Thread: Tool Post Grinders - Can A good one be made?

Well I have just replaced the felt tube and lubrication wicks. I decided to make them myself. I had some engineering felt let over from another job so the felt tube was easy, just cut to the same dimensions as the old one. The felt wicks proved to be very, very fiddly but I wasn't about to let it beat me!

I started with a srip of felt and then wound cotton twin along it. Once the cotton twin is wound the entire length of the felt, a 2" tail is left. This tail tucks underneath the felt tube inside and wicks oil from the felt tube to the felt rod, which lightly rubs on the spindle.

Also recieved that bearing I bought from ebay. It's only one bearing but it was so cheap I couldn't ignore it! Now I need another one...

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Simon

Originally Posted by simonl

A Starrett 47 bevel gauge - still available today new but US$109 + shipping (amazon price)
Better hang on to that one Simon...

Michael

Simon..

I got your message about finding another bearing. How is the pre-loading done on that spindle? Are there any springs involved? Spring preload would make it easy. And I could find a single universal at less than retail.

Did you take that bearing out of the wrapper for that picture, or was that as received?

Regards Phil.

Thanks For the further info Michael. I inherited a few little keepers like that from Dad. Stuff I would never think to buy but have come in so handy and it has sentimental value to me too. I'd never sell any of Dad's stuff, I'd more likely give it away here if I couldn't use it since I know it would go to a good home.

Hi Phil, thanks for the reply. The bearing came in a sealed plastic bag and it's cardboard box. I have since put it in a zip lock bag. The bearings are preloaded using a spring type arrangement that is adjusted my a threaded sleeve that can be screwed in or out of the main body to provide thrust adjustment onto the outer race. I'll duck out to get a pic.

Simon

Phil, first pic shows to the parts to the preloading system. Next pic shows how it screws into the barrel of the spindle casting. The bearing would obviously sit up next the the spring on the spindle.

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Cheers,

Simon

Determining preload might be tricky, any plans Simon?

Bob.

Originally Posted by simonl

Thanks Bob.

Hi Kryn. Its a starrett bevel gauge. I inherited it from my Dad. Do not when or where he got it. It has a name on it A. G. Flood but thats not my dad.

Looks like a real handy tool. Funny how tools are accumulated like that, I've got several tools that have got other peoples names on them, I found a pair of cable cutters on a roof I was doing a job on once, several other tools were found on the road, beauty of riding a deadly treadly. I had a WB tension wrench 1/2" that my father found under the seat of a panel van that he'd bought.
Kryn

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Determining preload might be tricky, any plans Simon?

Bob.

Yep. Trial and error. Start light, run and monitor the bearing temps and keep adjusting until they run warm but not hot and also look at the surface finish.

Well, that's my plan anyway. Reading your TPG thread I see you had to mess around a bit with preload too so was also guided by that too.

Edit: First I got to finish making these pulleys though!

Simon

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

Looks like a real handy tool. Funny how tools are accumulated like that, I've got several tools that have got other peoples names on them, I found a pair of cable cutters on a roof I was doing a job on once, several other tools were found on the road, beauty of riding a deadly treadly. I had a WB tension wrench 1/2" that my father found under the seat of a panel van that he'd bought.
Kryn

Yep, I also have some stuff accumulated from where I do not know!

Simon

Had a bit of time today so had a play with making a pulley or two. I decided to make two pulleys side by side from the same bar stock and part off once finished. Well, that's the plan. These are about 38mm diameter. The compound angle was set using a DI running on the TS barrel to ensure symmetry. I was initially going to round off the crest using the ball turner bit it got a bit fiddly and I realised early on it was probably the easiest and quickest way to ruin the job so I did it by hand with some wet/dry and WD40.

The pulley on the left is as finished after turning and the one on the right is after sanding the crest. Looking at them, I think the angle is a little aggressive eventhough I modeled it from my t&c grinder. I may re-do them with maybe half the angle or so. Or, just run a tool across the top and re-sand. They won't be 38mm anymore but if I do the same to both they will still be a 1:1 ratio I guess….

For the mounting hole I require a 3/8" hole. I was planning on drilling an undersized hole and using a 3/8 reamer but I'm thinking unless my TS is near dead on, it will create runout issues. I think I will just drill and bore the hole to a nice snug fit on the spindle.

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Simon

Close, but no cigar.

That crown needs some more off of it.

What makes you think you need to pre-load the bearings?

On the Waldown you simply adjust it to eliminate the end play (these are ball races).

Do the final adjustment when it's running - ie. adjust until the revs start to drop slightly, then back off.

Correctly adjusted, these oiled ball races should run dead cool to barely warm.

Rob

Originally Posted by nearnexus

Close, but no cigar.

That crown needs some more off of it.

What makes you think you need to pre-load the bearings?

On the Waldown you simply adjust it to eliminate the end play (these are ball races).

Do the final adjustment when it's running - ie. adjust until the revs start to drop slightly, then back off.

Correctly adjusted, these oiled ball races should run dead cool to barely warm.

Rob

Hi Rob,

I had a bit more of a play with the crown. See how it goes, I may start new.

WRT the preload, it needs preload as it has preload adjustment. It can't be adjusted on the fly as one of the end caps needs to be removed for adjustment. The end caps house the outer race of the bearings. So it's a matter of small adjustments and run and see how it goes.

Simon

Originally Posted by simonl

Hi Rob,

I had a bit more of a play with the crown. See how it goes, I may start new.

WRT the preload, it needs preload as it has preload adjustment. It can't be adjusted on the fly as one of the end caps needs to be removed for adjustment. The end caps house the outer race of the bearings. So it's a matter of small adjustments and run and see how it goes.

Simon

Ball races don't normally use pre-load, from my experience.

Regarding the pulley, the method you are using may work better if you don't cut right to the centre line - ie. leave a flat section and round that into the tapered flats later.

Rob

Hi Rob. If you look at post no.53 you will see the angular contact bearing that even shows which side to preload and the preload assembly.

Simon