Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 31 to 45 of 63
Thread: Tailstock Shimming
-
24th July 2012, 01:17 PM #31GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
- Location
- Dural NSW
- Age
- 82
- Posts
- 1,120
Thanks Stuart
Thanks Stuart.
After asking the question I did a bit of a search & noted on "Practical Machinist" that a few blokes in the USA had purchased the CDCO unit a couple of years back & were happy with it. This low price stuff fulfils a vast market.
The Shars tool would probably satisfy my "fiddling" requirements.
I purchased a Slip Gauge Block set from them a while back & very happy with these.
The other big factor for me anyway is the Shars are in understandable "Inch" units..0005"
Not for everyone.
regards
Bruce
-
24th July 2012 01:17 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
24th July 2012, 04:49 PM #32.
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Perth WA
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 5,650
I picked up my Taster for about 230 dollars on local Ebay.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ta...9/#post1432878
I would have thought that the Coax required mounting exactly on the spindle centreline for the thing to work correctly and concentrically.
BT
-
24th July 2012, 05:16 PM #33GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 7,775
Hope you are wrong BT.
I can see it needs to be parallel to the spindle axis.
Just checked it. doesnt seem to matter. Cant exactly say I have my head around it at the minute but I have to duck of for awhile. I set it up running true with a DTI in a four jaw. Checked on a live center(thought it wasnt turning), got about 0.0005" run out. Offset the four jaw as far as it would let me(only a couple of mm but that would be more than enough to show up a problem I would have thought). Check live center again, still showing about 0.0005" run out. I'll leave you now to get your head around that hehe
Stuart
-
24th July 2012, 06:55 PM #34.
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Perth WA
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 5,650
-
24th July 2012, 07:42 PM #35GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 7,775
Hi BT,
I think you are up the wrong tree there. Wiggles work by knocking the ball to the center of rotation.
If you think about the coax indicator as just a DTI(which is all it is, just made so the face points the same way). Its measuring the distance from the center of rotation to the surface its running on. Any runout is fixed so the styles(?) still rotates around the spindle axis, just at a different diameter.
Stuart
-
24th July 2012, 07:53 PM #36.
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Perth WA
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 5,650
I'll stop barking and stick with my simple to fathom DTI and vee block set up.
BT
-
24th July 2012, 08:06 PM #37
You have me wondering what my TS is like now.....i will try it when i get a chance. I only have a .001" DTI...so i wonder if a setup like Bryans but with my .0001" DI would work
1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
-
24th July 2012, 09:09 PM #38Distracted Member
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Location
- Lower Lakes SA
- Age
- 58
- Posts
- 2,557
Actually I've been meaning to rig something for a DI because then I could see it the whole time.
-
24th July 2012, 10:07 PM #39GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 7,775
What? not my best explanation?
Think about increasing the "run out" of your DTI/Vee block set up. The contact tip still moves in a circle, the circle is just bigger.
Talking about your Vee block, what are the two extra thumb screws on the clamp for?
Stuart
p.s. I think I slipped in an extra 0 earlier, I've been testing few things and the tail stock is 0.0005" out front to back but about 0.0035" out vertically
-
24th July 2012, 11:45 PM #40.
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Perth WA
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 5,650
Things have clarified Stu, your explanation is fine.
The side screws on the Starrett 567 prevent tilting when the block is used on its side. Here is a nice new one - STARRETT TOOLS V-BLOCK complete set #567 NEW!! | eBay
Tempted?
What was that you said!
BT
-
25th July 2012, 05:27 PM #41Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Location
- Ballina N.S.W.
- Posts
- 371
Tailstock shimming
Following on from BT and Stuarts response (thanks to you both) to my version of tail stock aligning using a coax in the three jaw chuck I felt like some more checking out was in order.Reading Stuarts later posts he has done some delving as well. I started from scratch and checked the level of the lathe, it was only slightly out so I adjusted it. I then mounted the four jaw chuck and dialed the coax in.Then made a small adjustment to the tail stock to get it spot on in the horizontal axis. I then swapped the four jaw for the three jaw,fitted the coax and the results were the same as the photos show. Now it gets interesting, I removed the coax and put a 20mm dia aluminium bar in, faced it and centre drilled it with it close to the chuck. I scribed the top of the bar in line with no1 jaw slid it out 150mm being carefull not to loose the indexing and then did two .002" DOC cuts. After measuring both ends 130 mm apart I had .0031" diameter difference, biggest at the tailstock end,quite a surprise. Can anyone see where I went wrong. I then moved the tailstock over .0016" did another light cut and both ends measure exactly the same with my tenths micrometer.
Bob
-
25th July 2012, 05:34 PM #42Distracted Member
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Location
- Lower Lakes SA
- Age
- 58
- Posts
- 2,557
Indicators only get you close I reckon. Cut and measure is the final test.
-
25th July 2012, 05:57 PM #43GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 7,775
Hi Bob,
I'm not sure you should indicate off that surface.
Did you lock the tailstock quill while you were indicating it?
Did you unclamp the tail stock while you were adjusting it?
Did you move the tail stock along the bed between aligning and turning?
Did you lock the quill while turning?
How did you wear a line in a live center?
Did you turn using a live center or dead?
Did you indicate it afterwards?
After all that, what Bryan said.
Stuart
p.s. Very nice BT........ certainly not cheap!!!, I'm not surprised you heard my expletive from over there.Last edited by Stustoys; 25th July 2012 at 06:00 PM. Reason: p.s.
-
25th July 2012, 09:17 PM #44GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
- Location
- Dural NSW
- Age
- 82
- Posts
- 1,120
-
25th July 2012, 09:18 PM #45Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Location
- Ballina N.S.W.
- Posts
- 371
Hi Bryan & Stuart
Thanks for your response, now for some answers to Stuart's questions.
I indicated off both live and fixed centres and the tailstock quill all gave similar results.
Tailstock quill was locked all the time except when engaging into the aluminium bar,locked when turning.I had to move the tailstock rearwards to fit the bar into the chuck the quill was locked during this operation except when engaging it into the centre.I cut the groove in the live centre ages ago to allow acess for my threading tool.All turning with the live centre shown in the photos.I have not indicated after turning, what would that show?
I always check for taper and adjust the tailstock as the final solution, I was just surprised by the size of the taper on the first cuts.
Regards Bob
Similar Threads
-
Tailstock and Bed
By Auskart in forum THE HERCUS AREAReplies: 7Last Post: 12th August 2012, 10:01 AM -
Tailstock DRO
By Stustoys in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 58Last Post: 11th May 2011, 01:15 PM -
Tailstock reassembly
By Tiger in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 3Last Post: 23rd August 2009, 10:13 PM -
Slop on tailstock
By Tiger in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 17Last Post: 20th August 2009, 10:59 PM -
Now for the tailstock
By Tiger in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 8Last Post: 7th June 2006, 09:50 AM