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  1. #151
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    That would be the way to go Ken, and make an arbour up to fit the face mill that it can be accurately machine on.
    They really need to be hardened or have seats behind the inserts, which would probably cost more than CTC's prices for a hole unit.

    Like I said earlier, if it's just for the exercise and experience it would be a good project. But if it's to save money I think buying the material and screws will work out more expensive and then theres the work involved.

    Dave

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  3. #152
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,650

    Default

    Ken,

    Buying an arbor is the easiest option and one I have pursued myself when my intention was to modify one of my boring heads. The problem still remains in how do you acheive concentricity with two separate components. We are back to the CTC example. Bear in mind, my problem may certainly not be the norm. I would be well interested to find out how other face mill owners have fared.

    Bob.

  4. #153
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,650

    Default

    I think Dave can type more proficiently with his thumb than I can with my whole hand, hence him beating me to the draw. He has nailed it, why would you bother. Spend your time more fruitfully making something you can't buy.

    Bob.

  5. #154
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    melbourne, laverton
    Posts
    1,469

    Default concentricity

    i was conserned about how it would work out with a arbor i just made for the boring head i bought on greys online.its an iso 30. it has the taper and a flange like part for the mill spindle drive dogs. on either side of the flange. is a small shoulder. the threaded side of the flange is what the cutting head mounts on. the shoulder and taper were cut in one set up. then reversed. carefully set up to run true and the the thread cut. so when the arbour is done up tight. i havnt measured it but it appears to run true. much to my surprise.so with that in mind i could hold the arbor on a shoulder screw on a blank facing cutter and take a light cut. im not shore if that would be possible on my 9"c

    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    Ken,

    Buying an arbor is the easiest option and one I have pursued myself when my intention was to modify one of my boring heads. The problem still remains in how do you acheive concentricity with two separate components. We are back to the CTC example. Bear in mind, my problem may certainly not be the norm. I would be well interested to find out how other face mill owners have fared.

    Bob.

  6. #155
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,650

    Default

    Got a camera Azz?

  7. #156
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    melbourne, laverton
    Posts
    1,469

    Default no not yet.

    i will get one soon. it may help explain what im trying to get across. im not to good at putting it into words.

    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    Got a camera Azz?

  8. #157
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Heidelberg, Victoria
    Age
    79
    Posts
    2,251

    Default

    AB,

    A bit late in the piece, but it's good to see you on that other forum.

    With respect to the collets you picked up from Canada, what are the projections on the tail end for?

    Could these be cut off, and the collets used in an ER collet chuck? I don't mean to actually cut them up, that would be a no no.

    How close are they related to ER collets?

    Ken

  9. #158
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    melbourne, laverton
    Posts
    1,469

    Default he is a pic or too.

    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    Got a camera Azz?

    this is an arbor i didn't finish because the lathe i was using kept hiccuping, as i started cutting the tread. you can see the shoulder on the short end this is what the boring head mounts on. the tread locks it in position
    i will re-post the photos.
    thanks for the heads up
    Last edited by azzrock; 1st May 2011 at 03:11 PM. Reason: photo not working

  10. #159
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,650

    Default

    Ken,

    The nut like projections incorporate the lock screw required to secure the screwed shank of the Clarkson type cutter. The nut enables the collet to be held while tightening the screw. Cutting the nut off would result in the total destruction of the collet since the slots continue into the body of the nut.

    Back in the olden days, there were E non - collapsible biconical collets. They had no retention / ejection groove. Rego Fix introduced the ER collet in '72. Schaublin had ES collets that were collapsible like the ER but had no groove. Schaublin now produce ESX collets made to the same DIN standard as the ER.

    Whilst a Rego Fix ER 32 collet will fit in the Schaublin nut, it will not be retained in in place. The Schaublin collet will not fit in the Rego Fix nut because of the slightly different position of the retaining ring in the ER nut.

    Bob.

  11. #160
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Heidelberg, Victoria
    Age
    79
    Posts
    2,251

    Default

    Azz,

    I don't think your attachments are valid. Might just be me, but I can't open any of them.

    I get this message

    Invalid Attachment specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator

    Ken

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