. The idea that people share and try to find the best solution for the issue at hand is much more helpful.

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

Simon - another possibility for you. I had thought my lathe did not have a scale on the tailstock ram until I did a strip down where I found it very faintly on the top surface. After a bit of thinking I decided to embed a section of steel rule into it. The slot was milled in with a carbide end mill and the rule is stuck in place with Loctite bearing locker. It's worked out alright as the 0.1" graduations are close enough to 2.5mm that I can convert in my head (and the micrometer scale is still on the back for fine stuff). Perhaps you could put a scale in the ram too, to match the drill chuck.

Attachment 209839

Michael

Agree Michael, comments should be at least positive even if you don't agree with what is proposed. Hey looking at your TS, what is the screw on collar on the front? Is it a wiper so swarf doesn't get inside or an oil wick? Is it original? Why don't I have one?

Simon (with collar envy!)

The collar has a felt ring in it. Oil is put in a hole on the top of the tail stock and the felt acts as a wiper. Why don't you have one? Dunno. This is 1950's British techology so should be easy to copy and install on your lathe if you want to, but was standard on my lathe
(https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/bi...-lathe-142383/)

Michael

I like your lathe. Thanks for making me aware of your thread. I enjoy looking at older machines, like most here I guess.

As for smooth contemporary lines or the classic retro look of the monarch? Anything is better than classic Chinese!

My inlaws have a Colchester Batam and everytime I visit I can't help but play with the handles just to feel the quality. I dare say that the Colchester is still not in the same league as a Monarch or CVA though!

Simon

Hello Simon,
I cut the tang off the socket which I use with my drill chuck in the lathe and I have not had any trouble with it turning. It is nice to be able to start drilling with the scale on zero. Less chance of making a calculation error.
Russell

Originally Posted by rusty steel

Hello Simon,
I cut the tang off the socket which I use with my drill chuck in the lathe and I have not had any trouble with it turning. It is nice to be able to start drilling with the scale on zero. Less chance of making a calculation error.
Russell

Yes I agree also I was thinking it's similar that of keeping the quill in the mill housed as much as possible, better rigidity, less movement the further in. My TS has about 100mm of travel but I would never use it to it's full travel as it is not as rigid. I guess it's more important when turning between centres where you have the ability to house it all the way as my live and dead centres have no tang. No need I guess as they would experience little rotational forces.

Cheers,

Simon