Thread: TOS shaper

Originally Posted by Bryan

I told myself I wasn't going to pull it to bits, but I think you're right. There's certainly some galling on the ways, and the oil tank is empty. I guess no-one at Gippsland Group Training cared enough to put oil in and push the lever. (It has their sticker on it.) So I'll be checking things out as you suggest. At least the gearbox appears to have oil in it.

Mine has a bit of wear and some galling as well, I think of the galling as oil pockets,lol

I think this problem comes from the way shapers can run unattended, so people don't bother hanging around giving them a few drops of oil now and then when their running.
Everything else seems to keep going without to much wear, but the ram cops the most.
For us hobby guys the wear or galling wont bother us, if it's worn that much it's not true with the table, just take a cut off the table and it will be parallel again.

Dave

I'm slowly working my way into the innards of the TOS. Reading between the lines as it were, I think what has happened is this:

Some genius has put the Wrong Stuff in the oil reservoir. Maybe a solvent because it's attacked the plastic sight window, and melted the red primer. The resulting spooge has clogged the oil pickup. The machine has been run dry and damage has been done. Probably someone twigged, pulled the plug and it's sat ever since.

I'll wait till I've done a full assessment before reporting on the damage. That could be a week or so. But I wouldn't get too envious just yet Dave.

Originally Posted by Bryan

I'm slowly working my way into the innards of the TOS. Reading between the lines as it were, I think what has happened is this:

Some genius has put the Wrong Stuff in the oil reservoir. Maybe a solvent because it's attacked the plastic sight window, and melted the red primer. The resulting spooge has clogged the oil pickup. The machine has been run dry and damage has been done. Probably someone twigged, pulled the plug and it's sat ever since.

I'll wait till I've done a full assessment before reporting on the damage. That could be a week or so. But I wouldn't get too envious just yet Dave.

I wouldn't worry to much about it Bryan, for home shop use it probably has many thousands of hours left in it as is. It's not like it will be running 8-16 hours every day of the week. I doubt there are many shapers around without any wear or damage.
If you find raised metal just use a dull fine file to take it down or a oil stone, like I said previously any gailing will act like oil pockets.
It might be worth while to take a few photo's and send them to the company you bought it from to see if they come to the party at all, you never know and I think it would be worth a try to see.

Dave

A few progress pics.

A big dirty hole:


Broken feed gear. I have the missing piece. Think I'll ask the local tractor-fixer to braze it back on. There's no real load on it.


Main shaft & bearings are ok. Phew.



Crank pin & sliding block. Shouldn't be a drama to rebush undersize.


This is the sliding block and it's mating surface on the thrust side of the yoke. I could reverse the block as the other side is good, but don't know if I should because the yoke will still be rough. Would appreciate advice about this.


That's all for now. I don't have any good pics of the way damage. Can't do much about it anyway.

Don't you just hate when people neglect machines like that.
At least your doing the right thing going through it.

With the gear I have seen many repair's done to them by drilling into the broken part of the tooth and pinning it, side by side. Then after they are in file/grind them to shape, it would probably be stronger than brazing.
It's up to you if you have the time, but I would just run the crank pin & sliding block, as long as it's oiled or grease it should last a long time. At the worst it will only make a little clicking sound, but other noises will probably drown it out.
I would turn the sliding block around if you can. Smooth out the bad side with some emory laid on something flat and only take enough off to take out the highs. Again it will last many years to come.

Dave

What's the go with those little blind rivets that hold nameplates on? How do you remove them? How do you install them? Where do you get them?

Any paint from 1959 is going to be enamel, yes? If so does that mean I have to use enamel over it?

I'm not really in the mood for a resto - I'd rather be making things. But it seems dumb to have it stripped this far and not paint it. The blue is really awful up close.

Dave, what would you use for pins on the gear tooth? They would have to be small so something tough. Would roll pins be any good?

Regarding the wear on the con rod and trunnion block:
A possible fix might be to have the slot surfaces reground to remove the scoring, and make a new block oversized to suit. If the whole block were made from bronze, it wouldn't need to be bushed.
So, what sort of grinder would be able to do the inner surfaces of the slotted con rod - maybe a toolpost grinder with internal grinding wheel, mounted on some sort of slideway?

Jordan

They should be U drive pins.

Usually removed by holding the Head and Turning,they are normally R/H.

If you measure the End of the Pin it will be a Smaller dia than the Screwed section,this will be the drill diameter.

Where to purchase,any good industrial supplier,not sure if they will sell single units,if not should be able to get in boxes of 100/500/1000 depending on the size you need.

In regards to the Sliding block you could allways machine it down on the damaged side and replace the removed area with a Bronzr or Brass wear plate.

In regards to the conrod you could either machine it on a Mill or Shaper,the amount of material you would be removing would be reasonably small so compensateing for the increase in width you could put a wear strip on either side of the conecting block.

+1 on the drive pins. I have carefully centre punched them and then drilled them out. Others have slotted them with a dremel and unscrewed them.
I found a pack of 200 on ebay, but they are steel. Installed with a hammer.

Greg

Bryan What size is the head on the rivets? I have a few but I doubt they are big enough for you.
Stuart

Stuart, the heads measure anywhere from 3.65 - 3.9 mm. I had one try at the slotting method but couldn't turn it. I'm a bit scared to keep trying as there's so little to get hold of. I might chicken out and paint around them.

Pipeclay, Jordan, machining the yoke/conrod/rocker/whatever it's called sounds expensive, since I couldn't do it (my shaper's in bits remember?). My idea was to fit a full length wear plate, and resize the block accordingly. It could just be faced in the lathe. The plate would be bronze or brass, maybe 1.6 or 2mm thick? And folded around the sides and riveted or screwed in place. That was how I saw it anyway. The folding would have to not distort the sheet. Probably worth getting a sheety to do it. I would just clamp it in place with a block of wood and drift the edges around. But that's so easy it's bound to be wrong.

Sorry bryan the heads on my ones are 3mm.
You could grind the heads off and then drill them out if you need to.

Stuart

Bryan be careful if you attempt tp dill them,they will be hard/tough.

If they do have to be removed and if there is sufficent room to move the plate,drill new holes and use new drives,you would have to chiesel them off if you cant unscrew them.try a pair of vicegrips on the head or even a small chiesel under the head may cause them to lift enough to then be able to unscrew them.

In regards to your repair of the Slideing block I would steer clear of trying to wrap something around it,you would be better off machining as much off the damaged face as needed and then screwing a piece of Brass/Bronze onto the machined face,and then machine back to size,and then re-cut the oil grooves.

Drive pins are often fitted in holes that go all the way through a casting. The easiest way to remove then is to punch them out from behind.
Otherwise, if you can't get a grip on the head, Pipeclay's chisel suggestion might be resorted to. I grind up a piece of 1/4 x 1/4 HSS into a nice sharp edge, just a bit wider than the pin's head. Tapped with a small hammer just under the drive pin's head it does minimal damage to the info plate. When there's a small gap, side cutters or pincers can be used to grab the pin and lever it out. Pincers can be ground so they can get under the slightest of gaps, by removing the small lead bevel on the jaws.

Jordan