Thread: tool to remove a 'fitting'

Make up a socket with a 17mm ID, mill part of it away from the outside and then weld/ braze a couple of pieces of material in to get the 15mm A/F bit. How well that will work will depend on the torque needed I would guess.

Michael

A specialized spanner indeed,
you could make a thin walled version of a collett spanner with greater thickness for strength.images[7].jpg
Forgot to add that the spanner would be enough to loosen the fittings and then unscrewing by hand should be easy.

Thanks Michael...That might be a better option.If I can find some 1 mm material I can cut two small pieces to fit over two of the flats.
Will see if I can find a sacrificial 17 mm socket.....

Steve

A tricky tool...
I suspect the best way to make this tool would be by breaching - either with a purpose made toothed broach on a press, or Rota broaching in a lathe.
The broaching tool would not be difficult to make, if I understand correctly. You would start with a 17mm diameter and mill or grind two 1mm deep flats....
The press broach should probably start off as a tapered length going from 15mm to 17mm, maybe turn the profile of the cutting edges with a gullet base just below 15mm dia. Then mill or grind the flat sides. Then harden and temper.
The length would be determined by the DOC of each tooth pair multiplies by the number of teeth to make a total removal of 1mm per side. That in turn would depend on the press.
For building and using a rota broach, google it. Not too complex either.

Cheers,
Joe

Originally Posted by Sterob

Thanks Michael...That might be a better option.If I can find some 1 mm material I can cut two small pieces to fit over two of the flats.
Will see if I can find a sacrificial 17 mm socket.....

Steve

Steve, I don't think Michael was talking about a 17mm socket: He suggested to "make" a socket with 17mm diameter ID...

Cheers,
Joe

I may be missing the point, but why can't you just use an adjustable shifter on the two flats on each unit ?

Rob

Originally Posted by jhovel

Steve, I don't think Michael was talking about a 17mm socket: He suggested to "make" a socket with 17mm diameter ID...

Cheers,
Joe

Yes - I think a socket will just be too hard

Originally Posted by nearnexus

I may be missing the point, but why can't you just use an adjustable shifter on the two flats on each unit ?

Rob

Not enough room for the sides of the spanner I think

Michael

Originally Posted by nearnexus

I may be missing the point, but why can't you just use an adjustable shifter on the two flats on each unit ?

Rob

Not enough room. The best I can do is use the very tips of the spanner and use it vertically. It damages the flats and I can't get the torque to undo it.

Start with a piece of say 1" dia bar 2" long in your mill vice, mill a slot 15 wide and 17-18 long in one end, turn over and mill 2 flats on the outside at the other end to grip with any ole spanner?

I think Andrew has the best idea, if it was mine I would do as he suggests but I would add a steel tube around the end to help centralize the spanner, to stop it sliding off and to prevent the legs from spreading. It only needs to have a wall thickness of about 1 mm & there looks to be plenty of clearance for that. It could be welded, soft soldered, silver soldered or a press fit. On the other end I would put something hex so that a ring spanner or socket could be used. It could be a piece of hex bar or a coupling nut. Just my 2 cents worth.
tinkera

Sorry, I just read Andrews post again & now realize he meant to pocket the 1" rod, I would start with 17mm rod & mill the slot right across.
tinkera

Yeah, but by pocketing the legs cant spread. The hex bar is a winner though, start with 24mm and half the work is done.

Originally Posted by tinkera

I think Andrew has the best idea, if it was mine I would do as he suggests but I would add a steel tube around the end to help centralize the spanner, to stop it sliding off and to prevent the legs from spreading. It only needs to have a wall thickness of about 1 mm & there looks to be plenty of clearance for that. It could be welded, soft soldered, silver soldered or a press fit. On the other end I would put something hex so that a ring spanner or socket could be used. It could be a piece of hex bar or a coupling nut. Just my 2 cents worth.
tinkera

Sorry, I just read Andrews post again & now realize he meant to pocket the 1" rod, I would start with 17mm rod & mill the slot right across.
tinkera

Yeah, that will work as well.
I think I will try the easiest way first....fit two 1 mm shims inside a 17 mm socket and see how that goes. That should be the quickest to try.
I had a play with autosketch and it looks like it will work ok.
ABS Tool.jpg

If not, I will try Andrews idea.

Thanks again chaps....


Steve

Hi Andrew, You are right,I just jumped right in, didn't give enough thought before I posted. Do you mean to start with hex bar?
tinkera

Originally Posted by tinkera

Hi Andrew, You are right,I just jumped right in, didn't give enough thought before I posted. Do you mean to start with hex bar?
tinkera

I do now, but didnt until i read your post!

Teamwork!

Edit: shims inside a bigger socket work too, got me out of trouble just last week.