Thread: Toolholder and Collet Storage

Originally Posted by krisfarm

Greg,
I live right on the water's edge, my backyard is the Richmond River at Ballina. I have found it best to wrap/store all tooling in oiled plastic containers and leave a film of oil on all machined surfaces on my machines and then nothing rusts. Trying my luck fishing.
Bob

I live on the water's edge in Tasmania and nothing rusts. Prevailing winds are SW through to NW and go over the top of my place. Steel ground back to bare shiny metal is still shiny 2 years later.

Coming from Sydney where *everything* used to rust all the time, I love it.

As for storage, I work on the coefficient of friction vs gravity storage principle.

PDW

I just cut some poly pipe to size,and glued them in the box and they seem to be the answer, if you dont want to make some thing elaborate when the lid is closed, they are safe from dirt and the dreaded rust,cheap and easy.




Eddie

Bob,
I have no idea what the two holes are for, does your collection of catalogues give any clues? I have two other Starrett verniers a 12" and 14" and they do not have holes.
Dave,
The ladder is for easy entry into my fishing boat -tinnie which is just out of shot to the right in that photo on a ramp. I made the ladder so that I could just slot it into position along the front of the deck and can remove it when not in use as the river gets lots of trees etc in it after a good lot of rain. It is a great spot when the weather is good so far this year that has not been too often.
TKO,
That is a neat idea for your storage, nice and easy to get at and dust swarf proof. If you were to add a small container with an oil soaked cloth in it the fumes from it with the lid closed would ensure that the collett's stay rust free.
Bob

Originally Posted by krisfarm

Bob,
I have no idea what the two holes are for, does your collection of catalogues give any clues? I have two other Starrett verniers a 12" and 14" and they do not have holes.

Bob

Hello Bob,

I had a look in the '56 Etalon catalogue and whilst there are no illustrations of the rear of the verniers there is also no comment about additional holes. I checked my watched and ended items and the current Ebay listings but couldn't find the other perforated vernier.

Bob.

Hi Bob,
The only thing I could think it could be and it is a bit of a long shot is to be able to readily identify if the verniers are imperial or metric. I think mine are imperial as you have to add .300" on when taking internal measurements or add 7.62mm. I would think metric sets would have a whole number sized metric jaws to save the matermatical gymnastics .What do you think and are yours metric?
Bob

With regard to the holes in the back of the calipers, I'm wondering whether they could be tooling holes. For those unfamilar with this term, tooling holes are put in (mass produced) metal parts so that they can be located in jigs & fixtures easily for subsequent operations. In this case, a couple of dowels on a jig and a swing clamp and the part should locate very accurately so that (for example) measuring marks can be scribed on or perhaps so the jaw can be ground accurately.
Far more common for sheet metal parts (cars and white goods) but I can see that if you were making 1000's of calipers it may be something to consider.

Michael

Michael G,
The search for the unexplained holes- continues.
If the holes are tooling holes-they maybe, but why are they only in some sets and not all. BT Bob has seen other sets of the same makers vernier including his own that do not have the holes.
Bob

Originally Posted by krisfarm

Michael G,
The search for the unexplained holes- continues.
If the holes are tooling holes-they maybe, but why are they only in some sets and not all. BT Bob has seen other sets of the same makers vernier including his own that do not have the holes.
Bob

I had forgotten about the holes in this Roch Even more puzzlement.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/un...0/#post1345563

Bob.

Dear all,
I thought I would share this axa toolholder rack I completed today:

It was made from some 9.4mm diameter bright steel bar recently repurposed from a canon printer, some 4mm stainless bar (rod), and one of the last pieces of reject flooring from Studley all those years ago.
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The first step was to make a jig using 30mm hex stock (so that it can be held in the drill press vice) to ensure that the 4.5mm cross holes are all 6mm from the end. The rod was pushed to the end and then drilled using the drill press. The lathe was used to cut the standoff to 32mm using another jig; the jig was cut and faced to be 32mm long and the rod was pushed to the end of the jig and a plastic gear (that was originally a tight fit on the rod in the printer) pushed up to the end of the jig. The standoff was put into an ER32 10mm collet so that the plastic gear butted up to the 2mm cutoff tool and then parted.
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The second spacer cut to 16mm together with a 2mm washer (as I forgot to add the 2mm width of the cutoff tool) was used to set the plastic gear against the cutoff tool again and the diameter was reduced to 5.5mm to act as thread relief. The bottom section of the standoff was now turned to 6mm and threaded using a tailstock threading attachment. The standoffs at either end were drilled and had a 3mm grub screw to lock the stainless rod in place.
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The floorboard was resawn to 12mm using the bandsaw and then planned and sanded before finishing with 2 coats of a poly/tung oil blend.

Apologies for the c#*p photographs (the light was not good in the shed as it was late in the day) and the general mess in the shed (I tell people that I have been burgled!).

Regards

Mike