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Thread: Thread cutting lube
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21st August 2011, 12:49 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
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Just be aware as the depth of thread increases you need to decrease your progressive depth of cuts.
As a very general rule the first pass can be at upto 50% thread depth,with the second being 50% of the first cut and the third being 50% of the second,then generally after the third pass the doc may go down to only .002/.003" and then reduce further to only .001" per pass untill to finished depth.
Any advanceing of the compound,should be in a ratio to the infeed.
Myself I normally when using the plunge method start advancing the compound when I get to withing 95% of thread depth,and most of my compound advance is done after reaching full depth,and then no more than .005" to start with and then reducing to no more than a .001" with progressive cuts.
As said this works for me,but may not be by the *(BOOK) or work for others.
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21st August 2011 12:49 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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21st August 2011, 01:01 PM #17GOLD MEMBER
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well described. the 95% thread depth sounds more like it. i havnt cut many threads latly. running over the thread a few times at the end at the same depth can help aswell.
Last edited by azzrock; 21st August 2011 at 01:07 PM. Reason: not compet
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21st August 2011, 01:19 PM #18.
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21st August 2011, 01:23 PM #19GOLD MEMBER
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21st August 2011, 02:01 PM #20
Ok
Ok but I think there is a tapped hole in the cross slide end . The screw threads into it , and as you move the cross slide forward to the indexed position, the screw holds it there in that position .....I might be wrong
Lots of opinions and advice .... I will read it all and take it all in.
MIKE
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21st August 2011, 04:00 PM #21GOLD MEMBER
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The Screw in the face of the Stop is for adjusting the position the cross slide returns to,it hits against the end of the cross slide.
The screw in the side/end of the stop is to lock the stop onto the cross slide.
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21st August 2011, 06:11 PM #22Dave J Guest
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21st August 2011, 07:47 PM #23Distracted Member
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Is the spray can stuff any better or worse? Health wise I mean.
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21st August 2011, 07:55 PM #24.
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Don't know Bryan. It goes everywhere and doesn't have the nice smell.
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21st August 2011, 07:56 PM #25
You can still get Trefolex Welcome to Trefolex Industries, INC. - and .RC., it looks pretty harmless on the MSDS, actully.: http://esvc000350.wic042u.server-web...f/Trefolex.pdf
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21st August 2011, 08:02 PM #26Dave J Guest
I believe they changed the formula a while back going by what I read on some other forums. My tin is an old one I picked up and isn't packaged the same as those ones.
The stuff is not supposed to work as good from what I read.
Dave
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21st August 2011, 08:58 PM #27
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21st August 2011, 09:19 PM #28.
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While it looks harmless on the MSDS that is really only the case when it is used according to instructions and that is using hand tools or slow speeds. As soon as the cutting tools get too hot, trefolex decomposes and some of the decomposition products will make your eyes water and nose run - I have experienced this - it's not nice and apparently not good for you either. I can't remember if the noxious decomp product is CN or OCl based or both. This hasn't stopped me using it on slow speeds on gun taps as it really is amazingly good.
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21st August 2011, 10:55 PM #29
Neatsfoot
Neatsfoot oil would be a good option I think but only the pure stuff , 100% . Most horse places sell a compound of mineral and animal oil which isn't pure .
The pure stuff is made from 100% cow fat ... probably why it works like the lard they used for thread cutting years ago.
MIKE
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