Thread: Threading with no chase dial !

Hi Mike,

I have a chase dial, but don't use it, just reversing each time is a pretty standard way of doing it.

Does your have the quick retract mechanism?

Regards
Ray

Originally Posted by morrisman

Hi

Been reading up on how this Hendey lathe cuts threads without a chasing dial .


Easiest thing is to scan 2 pages from the manual

Looks like the lead screw drive mechanism has 3 positions ..forward neutral and reverse . The lower shaft has stops on it , the stops disengage the lead screw feed mechanism and knock it out of drive . When thread cutting , you simply use a lever just below the carriage and reverse the carriage direction .

MIKE

Single tooth dog clutch in the drive train, exactly the same as my Monarch. It works for power feeds too (at least mine does) so you can set it for turning to a shoulder or blind inside bore and no longer sweat over a crash. I love it, that & the taper attachment was why I bought the lathe. Well, the ability to peel metal off fast didn't hurt either.

You're going to love that Hendey once you have it sorted.

PDW

Well now, this is very interesting. I've always wondered hot the clutch worked in the head of mu Conrik, and always thought i was missing some parts, but until seeing Mikes book with the Hendey reverser pictured i never new. What do you guys think? Not sure about a "path" for the control arm, but i'll have to look under the head.







This mystery part also came in the box of bits with the lathe. Now i can look at it in a new light and see if it fits anywhere.



Ewan

Originally Posted by RayG

Hi Mike,

I have a chase dial, but don't use it, just reversing each time is a pretty standard way of doing it.

Does your have the quick retract mechanism?

Regards
Ray

Why don't you use the chasing dial if you have one?

Originally Posted by Metmachmad

Why don't you use the chasing dial if you have one?

Hi Metmachmad,

The chasing dial doesn't work for metric threads on the CQ6250... so I just got used to not using it..

Regards
Ray

Hi Ewan,
If its a single toothed clutch and it turns 1:1 with the spindle, I'd say you have a winner.

Stuart

Originally Posted by RayG

Hi Metmachmad,

The chasing dial doesn't work for metric threads on the CQ6250... so I just got used to not using it..

Regards
Ray

That makes sense!

A modern lathe with a foot brake does not need a chasing dial and you don't disengauge the half nuts until the thread is finished . Just hit the foot brake at the end of the thread and the lathe stops dead . If you want to cut up to a shoulder without a relief cut then withdraw the tool as you brake. With a relief cut , after braking , withdraw the tool move the stop start lever to reverse and reverse out to the start then reset tool depth and go forward. For an instant reversing 3 phase motor you don't need a foot brake just slam it into reverse as you back out the tool but it does not always stop as dead on as using a foot brake.

Originally Posted by Retromilling

A modern lathe with a foot brake does not need a chasing dial and you don't disengauge the half nuts until the thread is finished . Just hit the foot brake at the end of the thread and the lathe stops dead . If you want to cut up to a shoulder without a relief cut then withdraw the tool as you brake. With a relief cut , after braking , withdraw the tool move the stop start lever to reverse and reverse out to the start then reset tool depth and go forward. For an instant reversing 3 phase motor you don't need a foot brake just slam it into reverse as you back out the tool but it does not always stop as dead on as using a foot brake.

Try that threading a blind internal bore something like 4 tpi at 120 rpm. Let me know how you get on....

Also put on a fine feed on a long cut and bugger off to do something else. Get distracted and see how you go.

I've used a modern lathe with foot operated spindle brake. Give me my Monarch single tooth dog clutch any day.

PDW

I found some pics on PM of a guy who rebuilt a cone head hendey. I was amazed to see how simple the dog clutch is. Not really 2 mating parts like a "typical" toothed dog clutch, Just a "tooth" on each face, so the clutch has positive drive in either direction but about 3/4 of a turn play. Here was me expecting a single tapered tooth and a mating part. I guess the idea of having so much play is for ease of engagement.

Can the Hendey and Monarchs clutch's be engaged whilst the machine is turning?

As i said i am missing parts from my lathe, if it did have a reverse and clutch mechanism like the Hendey then all 3 gears and both clutches are gone. What you see is what i got.

Ewan

Originally Posted by Ueee

I found some pics on PM of a guy who rebuilt a cone head hendey. I was amazed to see how simple the dog clutch is. Not really 2 mating parts like a "typical" toothed dog clutch, Just a "tooth" on each face, so the clutch has positive drive in either direction but about 3/4 of a turn play. Here was me expecting a single tapered tooth and a mating part. I guess the idea of having so much play is for ease of engagement.

Can the Hendey and Monarchs clutch's be engaged whilst the machine is turning?

As i said i am missing parts from my lathe, if it did have a reverse and clutch mechanism like the Hendey then all 3 gears and both clutches are gone. What you see is what i got.

Ewan

Hi Ewan

Yes I've noticed the large amount of play in the threading drive train .... weird sort of thing , normally you don't want lots of free play in a drive line .

Mike

Originally Posted by morrisman

Hi Ewan

Yes I've noticed the large amount of play in the threading drive train .... weird sort of thing , normally you don't want lots of free play in a drive line .

Mike

Mike,
I've just trawled through my history and found the PM thread. The pic of the clutch is about half way down. Hendey 14 by 6 Tie-Bar Rehab - Page 2

Ewan

Originally Posted by Ueee

I found some pics on PM of a guy who rebuilt a cone head hendey. I was amazed to see how simple the dog clutch is. Not really 2 mating parts like a "typical" toothed dog clutch, Just a "tooth" on each face, so the clutch has positive drive in either direction but about 3/4 of a turn play. Here was me expecting a single tapered tooth and a mating part. I guess the idea of having so much play is for ease of engagement.

Can the Hendey and Monarchs clutch's be engaged whilst the machine is turning?

Most certainly can. There's an upper speed limit because things will go 'crunch' in a not nice way, but my std practice is to engage, let the feed happen until the stop cams the clutch out, back out the tool then if threading, reverse using the apron lever. If turning, I manually wind back the carriage and then re-engage. If threading you need a run-out groove if you're not going to be paying attention & back the tool out.

The only thing I'd really like is rapid feeds to get back for the next cut as some of the modern machines have. I've never seen one with rapids and a single tooth dog clutch, but no doubt they exist.

PDW

I don't know about a Hendy but a CVA can engage the clutch while going (although it is suggested not to do this at high revs - although I normally thread around 80rpm and this is fine). I'd guess that means a Monarch can too.

Michael

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