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Thread: Tool Post Grinding
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15th April 2011, 10:39 PM #46
I guess that depends on how much of the roughness is dried grease. I've done it before, but I think its a crap-shoot. Anyway, what's the downside except time? If you have an ultrasonic cleaner that's any good you might want to give it a half hour in a container of solvent suspended in the water, then another solvent rinse.
Let me know if you can't find one- I have a fweind in wome.
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15th April 2011 10:39 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th May 2011, 07:13 AM #47New Member
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equally spaced chatter
I've solved this issue in the past with my Dumore grinder by shimming the hole in the grinding wheel with 1 mil thick copper film. The very small amount of clearance in the hole was allowing movement of the wheel around the shaft, even when the wheel was well tightened on the shaft. It doesn't take much movement to make these chatter marks. Obviously you need to true the wheel after shimming and mounting.
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30th May 2011, 09:48 PM #48Senior Member
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I remember a few years ago I was using a Waldown TPG and I was getting a poor finish. I slowed the speed down by using a variac and I achieved a much better finish. Perhaps it is worth a try.
Russell
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1st June 2011, 11:48 AM #49.
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I've been dragging my feet.
I do need to reassemble the 44. I obtained a new set of motor bearings but to install one of them requires the machining of a simple spacer. The original 1/2" thick bearing was not readily available, so I purchased a pair of 11mm thick bearings. They have been sitting in the swarf tray for the past 5 weeks. One excuse for the inactivity is that I've sidetracked myself milling cast iron.
Another is the fear that even after reassembly and the incorporation of the last two helpful suggestions, the finish will not be markedly improved.
I have a question for those who have used these machines. What quality of finish can you expect from a tool post grinder? It's a lightweight grinder on a lightweight lathe.
BT
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1st June 2011, 12:01 PM #50GOLD MEMBER
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BT,
What direction are you running the spindle in?
*edit* the lathe spindle that is, I assume you have the grinder spindle running so the sparks go down.
Stuart
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1st June 2011, 12:09 PM #51.
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Forward, anti clockwise.
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1st June 2011, 12:24 PM #52GOLD MEMBER
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That could be your problem.
Can't say any more than that as I've never run a grinder in the same direction as the work.
Certainly worth a try. Granted it would have been more help 6 months ago
A quick google gives me wiki "This effectively means the two surfaces will be moving opposite directions when contact is made which allows for a smoother operation and less chance of a jam up."
Cylindrical grinder - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Stuart
p.s. Its that assumption woman againLast edited by Stustoys; 1st June 2011 at 12:30 PM. Reason: p.s.
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1st June 2011, 01:33 PM #53Dave J Guest
I have seen this discussed on a few forums and it seems most people run with the work and some run against.
Dave
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1st June 2011, 02:29 PM #54GOLD MEMBER
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Got some links Dave? If they are handy, could be an interesting read.
Centerless grinding the work and wheels turn the same way so I guess its not a huge issue. Maybe you can use the lathe rotation to adjust surface speed?(as long as you dont spin it fast enough to get a surface speed of 0 )
BT what rpms were you using?
Stuart
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1st June 2011, 04:03 PM #55Dave J Guest
Sorry Stuart no links as it was just something I read last year. I think it was either PM or HMEM. It was an interesting read and I will have a look latter to see if I can find it for you.
Dave
PS
I think you gave me your flu though one of your PM's, LOL
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1st June 2011, 04:26 PM #56GOLD MEMBER
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1st June 2011, 06:11 PM #57Dave J Guest
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