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  1. #1
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    Default Threading problem

    Ok

    I have been trying to thread a 1 1/2" 8 tpi internal thread. I am making a ER32 chuck for the Sheraton

    Problem is: As the sharp internal HSS threading cutter hits the bore , the front end ( closest to headstock ) of the carriage rises and the tool runs along the bore , rather than cutting .This occurs when the heavier cutting is needed. It's OK when doing the initial shallow cuts, but when the cutter gets deeper, it jumps up and doesn't want to cut deeply .

    As you can imagine , this ruins the thread , it ends up too narrow and malformed .

    The toolpost is very rigid . No problem there .

    The carriage has a lock at the rear end . I have this tightened up , but not too tight . the arriage still moves freely .

    External threading is no problem

    MIKE

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Lara, Vic, Oz
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    Default

    Hi Mike

    Are you feeding with the cross slide or top slide? If the former, then the cut will get progressively harder as the length of the cutting front increases. If you set the top slide to the flank angle of the thread then you can feed along one flank only, reducing the cutting forces (and generally allowing finer feed).

    Cheers
    Si

  4. #3
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    Default top slide

    Quote Originally Posted by SiJ View Post
    Hi Mike

    Are you feeding with the cross slide or top slide? If the former, then the cut will get progressively harder as the length of the cutting front increases. If you set the top slide to the flank angle of the thread then you can feed along one flank only, reducing the cutting forces (and generally allowing finer feed).

    Cheers
    Si
    Hi

    I am feeding using the top slide , set over 30 degrees .

    MIKE

  5. #4
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Hi Mike,
    Are you sure you have enough clearance (side, front or both?) for the helix angle and that its a boring bar?

    Stuart

  6. #5
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    Default boring

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi Mike,
    Are you sure you have enough clearance (side, front or both?) for the helix angle and that its a boring bar?

    Stuart
    Hi Stuart

    Yes , I did think of the same thing. The clearance angles are fine .

    The problem is the lathe itself. The SB 9 family has a weakness in the design, you can lift up the carriage from the front side . The back side of the carriage has a sort of gib underneath , this holds the carriage well at that side . But, the front side has no gib , it just floats on the bed

    A force of a certain type, will lift the carriage , not good

    MIKE

  7. #6
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    Default

    The cutting forces should be downward.

  8. #7
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    Default

    All the cutting force should be pushing down,there should be no indication that the carriage is lifting.
    Are you running the lathe in reverse with the tool upside down?
    I think that AMWH sells blank threaded pieces to suit collet chucks.

  9. #8
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    Default picture

    Pic

  10. #9
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    Default Yes

    YES

    I agree , the cutting force is downwards , but the carriage lifts up ... I cannot understand it

    The cutter has side rake on it .

    MIKE

  11. #10
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    Default another pic

    another pic

  12. #11
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    Default

    Is this the first internal thread of this size that you have cut?
    Not a good photo but is there clearance on the back edge of the tool?
    From the photo the rear edge of the tool looks to be almost vertical,there dosent appear to be any clearance,it should be sharpened virtually to mirror the leading edge.

  13. #12
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    Default

    This isn't one of those things where you run the lathe in reverse so that you are feeding towards the tail stock is it?

    My thoughts would be that 1.5" is a substantial size so that you should be able to get a nice (big) rigid boring bar to hold the tool to reduce/ eliminate tool deflection. Investigate cutting the thread with the compound parallel to the bed - the 30 degree stuff can be used but especially internally adds an extra degree of complication.
    Feeding towards the chuck on an internal thread is not difficult. Space the item out a little from the chuck so that you can see the tool come out from the back. Alternately work out your maximum depth and put a piece of tape on the boring bar at the correct depth (so that when you are at full feed into the 'nut', the tape is level with the start of the nut or similar). Try doing this on a scrap piece of something soft (plastic, Al, machining wax) until you are comfortable with it. Doing something new on a 'good' piece becomes nerve racking in itself.

    Michael

  14. #13
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    Default clearance

    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Is this the first internal thread of this size that you have cut?
    Not a good photo but is there clearance on the back edge of the tool?
    From the photo the rear edge of the tool looks to be almost vertical,there dosent appear to be any clearance,it should be sharpened virtually to mirror the leading edge.
    Yes there is clearance on the back edge .

    I did do a very good internal 1 3/4" 7 tpi thread for the PREMO lathe spindle protector . It worked beautifully on that occasion using the same cutter . But now, it doesn't work

  15. #14
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    Default

    Obviously you are doing something different,you will have to work that one out with trial and error.
    Bit hard to give suggestions or guess when it worked for you before.

  16. #15
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    Default Hi Michael

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    This isn't one of those things where you run the lathe in reverse so that you are feeding towards the tail stock is it?

    My thoughts would be that 1.5" is a substantial size so that you should be able to get a nice (big) rigid boring bar to hold the tool to reduce/ eliminate tool deflection. Investigate cutting the thread with the compound parallel to the bed - the 30 degree stuff can be used but especially internally adds an extra degree of complication.
    Feeding towards the chuck on an internal thread is not difficult. Space the item out a little from the chuck so that you can see the tool come out from the back. Alternately work out your maximum depth and put a piece of tape on the boring bar at the correct depth (so that when you are at full feed into the 'nut', the tape is level with the start of the nut or similar). Try doing this on a scrap piece of something soft (plastic, Al, machining wax) until you are comfortable with it. Doing something new on a 'good' piece becomes nerve racking in itself.

    Michael
    Michael

    The tool isn't deflecting , it's a solid piece of 3/8 x 1/2 HSS ground down .

    The carriage itself is deflecting upwards under load .

    No not reverse . Normal dorection

    MIKE

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