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Thread: Tips and tricks
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13th December 2013, 09:15 AM #16
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13th December 2013 09:15 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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13th December 2013, 10:54 AM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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Only if you grind them so they are parallel, or selectively assemble them into sets. Or your requirement for 'parallel' is looser than mine because there's no guarantee 2 pieces of tool steel of nominal 1/2" are going to be exactly 0.5000".
They generally are pretty close and I have a couple sets I keep for parallels myself, but it pays to mike them first.
PDW
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13th December 2013, 11:09 AM #18Banned
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HSS Tool Blanks
I use HSS tool blanks for parallels also: You have to pair them up and mark which sides to use though as they aren't perfectly square. Generally if you order from the same source the branding is the same as are the sizings - never square though.
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13th December 2013, 01:48 PM #19GOLD MEMBER
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Setting tool square to work
To set your tool post reasonably square to centre line of your lathe when using a 4 way post or quick change place a parallel or piece of tool steel against the face of your chuck or the end of your job, bring tool post to touch and lock in position.
This works well enough for threading and parting from my experience.
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13th December 2013, 04:53 PM #20GOLD MEMBER
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Setting long or heavy work in the chuck
Sometimes when setting long or heavy work in the lathe chuck use a piece of timber held by the tailstock and centre to support it.
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13th December 2013, 05:28 PM #21Senior Member
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Paralells
I use key steel as cheap paralells. Varius sizes are available.
Roger
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13th December 2013, 05:54 PM #22I break stuff...
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13th December 2013, 06:02 PM #23I break stuff...
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As far as a tip goes, although not strictly machining related - whenever you're cutting aluminium, a cheap candle makes an excellent stick of lubricant. If hacksawing, just take a couple of shallow cuts into the candle, then have at it. If using an angle grinder with a 1mm cutoff wheel, start the grinder up and rub the end of the candle against both sides of the disc - you'll see it impregnate into the disc as you do it. Would also probably help those using bandsaws with no coolant, could start it up and hold the candle gently onto the teeth. Doesn't take much, I've had the same 20mm diameter candle for about 5 years, plenty of life left in it.
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16th December 2013, 08:18 AM #24GOLD MEMBER
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16th December 2013, 08:21 AM #25GOLD MEMBER
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Not sure about the ball with flat,but you could change it for a length of round bar with no flat on it.
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16th December 2013, 08:21 AM #26GOLD MEMBER
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16th December 2013, 08:30 AM #27GOLD MEMBER
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16th December 2013, 08:38 AM #28GOLD MEMBER
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I have never used a piece of stock with a flat on it when squaring material in a vice. Cant comment on that.
I have only ever used round bar and generally a little longer than the vice jaws just to make it easier to hold when setting up.
Diameter of the bar is usually between 1/4" to 1/2".
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16th December 2013, 08:46 AM #29Distracted Member
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Tool height can be fine tuned to somewhat compensate for taper due to bed wear.
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16th December 2013, 10:51 AM #30
Hall tip
A Harold Hall tip
setting your tool height is critical for fine finishing cuts
if the tool is even a tiny bit above centre it will rub the work and not cut
It is OK if the tool is a fraction below centre, to check this, take a facing cut and look for the pimple left behind to see if your tool is below centre
Mike
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