Thread: TOS Chuck Runout

I checked my 6" Bison and it's the same run-out as your TOS, .001" TIR measured on a bit of 1" diameter drill rod.

Interestingly my 8" Fuerda 3-jaw shows the same level of TIR. There must be good Chinese chucks and not-so-good Chinese chucks and I seemed to have got one of the better examples of the breed.

Bob, since talking to you about this I finished mounting my chuck and measured the runout accurately on some 10 or 12 mm silver steel rod. The dti was setup to be correctly reading using a Compac DTI with 0.002 mm per division. The needle barely moves! I'll be conservative and call it 1/2 a division or 0.001 mm runout, but the reality is it's actually even less than that.

I have precisely the same size and model as you and to say I'm impressed is an understatement. The specs suggest the total runout is less than 0.025 through it's range so it's all worked out much better than I could ever possibly have hoped.

Very happy camper right now as it will mean I don't need to swap chucks/collets as much as I used to.

Pete

Pete,

I might be able to improve on my sloppy one thou. When I made the chuck back plate it was for my 1959 Model A. I did not have the ARL. Ideally, the backplate should be fitted to the lathe the chuck is intended for. I swap them from lathe to lathe. I'm not going to push my luck if it's something critical. In that case I'd stick with one lathe.

Is the Compac a DTI or a dial indicator? I need another dial indicator to match the orphan on my mill. Ha Ha.

BT

It will be fun to finally get my lathe running (soon I hope). I bought a Russian chuck from an ebay seller last year...It was new/old stock from the 80's, probably about six years before the wall crumbled. It has a cert claiming 0.005mm runout. I'm looking forward to using it, but not to lifting it. It seems the Russians never faced a problem that more cast iron couldn't cure. Of course I have to make a back plate for it, and for my others. The old P-B 3-jaw that came with it is being moved to the welding table.

G.

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Pete,

I might be able to improve on my sloppy one thou. When I made the chuck back plate it was for my 1959 Model A. I did not have the ARL. Ideally, the backplate should be fitted to the lathe the chuck is intended for. I swap them from lathe to lathe. I'm not going to push my luck if it's something critical. In that case I'd stick with one lathe.

Is the Compac a DTI or a dial indicator? I need another dial indicator to match the orphan on my mill. Ha Ha.

BT

Yes the backplate should always belong to the one chuck, though they can typically be machined down 4 times or so before they get too thin.

The Compac is a 215 DTI, I think I got it from USbay as I recall. Used but in good condition. They don't seem to come up all that often, shame because you'll be bidding against me if you want another one!

A friend of mine bought a Compac on ebay for $5 because it was listed as faulty. Her had it shipped directly to Long Island Indicator who basically made it new again for $100. Not a bad deal for a like-new, calibrated and certified indicator.

I on the other hand still have a Carl Mahr/Haimer/Interapid/Tesa/Etalon fetish. I have a bloke in Switzerland who sells Compac from time to time. I'll alert you when his next batch gets listed.

GQ

This should roll up soon, hopefully. If not, it's 17 quid down the trough. Bit less than a newy.

Score! I do like the funky old-school dials of the Mahr indicators, in both millimess and zentreimess flavours.

My third one cost $5. (!) In a fit of guilt I gave it to my Rivett 608 friend. Nice indicators to be sure.

I'd bid on a 1um Millimess and got nailed in the last 2 seconds. It went for 56 bucks. The seller then offered me another one for the same price. Naturally I snapped up the offer. The one pictured in the auction had a perfect yellow dial face. The one that arrived in the mail had a go - no go zone marked poorly with a blunt blue marker on it's pretty little face.

All I could do was try to remove the jarring artwork. I used a cotton bud with some of that citrus De-Solv-It. Worked really well. Removed the blue ink along with the "O". Spent half an hour at work the next day looking ( in vain) for the same size and font O in a stash of old Letraset.

Letraset. Sigh. That stuff turned me into a hero back in the 70's and 80's among non-graphics aware employers. I bought some decal printer paper recently. You can print out any old thing on it: instant water-transfer decals.

I bought a 1µ indicator some time ago that is almost useless given its crazy sensitivity and tiny range. Its a Carey...one more obscure Swiss tool house.

GQ, After reassembling the Millimess I thought I'd check the accuracy of the spindle in the Schaublin dividing head. Nary a flicker of needle movement in a revolution of that spindle.

I reckon I'd need the thing if ever I had to tamper with the either the horizontal or vertical spindle assembly on the 13.

Ken mentioned decals in a Hercus vise discussion last night. Can you be more specific about the instant water tranfer decals? Takes me back to Airfix models as a kid and rego stickers when I'd grown up a bit.

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

I'd bid on a 1um Millimess and got nailed in the last 2 seconds. It went for 56 bucks. The seller then offered me another one for the same price. Naturally I snapped up the offer. The one pictured in the auction had a perfect yellow dial face. The one that arrived in the mail had a go - no go zone marked poorly with a blunt blue marker on it's pretty little face.

How do you say ... Shill Bidder! It wasn't a guy in Israel was it by chance? Well Israel/New York, apparently one and the same to some.

Nice score just the same. I missed out on one too, about the same price, but it went to some guy in the US (it was in Oz).

Pete

Gregory mentioned his fondness for high end Euro metrological instruments.

A couple of years ago, my wife and I were staying with good friends in Box Hill. During our short time in Melbourne I had wanted to make the trek out to the Tool Exchange in Niddrie. I had been there a couple of times before via a tram from the city and a long walk along Keilor Road. Managed to get out there on the last day of our short visit. What a place. There's a bit too much to take in. What I did take in was a pristine looking 12"/300mm Etalon vernier caliper complete in it's wooden case. Initially I thought that it was too good to be true and I'd turn it over to find some crudely scratched or gouged name marring the perfectly finished stainless steel. Nothing, absolutely flawless. Here's the best part. It had a $85 price sticker. I couldn't get the cash out quick enough. When I went to pay I was told " that's on sale, 50% off"

BT

You know, I haven't been in that joint in ten years I betcha. I must make a point of calling in more frequently apparently

While I really like European gear, I also really like a bargain. I bought both of my Mahrs for $20 buy-it-now. One was new.

Speaking of Israel, I bought a Taylor Hobson Talyvel cheap from one of those sellers. I still don't have a power supply for it, so maybe I got hosed after all. A couple of weeks ago I bought a vibratory tumbler from Jerusalem, Israel. Strangely, it came from the Jerusalem tool company in China None of those good Holy Land vibrations for me