Thread: Tips and tricks

Same as pipeclay's idea; but I use a length of 6mm or so spring steel. (The remains of a broken tine from a wheel style hayrake. One advantage of country ;ife)


Ken

For finding center height, I favor the six inch rule.
If the rule can be held perpendicular between the tool point and the work then the tool is on center height.
Adjust tool height to suit if not.An oldie but a goodie.

Grahame

I have a quick change tool post and prefer to use the Diamond Turning tool. Thing is, if I resharpen, I have to slide the HSS back into the holder and then I have to re-check centre height.
I found that if I take the holder out and turn it upside down and slide the HSS in until it touches the surface the holder is sitting on I get great repeatability without too much overhang for turning.

Phil
DSC_2901.JPG

I had an old evaporative cooler I took the water pump out of and it and it makes a great coolant pump for the Lathe, it is also submersible.

Instead of buying thread wires (which would be nice) you can use sewing machine needles which are incredibly strong and round and accurate.
They come in packs of different sizes as well.

Phil

For those who don't have a coolant system on their lathe.

A small computer printer cartridge ink refill bottle with the blunt injector needle. It will hold a small amount of oil,cutting fluid and easily delivers a small dose to the precise spot needed.

Grahame

Originally Posted by azzrock

any other tips out there on center height?
i use a height gauge.

Azz,

I'm sure someone will say this is too much frigging about but this little gauge has paid off the effort involved -

Centre Height Gauge 014 (Medium).jpg

An extended cross slide helps.

BT

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Azz,

I'm sure someone will say this is too much frigging about but this little gauge has paid off the effort involved -

Centre Height Gauge 014 (Medium).jpg

An extended cross slide helps.

BT

It is too much frigging around, but it looks nice. One does not have to go to that much trouble tho.



Centre Height Gauge.jpg

Mine is made of stainless steel tho. Sort of the low maintenance version.

Dean

Originally Posted by tanii51

i have a multi bore slitting saw arbor how do you stop the screw that holds it together from tightening so tight its almost impossible to undo

There is no patent solution. The design of this tool is such that the screw will always tighten itself in use. It lacks a key to prevent the slitting saw from rotating, with the saw rotates the washer and with it the recessed screw. It is the trade-off you pay for the versatility of this tool.

I do NOT recommend you use anti seize compound on the screw - it would just make things worse, to the point of stretching the screw beyond its tensile strength. If this happens the female threads will break out too. The problem is not the screw seizing, it is the over tightening, hence anti seize is not a solution.

The tool uses a recessed screw, to maximize how close to a shoulder you can slit. So replacing with a cap head screw may not be an option if working in a confined area. But there are high tensile recessed screws that take an allen key instead of being slitted for a screwdriver. You will find this comes closest to a usable solution.

Keep the tool hospital clean and dry when installing a slitting saw. Wipe parts with a solvent before assembly. The slightest dirt or oil will make it MUCH easier for the saw to slip. If the saw does not slip in the first place, then the screw cannot tighten itself and the problem ceases to be one. Chris

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

I'm sure someone will say this is too much frigging about but this little gauge has paid off the effort involved -

Centre Height Gauge 014 (Medium).jpg

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

One does not have to go to that much trouble tho.



Centre Height Gauge.jpg

Actually guys although nice work perhaps still too much effort. I recently read where someone scribed a line at the right height on their tailstock barrel and used that. No need for a separate stand. I'm lazier still. I do a facing cut and adjust my QCTP so there is no dimple in the middle or pinch a steel rule between the tool and a diameter and adjust until the rule is vertical.

Michael

Michael.

The ruler idea is ok but if you don't have a QCTP doing a facing cut to set height is not always possible and I am not about to rely on the accuracy of my tailstock barrel to set centre height. Too much wear. These are the reasons I made a tool height gauge.

Dean

Originally Posted by Auskart

I had an old evaporative cooler I took the water pump out of and it and it makes a great coolant pump for the Lathe, it is also submersible.

nice one. recycling is great. could you post a photo please

Michael the scribed line is a great simple solution to the center height problem..
Colchesters come from the factory with these lines. Its no longer ease to see.
So i use a spare vernier height gauge. I probably shouldn't cause it quite nice.
its imperial a back up.

bob very nice . i remember admiring in the past. well worth the extra time
dean yours is handy and simple thanks.

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

One does not have to go to that much trouble tho.

Dean

But one may wish to Dean. For some of us this is a hobby. Hobbies often don't have time constraints. The time I spend making something might be deemed a waste of time by others. I know one forum member who thinks anything I've made and the way I've gone about it, is a waste of time. But it is my time, mine to waste however I like.